CLASSIC COCKTAILS
Equal parts quality and simplicity, with a dash of controversy.
Many great legacies are owed to the private club tradition: sport, philanthropy, architectural preservation. I have one to add — classic cocktails. Indeed, the ritual of proper cocktail service, with each drink meticulously hand-mixed before the guest, of only pristine ingredients (fresh-squeezed juices, immaculate ice cubes, perfect garnishes) was a private club invention. And some of the great drinks themselves were invented (or at least perfected) in clubs. As master sommelier for the World Trade Center Club, this tradition has special significance to me. As we mourn the losses in our club community, and those of our World Trade Center neighbors in New York, my many fond memories of sharing the tradition and hospitality of these classics with our club members are a comfort. I smile when I remember the beauty of the Manhattan sunset from the club, as our members gathered two autumns ago to judge and choose the “Best of” that eponymous cocktail. Our “Spirits in the Skybox” tastings, where our club members rolled up their sleeves to master the ins and outs of mixology, from Martinis to Margaritas, were legendary. Join me now on a brief cocktail safari to rediscover these classics. I bet you also will agree they’re a club tradition of which to be proud.
But first, what is a “classic” cocktail? My definition is this: equal parts quality and simplicity, plus a dash of controversy. The quality comes in the form of the drink’s spirit base, which must be one or more of the premium classic spirits, whether gin, vodka, rum, whiskey, tequila, or brandy. Sorry, but, trendy though they may be, Jägermeister and Sour Apple Pucker don’t qualify.
Second, every truly classic cocktail is a study in exquisite simplicity, both in recipe and presentation. To me, a laundry list of liquors and a garish garnish rarely yield a good drink — more likely, all that fluff is meant to hide a bad one. The true classics share in common a few pristine ingredients, simply handled (a shake, a stir) and flawlessly presented. Dale DeGroff, the master mixologist who taught our Skybox tutorials at the World Trade Center Club, cites an early formula for the cocktail, from a bartending book published in the 1800s: one of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, and four of weak.
As you’ll see from the drinks in the roster that follows, they were on to something. The sour might be a citrus such as orange juice or lime juice. Sweet could be simple syrup or a liqueur like Triple Sec. Strong is, of course, the main spirit. And weak could be a mixer like tonic or soda, but in the classics is just as often the water released by ice cubes as the drink is shaken or stirred.
Finally, there’s controversy. Who invented it? What’s in the name? What’s the “right” recipe? As with every American icon, the classic cocktails populate a slice of American history that swirls with lore, debate, credit, and blame — which is half the fun! Here is my short list of the best classic cocktails, and what you need to know when ordering them, or enjoying them at home.
THE MARTINI
To me, the genuine Martini (not so-called “Martinis” in candy-store
flavors like chocolate and sour apple) is the ultimate classic cocktail. It
is simplicity at its best: just two ingredients, easily mixed with just a
stir (yes, we’ll crack
that
controversy in a moment). In look, the Martini oozes sex appeal: the cling
of smoky frost as glasses emerge from the chiller, the curve of their stem,
the spirits’ liquid shimmer.
Here are the basics. Martinis are classically served “up,” which means the ingredients are chilled, by stirring, over ice, then strained into a chilled cocktail glass. On that note, I suggest you avoid drinking or serving Martinis and other classic cocktails in those macho, oversized Martini glasses. A great cocktail is about balance, and temperature is a critical factor. Aside from leaving you cross-eyed, the monster Martini glasses are so big they treat you to a warm, disgusting dishwater of a drink for at least half the sipping. As for ingredients, the real Martini takes London dry gin — Beefeater, Bombay, Boodles, and Tanqueray are all good ones — plus dry vermouth (French brands like Noilly Prat are considered the best). James Bond aside, stirring a Martini is proper form. This is not because it “bruises” the gin, as the saying goes, but because shaking introduces air into the drink, producing bubbles and a foamy “head” — but Martini-drinkers want flavor, not froth. Shaking also adds too much water, diluting the gin taste.
Lastly, here’s a rundown of the lingo. “Dry” these days means about seven parts gin to one part dry vermouth, whereas the 1930s’ classic was “wetter,” more like three to one, and the original version, the Martinez cocktail, was a blend of Italian vermouth, Old Tom gin (a sweeter style), bitters, sugar syrup, and maraschino liqueur. “In and out” is so dry that you add vermouth to the glass, swirl it around, and then dump it out, leaving just a whisper.
THE MANHATTAN
To my taste, nothing beats the impressive swank factor of this drink.
While the Martini cuts a sleek profile, the Manhattan, with its amber-gold
glow tinged ruby by the traditional cherry garnish, is its rich, sumptuous
counterpart. Making it is easy — just whiskey and sweet vermouth. Although
milder Canadian-blended whiskeys are traditional, I prefer the richer
pungency of a good bourbon whiskey such as Maker’s Mark, Knob Creek, or
Booker’s. The finest sweet vermouths are the Italian brands like Cinzano and
Martini & Rossi. At the World Trade Center Club, our Greater Manhattan
cocktail substituted sweet Spanish sherry (Dry Sack or Harveys Bristol
Cream) with great results. In a mixing glass, you stir the whiskey and
vermouth or sherry, three parts to one, over ice, then strain into a chilled
cocktail glass. A maraschino cherry garnish is traditional, but some clubs
make their own whiskey-soaked fresh cherries when the fruit is in season.
This makes a great after-dinner drink for those who don’t want something
very sweet.
THE MARGARITA
I suppose there is a woman to blame, as the Jimmy Buffett song goes, but
in my book, Margarita deserves heaps of worshipful praise, not blame. And I
am not alone. Her glorious, eponymous tequila-and-lime-juice concoction is
America’s No. 1 cocktail by far. Margarita’s identity and how her bracing
nectar came to be are steeped in all the lore befitting a classic. Did a
bartender create it as a tribute to the object of his affection? Many
stories give credit to a Mexico City socialite named Margarita who charged
her bartender with creating a signature cocktail that would please the
guests at her elaborate fiestas. Whatever story you choose to believe, you
can bet the original wasn’t a slushy blender drink. With all due respect to
Mr. Buffett, Margaritas are best served on the rocks or — my preference,
when the ingredients are top-shelf — straight up.
Here are the mixing essentials. First, the only ingredients permitted to come out of a bottle are the tequila and the orange liqueur (Cointreau, Grand Marnier, or Triple Sec). In other words, no pre-fab mixes. Buy a $2 hand reamer and juice your own limes. Make some homemade simple syrup with equal parts hot water and sugar dissolved together, then chilled. Second, here’s where you can put that shaker to use. Fill it with ice, then the ingredients. One part each fresh-squeezed lime juice and orange liqueur, two parts tequila, and a splash of simple syrup makes a tart version, add more simple syrup to sweeten it up if you prefer. Close the shaker tightly, and shake like crazy for a slow 10-count. In any drink with juice and sweet ingredients, the air and liquid introduced by hard shaking are critical to ensure a creamy consistency and proper flavor balance.
On the subject of flavor, some pitfalls to avoid: adding blue Curacao to make the drink blue, and using garbage tequila on the theory that the other ingredients will hide the taste. Use a good 100 percent blue agave silver (plata) or reposado (“rested”) tequila for a clean, vibrant-tasting cocktail — I like the Jose Cuervo, Sauza, Herradura, and Chinaco brands. (Save the luxury añejo tequilas with lots of wood age and smoothness for sipping from a snifter, as you would Cognac or single malt Scotch whisky.)
Although these are my three all-time favorites, there are so many more classic cocktails to explore. In a springtime tribute three years ago to Victor (“Trader Vic”) Bergeron, we reintroduced our club members to the roots of rum, from Planter’s Punch and Mai Tais to the Daiquiri. Yet another tasting paid tribute to the holiday tradition of Nogs, Grogs, and Toddies. To me, the classic cocktails represent venerable and delicious examples of the greatest of all the enduring club traditions — hospitality. Here’s to you and yours.
Andrea Immer is the author of Great Wine Made Simple. A master sommelier, she was named Best Sommelier in America in 1997. She served as wine and spirits consultant to the World Trade Center Club and Center Club and Windows on the World restaurant in New York.