The vastitude of vegetables

THE VASTITUDE OF VEGETABLES

By Sidney Carlisle

In other words, there are lots of them and they're good for you.

Your mother fussed about your needing to eat broccoli. Popeye was a wimp without a healthy wallop of spinach. And those vision-enhancing carrots helped Bugs Bunny stay out of the path of that pesky hunter, Elmer Fudd. We’ve been hearing it since we were children: Eat your vegetables. So why is it so hard for us to do?

For many of us, our go-go lifestyles make it hard to implement. Or we ignore the healthy benefits because of taste preferences or a natural resistance to trying vegetables outside of the norm. But if a low-fat diet truly reduces the risk of heart disease, isn’t that extra effort worth it? Study by study, researchers are uncovering the fact that what we eat — or refuse to eat — may also affect our risk for cancer and diseases such as diabetes, stroke, and diverticular ailments.

The USDA's Food Guide Pyramid recommends three to five servings of vegetables, two to four servings of fruit, and six to 11 servings of grains (breads, cereals, pasta, and rice) each day. But folks who say they adhere to these recommendations usually are one of two things: a vegetarian or an accomplished teller of tall tales.

The word vegetable doesn’t have to summon visions of bland green beans served on a banquet menu. Associate Club chefs serve a multitude of sensational vegetable dishes, working diligently to develop recipes using trendy and tasty vegetables. Treated to a special combination of herbs and spices, even familiar vegetables can become zesty creations, full of flavor — and, yes, good for you, too.

For example, executive chef Chris Baggett of Knollwood Country Club in South Bend, Indiana, is renowned for making some mean steak fries. Yet members are now discovering his scrumptious vegetable medley of cauliflower, carrots, broccoli, and zucchini, seasoned with fresh herbs. He’ll serve it with any entrée, even a cheeseburger.

Located near the University of Notre Dame, Knollwood is drawing some younger members to the club, and Chef Baggett says this youthful generation consists of adventuresome diners who enjoy trying new menu items. His Marinated Vegetable Tian (see recipe below) has become a favorite vegetarian entrée. Tasty and colorful, it’s practically a poster dish for the infamous USDA Pyramid.

Creative vegetable dishes also are popular at the Pyramid Club in Philadelphia where members love executive chef Don Sanders’ Zucchini Latkes. His jazzy vegetable repertoire includes a sautéed spinach dish with pine nuts and a grilled eggplant with leeks. Both are popular side dishes.

Executive chef Tim Durand serves one of his favorite vegetable dishes for Nine ’N Dine Night (nine holes of golf and dinner) at the Aspen Glen Club in Carbondale, Colorado. The chef combines baby squash and baby zucchini with whatever seasonal vegetables are on hand, creating a healthy side dish that is different each time it’s served.

Just what is a vegetable? The term has been picked to death. Peas and beans are legumes. Tomatoes are actually fruits, and corn is a grain. From a nutritional standpoint, there’s no need to split hairs over the category. Truth is, eating more vegetables, regardless of the botanical variety, counts toward a healthier you. And with inventive recipes such as the ones that follow, that’s nowhere near the painful proposition we experienced as children.

Although a fan of almost every vegetable, food writer Sidney Carlisle draws the line at turnip greens.

MARINATED VEGETABLE TIAN WITH ROSEMARY BASMATI RICE
This dramatic entrée (pictured on the previous page) from executive chef Chris Baggett at Knollwood Country Club in South Bend, Indiana, serves two. The dense texture of the portobello mushrooms contrasts nicely with the grilled vegetables.

4 portobello mushrooms
1 small zucchini squash
1 small yellow squash
1 medium red onion, peeled
1/2 of a medium red bell pepper
1/2 of a medium yellow bell pepper
1/2 of a medium green bell pepper
2 cups low-fat or fat-free Italian salad dressing
2 rosemary stalks

Rosemary Basmati Rice (recipe follows)
Gently wipe the mushrooms with a damp paper towel and set them aside to dry. Slice the zucchini and yellow squash in half lengthwise. Cut a thin strip off the outside of each piece so the squash is flat. Cut the onion in half, separate into pieces, and discard center pieces. Cut each piece of pepper in half lengthwise, removing and discarding the seeds and rough ends. Trim the vegetables if necessary so they are all about the same length as the mushrooms. Marinate the mushrooms and all of the vegetables in the salad dressing for 30 minutes.

Remove the ingredients from the marinade and place on a hot grill or broiler. Grill or broil 3 to 5 minutes on each side, until just fork-tender. Do not allow the peppers to blacken.

Beginning with one mushroom, stem side up, stack half of the vegetables one on top of the other, ending with a mushroom. Use a rosemary stalk to skewer through the vegetables to hold the stack together. Repeat with the remaining two mushrooms and the rest of the vegetables.

Serve the tian in a shallow dish or a pasta bowl over a bed of Rosemary Basmati Rice.

ROSEMARY BASMATI RICE

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped garlic
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 cup basmati rice
2 1/2 cups chicken stock or broth
salt and pepper

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and rosemary, and cook until the garlic is golden brown. Add the rice and chicken stock and bring the mixture to a boil. Cover and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook 8 to 10 minutes or until the rice is tender. Salt and pepper to taste.

ARTICHOKE AND BLACK OLIVE PIZZA
This veggie pizza from the author’s kitchen will surprise even the most die-hard pepperoni fans. Use fresh mozzarella cheese, if at all possible.

1 prebaked pizza crust (12 or 14 inches)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 can (14 ounces) artichoke hearts packed in water, drained
2 large tomatoes, seeded and diced
10 large black olives, pitted and cut into thirds
salt and pepper
8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, shredded or cut in thin quarter-size pieces
10 fresh basil leaves, cut into dime-size pieces

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees or follow the directions specified for your pizza pan or pizza stone. Use a pastry brush to coat the pizza crust lightly with the olive oil. Cut the artichoke hearts into thirds or quarters and scatter the pieces over the crust. Add the tomatoes and the olives. Salt and pepper the pizza generously.

Bake the pizza 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and arrange the cheese over the vegetables. Bake an additional 5 to 8 minutes, until the cheese has melted. Remove the pizza from the oven and cool about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the basil and serve immediately.

GRILLED VEGETABLE LASAGNA WITH PLUM TOMATO SAUCE
Executive chef Tim Durand of the Aspen Glen Club in Carbondale, Colorado, uses an assortment of fresh vegetables and mushrooms to create this outstanding lasagna. The chef recommends preparing the tomato sauce and the ricotta sauce first. While the tomato sauce is simmering, begin assembling the other ingredients.

2 zucchini squash
2 yellow squash
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
4 ounces button or shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1 red bell pepper
1 red onion, diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
10 ounces fresh spinach, washed and stems removed
Plum Tomato Sauce (recipe follows)
6 lasagna noodles, uncooked

Ricotta Cheese Sauce (recipe follows)

8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, shredded or cut in thin quarter-size pieces
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup water

Cut the zucchini and yellow squash into 1/4-inch rings. Sprinkle with balsamic vinegar and toss with a fork to distribute the vinegar. Place on a preheated grill and cook just until fork-tender. (If no grill is available, the squash may be cooked under a hot broiler.)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with non-stick spray and set it aside.

Using a large sauté pan, sauté the mushrooms, bell pepper, and onion in the olive oil for 3 minutes. Add the spinach and cook 1 to 2 minutes, or until just wilted. Drain and discard any accumulated liquid.

To assemble, spread one cup of the tomato sauce on the bottom of the baking dish. Lay 3 lasagna noodles over the sauce. Place half of the grilled squash on top of the noodles and add half of the spinach mixture. Spoon half the ricotta sauce over the squash, using a knife or icing spatula to smooth. (The sauce layer will be thin.) Add about a third of the mozzarella cheese.

Repeat the layers using one cup of the tomato sauce, the remaining 3 noodles, the remaining squash and spinach, and the rest of the ricotta sauce. Spoon on the last of the tomato sauce. Scatter the rest of the mozzarella cheese over the tomato sauce. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. Pour water around the sides of the lasagna.

Cover with foil and bake 1 hour. Remove from the oven, uncover, and let stand 10 minutes before serving.

Yield: 8 servings.

PLUM TOMATO SAUCE

2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup chopped onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 anchovy fillet, minced
1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup loosely packed basil leaves, cut in half
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 cans (14 ounces) whole peeled plum tomatoes
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt

Sauté the garlic and onion in olive oil for 3 minutes. Add the anchovy, pepper flakes, and black pepper. Cook 2 minutes. Add the basil leaves, bay leaf, Parmesan cheese, tomatoes, sugar, and salt, blending well. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove the sauce from the heat. Discard the bay leaf. Use a whisk to break up some of the tomatoes and set the sauce aside.

RICOTTA CHEESE SAUCE

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 1/2 cups milk
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 pinch nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup ricotta cheese

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. Add the flour, stirring until smooth. Whisk in the milk and bring just to a boil. Add the basil, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Reduce the heat to the lowest level and cook 10 minutes, stirring often. Remove from the heat and cool to lukewarm.

Whisk in the ricotta cheese and set aside until the lasagna is ready to assemble. The mixture will be very thick when cooled.

CHILLED PEAR AND RED PEPPER SOUP
A light entrée from executive chef Don Sanders of the Pyramid Club in Philadelphia. The chef recommends a green salad and French or Italian bread to complement the flavor of the roasted red peppers.

1 1/2 pounds roasted red peppers, cleaned, seeded, and diced (see note)
2 1/2 pounds ripe pears, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced (use any ripe pear in season)
1 tablespoon chopped shallots
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
salt and white pepper
low-fat plain yogurt
snipped chives, for garnish

Place the diced peppers, pear slices, shallots, and ginger in a blender. Add the orange juice and purée until smooth. (If the pears are not juicy, the soup may seem very thick. Add another tablespoon or two of orange juice if needed to thin the mixture.) Add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate the mixture for at least 2 hours to allow the flavors to blend.

To serve, portion into four soup bowls. Add a generous dollop of low-fat plain yogurt and garnish with freshly snipped chives.

Note: Red peppers may be roasted at home under a hot broiler. Cut the peppers into quarters, discarding stem, seeds, and membrane. Place the peppers on a baking sheet, skin side up, and roast until the skin is wrinkled and beginning to darken. Remove from the oven and place on a paper towel inside a large plastic food storage bag. Cool the peppers slightly and remove the peeling. It’s an easier task if the peppers are roasted one or two at a time rather than all at once.

THE CHEFS SAY:

Overcooked vegetables lose part of their vitamin A. Cook just until crisp-tender and serve raw when possible. (Brussels sprouts, one of the least-liked veggies, is almost always cooked too long, altering the way the vegetable should taste.)
Visit a farmer’s market or Asian market. Buy what’s fresh and seasonal. Don’t be afraid to try a vegetable that’s new to you.
Quit peeling carrots, potatoes, squash, and eggplant. The peeling contains vital nutrients. Experiment with herbs and seasonings to wake up plain vegetables.
Invest in a vegetable cookbook. Current books contain cooking directions for most “new” vegetables and recipes to inspire you to eat them.
Almost any recipe for stir-fry, pizza, pasta, soup, or a casserole can be prepared sans meat.

VEGGIES vs. DISEASE
The lowdown
Articles on diet and disease contain words that can be confusing. Here’s a short list of “health-speak” terms and what they mean, along with the appropriate vegetables.

ANTIOXIDANTS: Our bodies burn oxygen, a process that releases unstable molecules known as free radicals. These free radicals can damage the DNA of healthy cells, causing cancer and other diseases. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals. Vitamins A, C, and E are natural antioxidants found in leafy greens and other vegetables. In addition, researchers believe vitamin E reduces the tendency to form blood clots. Broccoli, brussels sprouts, kale, spinach, sweet red peppers, Swiss chard, watercress.

BETA-CAROTENE: Our bodies naturally convert beta-carotene into vitamin A. Studies indicate a lower risk of cancers of the lungs, stomach, and mouth in persons consuming a diet rich in beta-carotene. Broccoli, carrots, sweet potatoes, watercress, and dark green leafy vegetables including arugula, kale, spinach, turnip greens.

BIOFLAVONOIDS: The brightly colored pigments of vegetables and fruits contain bioflavonoids. Preliminary research indicates bioflavonoids may have antioxidant abilities, are natural clot inhibitors, and have the ability to stop, or at least slow the growth of cancer cells. Broccoli, kohlrabi, green and red peppers, tomatoes.

CRUCIFEROUS VEGETABLES: Cruciferous vegetables contain natural compounds that researchers believe can protect against cancer. Diets rich in cruciferous vegetables indicate a lower incidence of cancers of the respiratory system and digestive tract. Broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, rutabagas, turnips, watercress.

FIBER: Studies consistently show that people who eat fiber-rich foods have a lower risk of colon cancers. In addition, a diet high in fiber can help lower cholesterol levels. Artichokes, asparagus, beets, cabbage, carrots, okra, parsnips, potatoes.

FOLATE: One of the B vitamins, folate (folic acid) is believed to reduce the chances of heart disease and stroke. The body also needs folate to produce red blood cells. Asparagus, beans, beets, broccoli, spinach.

LYCOPENE: Technically a bioflavonoid, lycopene is a natural substance many researchers believe to be effective in reducing the chance of prostate cancer. Some studies also indicate lycopene may reduce the risk of digestive tract cancers. Found in tomatoes and some fruits, the health benefits seem to increase when the food products are cooked. Tomatoes.

PLANT CHEMICALS: Nature supplies these substances, called phytochemicals. Studies show they have the ability to protect against cancer. The most familiar phytochemicals are lycopene and bioflavonoids, discussed above, and genistein, a chemical believed to keep tumors from growing. Vegetables from A to Z.

POTASSIUM: An essential mineral, potassium is termed an electrolyte. It helps regulate the fluid in the body, helps keep blood pressure at normal levels, and researchers believe it helps prevent strokes. Asparagus, broccoli, brussels sprouts, carrots, cauliflower, celery, potatoes, rhubarb, spinach.