THE BERRY BEST

THE BERRY BEST

By Sidney Carlisle

The return of fresh berries signals the arrival of summer.

One of my favorite portents of summer is the arrival of baskets of berries at farmers’ markets and roadside stands in late spring. These colorful containers of plump, juicy blueberries and raspberries beg to be taken home. Although berries are available nearly all year in grocery stores, there’s something special about baskets sold in the open air. Perhaps it’s the freshness of an outdoor market or the airy fragrance of just-picked berries. Whatever it is seems to signal the arrival of summer.

Fresh berries are enjoyed by almost everyone. Sure, some people like blackberries while others prefer strawberries, but most of us like one berry or another. Recipes for grunts, slumps, and cobblers, and for muffins, cakes, and pies have made good use of berries for hundreds of years. Preserves, jams, and jellies, once lovingly prepared by our mothers and grandmothers from whatever berries they could gather, are now produced by major companies. It’s good news in some ways since commercial production means we have access to berries grown far from home.

Armed only with faint childhood memories of picking strawberries in North Carolina and blackberries in Texas, I was determined to learn more about these tiny fruits. I knew nothing of huckleberries, would have flunked a quiz show question about loganberries, and found the differences in the berry families confusing. Mired almost immediately in Latin names, botanical explanations, and descriptions of leaf arrangements, I decided it was unimportant that strawberries were herbs, I just wanted shortcake.

Adding to the problem, it appeared that some berries carry folk names, and the same berries may have completely different names in Europe. I concentrated on what most of us consider to be berries — strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, and the like — ignoring the botanical implications. If it tasted good and ended in “berry,” it became a berry in my book, er, magazine.

There are a surprising number of berries available, especially if one considers not only fresh but frozen and canned varieties. Careful cultivation by growers has produced berries that freeze well, giving us an opportunity to enjoy our favorite recipes all year long. While not all berries may be canned successfully, some (such as gooseberries, black raspberries, and lingonberries) are rarely available in any other form.

Regardless of how we get them, we eat lots of berries. Packaged foods such as frozen waffles and turnovers, along with bread and muffin mixes, have increased our berry consumption. And although treasured family recipes remain popular, and cookbooks promote new berry dishes, many of us still find a bowl of blueberries and milk satisfying.

The recipes shared by Associate Club chefs on the following pages showcase the berries we love best and are suitable for both casual gatherings and more formal affairs. Different berries may be substituted in some cases — refer to the recipe notes and the berry descriptions for assistance.

Now, about that berries and milk idea — imagine vintage berry bowls and delicate silver berry spoons. Oh, and never mind the milk, let’s top them with whipped cream instead.

Sidney Carlisle insists the best fruit pie she’s ever eaten was made from olallieberries and served at a bakery in Paso Robles, California.

BLUEBERRY MUFFINS
These muffins from executive chef Albert Schnarwyler at The Homestead in Hot Springs, Virginia, are a treat for blueberry fans. The muffins are not too sweet and complement the natural flavor of the blueberries.

1/2 cup butter, softened
1 cup sugar
4 eggs, room temperature
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1 cup fresh blueberries
powdered sugar, optional

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Generously butter or grease a 12-cup muffin pan and set aside.

Combine the butter and sugar in mixer bowl. Beat on medium speed until the mixture is fluffy and the sugar has dissolved, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs and mix well.

In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture alternately with the milk, beginning with the flour. Gently fold in the blueberries, using a rubber spatula.

Spoon the batter into the muffin cups and bake in the center of the oven for 20-25 minutes. The muffins should be lightly browned and just begin to pull away from the edges of the pan when done. Turn the muffins out onto a serving plate, dust with powdered sugar if desired, and serve while hot.

DEEP DISH BLACKBERRY COBBLER
Bob Geller, executive chef at Indian Springs Country Club in Broken Arrow, Oklahoma, likes this cobbler topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

4 cups fresh blackberries or frozen unsweetened blackberries (see note)
1 1/3 cups plus 4 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 cup water
pastry strips (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons butter, melted

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Spray a 9x9-inch or 11x7-inch baking dish with non-stick spray and set it aside. Choose a dish deep enough (at least 2 1/2 inches) to keep the cobbler from boiling over in the oven.

Combine the blackberries, 1 1/3 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, and the water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Lower the heat and simmer 5 minutes. Stir gently to distribute the berries and pour half the fruit mixture into the baking dish. Arrange half the pastry strips over the fruit. Brush with half the melted butter and sprinkle with 2 teaspoons sugar. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until the pastry is lightly browned.

Remove the dish from the oven. Spoon the remaining fruit and juice over the baked pastry. Place the remaining pastry strips over the fruit, laying them in the opposite direction of the first pastry layer. Brush with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle with the remaining 2 teaspoons sugar.

Bake about 25 minutes, until the pastry is golden brown. Serve warm, if possible.

Yield: 8 servings.

Note: To use frozen blackberries, partially thaw the fruit. Combine the berries, sugar, butter, and water, stirring gently, and bring the mixture just to a boil. Remove from the heat and proceed as above.

PASTRY STRIPS

2 cups pastry or all-purpose flour
2/3 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup vegetable shortening
6 tablespoons (approximately) ice water

Combine the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Use a pastry blender or two knives to cut the shortening into the flour, working until the pieces are just smaller than peas. Add the ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, tossing with a fork to moisten the mixture. Use just enough water to hold the dough together. Shape into a rough ball and place on a piece of plastic wrap. Flatten slightly, wrap, and chill one hour.

Divide the dough in half. Roll the first half on a lightly floured surface and cut into 1-inch strips to fit the baking dish. Cover and chill the remaining dough while the cobbler bakes. Roll the second half of the dough into 1-inch strips and use as directed.

STRAWBERRY SORBET
Raymond Maranda, executive chef at the Heritage Club in Huntsville, Alabama, occasionally uses blackberries or raspberries for this sorbet. Prepare simple syrup first, as it must sit overnight.

1 container (16 ounces) fresh strawberries
1/3 cup fresh orange juice
1 1/4 cups simple syrup, chilled (recipe follows)

Gently rinse the strawberries and pat dry. Remove the hulls and thinly slice the berries.

Purée the strawberries in a blender with the orange juice. Add the cold simple syrup to the fruit and pulse to blend.

Freeze in an ice-cream maker, following manufacturer’s directions or see note below. To serve, allow the sorbet to stand at room temperature a few minutes. Use an ice-cream scoop to shape the sorbet and serve it in chilled glasses.

For raspberry or blackberry sorbet, purée the berries with the orange juice. Strain before adding the simple syrup, discarding the seeds.

Note: If an ice-cream maker is unavailable, the sorbet may be prepared by the freezer method. Pour the sorbet mixture into a square 9-inch baking pan and place in freezer. Chill until it begins to freeze (about an hour) and pour it into a bowl. Beat with a mixer until well blended. Return to the baking pan and the freezer. Repeat the process two more times, then freeze until firm.

SIMPLE SYRUP

1 cup water
3/4 cup sugar

Bring the water to a boil. Add the sugar, stirring until dissolved. Remove from the heat and refrigerate overnight.

QUICK TRICKSWITH BERRIES
Blackberry Sauce. Thaw frozen blackberries (32 ounces), reserving the juice. Combine 1/2 cup sugar and 1 teaspoon cornstarch in a saucepan and whisk in the berry juice. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and gently stir in the blackberries. Allow the sauce to cool at room temperature. Serve over vanilla ice cream or pound cake, or serve with game or game birds.

Strawberry Smoothie. In a blender, combine 1 cup frozen strawberries, 2/3 cup milk, and 2 tablespoons sugar. Mix until smooth. Add 4 small ice cubes or about 1/2 cup crushed ice and process again until smooth. Serve in a chilled glass, perfect for breakfast or a light summer dessert.

Chunky Raspberry Butter. Soften 2/3 cup butter and 1/3 cup margarine. Mash with a fork to blend the two. Add raspberry preserves to taste, blending with the fork. Leave the texture chunky and avoid overmixing. Cover and chill to blend flavors. Allow to stand a few minutes at room temperature before serving with hot biscuits or toasted English muffins. Any premium quality berry preserve may be used. The butter is especially good with strawberry, blackberry, or boysenberry preserves.

Blueberry Syrup. Rinse 2 cups fresh blueberries. Purée in a blender with 1/4 cup water. Place in a large saucepan with 3/4 cup water and 2 cups sugar. Bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Lower the heat, watch carefully, and simmer until translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Press through a strainer into a heatproof bowl, discarding the solids. Stir in 1/4 cup corn syrup, mixing well. Serve warm over waffles or pancakes. The syrup may be stored in the refrigerator, tightly covered, and reheated before serving.

Strawberry Shortcake Sauce. Rinse 2 cups fresh strawberries and dry on paper towels. Save a few berries for garnish. Hull the remaining berries and cut into thin slices. Blend 1 cup sweetened condensed milk into the strawberries, stirring to coat the fruit evenly. Add more milk to taste, using enough to bring the mixture to a sauce consistency without it becoming too runny. Cover and chill. To serve, spoon the strawberry sauce over shortcakes and top with sweetened whipped cream. Garnish with reserved berries.

BERRIES, BERRIES, AND MORE BERRIES
STRAWBERRIES are the most popular berries in the United States, with at least 70 varieties grown in this country. Growers are working to improve their quality and flavor. Driscoll’s, one of the largest growers, has spent years developing cultivars that are not only pretty, but taste good too.

One of the world’s most flavorful strawberries is also the most expensive. Alpine strawberries, also referred to as fraises des bois or wood strawberries, are considered the ultimate berries by many chefs. Small and fragrant, the berries are very sweet. They must be picked when ripe, since strawberries do not ripen after picking. Because the plants are not productive enough for large commercial operations and the demand exceeds the crop, alpine strawberries are likely to remain a specialty item in restaurants and markets.

Strawberries contain potassium and are an excellent source of vitamin C. They are high in fiber and low in calories.

When buying strawberries, look for containers with no moldy or crushed berries on the bottom. At home, discard the packaging and refrigerate the berries in a single layer for up to three days. For best results wait to wash and hull strawberries until ready to use.

BLACKBERRIES are grown in the United States from Maryland to Texas and on the West Coast. Appropriately referred to as “brambles,” along with their raspberry relatives, they are guaranteed to leave scratches on berry-patch visitors. For many Southerners, these berry patches provide the only opportunity for picking their own berries.

Blackberries are high in potassium, and provide a decent amount of vitamin C. They also are high in fiber, mainly because of their seeds. Growers continue to improve blackberries, searching for fat, juicy berries that taste good, resist mold, and ship well.

There are many blackberry hybrids, and depending on the variety they can be pleasingly sweet or surprisingly tart. While most recipes give exact amounts of sugar, it’s best to sugar sparingly, taste the dish, and add more sugar as needed.

BLUEBERRIES, not nearly as fragile as blackberries or raspberries, are still found growing wild (lowbush blueberries) and under cultivation (highbush blueberries). There are differences in the two and both have adamant fans. Small wild blueberries are found in Maine and Minnesota, some northern areas in between, and in Canada. Some people believe they contain more flavor than cultivated blueberries.

Unless the container is marked “wild,” blueberries found at grocery stores and farmers’ markets are cultivated. Hybrids are grown in Washington, Oregon, Michigan, New Jersey, North Carolina, and in parts of British Columbia. Larger and sweeter, these blueberries usually are available May through September. Imported berries are available, for a price, from September through early spring.

Blueberries are high in fiber but low in most other nutrients. Naturally sweet, however, they are delicious without any embellishments and require less sugar than some of the other berries. They also freeze well. Fresh blueberries should be refrigerated up to three days, and rinsed only when ready to use. Frozen berries should be rinsed before thawing and may be added to most recipes while still frozen.

RASPBERRIES, always popular as a red variety, are available in some areas in black, golden, and purple varieties. All are raspberries, with very slight differences; the goldens have a reputation of being the sweetest raspberries, the blacks have the most seeds, and the purple variety is actually a cross between black and red raspberries. Black raspberries, also called blackcaps or thimbleberries, usually are found only at farmers’ markets or fruit stands in the Mid-Atlantic states.

Raspberries aren’t cheap. They are costly because they mold and mildew rapidly after picking, usually in two or three days, and are tasteless if picked when green. Harvested ripe berries are hollow, and the stem and core remain on the stalk. If hulls are present in a basket of raspberries, it is a clear indication they were picked before they were ripe.

Raspberries freeze nicely, better than strawberries. Choose packages with loose berries that can be felt through the packaging. Big chunks are evidence the fruit thawed, at least partially, at some point. To freeze at home, spread unwashed berries on a baking sheet. Freeze until firm and drop into plastic freezer storage bags.

OTHER BERRIES include CRANBERRIES, grown in the northeastern United States. These are tart berries that must be sweetened, but they are inexpensive, low in calories, high in fiber, and freeze well. HUCKLEBERRIES resemble blueberries but are somewhat different botanically. They may be substituted for blueberries, but are difficult to find since wild huckleberries grow in only a few locations and the berries are not cultivated by growers. DEWBERRIES are a variety of blackberries and YOUNGBERRIES are hybrid blackberries. Both may be used in any blackberry recipe. LOGANBERRIES are a raspberry-blackberry hybrid. Although Judge J.H. Logan generally is regarded as the father of the loganberry (and named it accordingly), some questions exist as to its exact parentage. BOYSENBERRIES are a cross between raspberries, blackberries, and loganberries, and credit for this cultivar goes to Rudolph Boysen. OLALLIEBERRIES, a cross between loganberries and youngberries, look like blackberries. Developed at Oregon State University, they are grown mainly in California. GOOSEBERRIES, seldom found fresh in this country, are sold canned in some groceries. They are cultivated in Europe, along with CURRANTS, their berry relatives. LINGONBERRIES, also grown in Europe, are most common in the Scandinavian countries. Not as tart as their cranberry relatives, lingonberries are frequently used in preserves.