HERB APPEAL

Add flavor, color, and texture to your meals — the natural way.

By Sidney Carlisle

Photography by John Shipes

Although fresh herbs are plentiful in grocery stores and farmers’ markets, not everyone takes advantage of them. Some consumers consider herbs essential while others think parsley is a useless garnish on a breakfast platter. Simple inexperience might be a problem, especially if your herb use is limited to the almost flavorless dried variety. While dried herbs have their culinary niches, most chefs prefer to work with fresh herbs.

Executive chef Joseph Occhipinti of Ipswich Country Club near Boston believes that herbal knowledge is crucial for chefs but also important for home cooks. “If you feel hesitant about using an unfamiliar herb,” he says, “read up on it. Go to the market and see what it smells like. Or if you’re served something with a flavor that appeals to you, start there. If you enjoy the taste of thyme in one recipe, you’ll like it in another.” ’ Rosemary is his favorite herb and he considers it the most versatile. “It can be used with anything,” he says, “meat dishes, sauces, and it works with flavors like lemon and garlic.”

Some herbs — and rosemary is one of them — can be overpowering, so Chef Joseph recommends beginning with a small amount and experimenting.

“Use the amount specified in a recipe,” he says, “and if it isn’t quite enough for your taste, add a bit more. Remember that herbs add both scent and flavor. Not only does everyone respond differently to both, but you also must balance the herbs with the other ingredients.”

It’s easier than ever to experiment with different herbs. Specialty growers and improved shipping methods have expanded the herb market. Stores that might have had limited selections just a couple of years ago now have eight or 10 different herbs, and upscale markets usually can order whatever is needed.

“Substitutions are always possible,” Chef Joseph says. “If chervil can’t be found, parsley can be used instead. Once you’re familiar with the taste of a specific herb, you’ll know how to change a recipe to suit your taste or what to use if [a certain herb] isn’t available.”

Fresh herbs are key ingredients in the recipes shared on these pages by Chef Joseph and other Associate Club chefs. They add flavor, color, and texture and should inspire even novice cooks to head straight for the produce department.

Sidney Carlisle recommends adding chopped fresh rosemary to a favorite biscuit recipe to create herb biscuits.

 
JOSEPH’S FRESH HERBES DE PROVENCE
Executive chef Joseph Occhipinti of Ipswich Country Club near Boston shares his recipe for herbes de Provence. Since fresh lavender is not always available, the chef recommends using the dried herb.

  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh summer savory

  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh rosemary

  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh thyme

  • 1/3 cup dried lavender

Combine the fresh herbs in a bowl. Sprinkle with the lavender and toss to blend the mixture evenly.

The recipe may be used as an herb rub for beef, lamb, or veal. To use, rub the meat with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Press the rub on all sides of the meat and sear in a hot sauté pan. Finish in a preheated 300-degree oven until the meat is cooked to the desired temperature.


GRILLED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS AND VEGETABLES WITH BASIL PESTO
Executive chef Kevin Phebus of the University Club of Jacksonville in Florida shares his favorite pesto recipe.

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  • 1 teaspoon salt

  • 1⁄4 cup balsamic vinegar

  • 1 tablespoon chopped garlic

  • 2 portobello mushrooms, stems removed

  • 1 beefsteak tomato, thickly sliced

  • 1 red onion, peeled and quartered

  • 1 zucchini squash, sliced into 1⁄4 -inch thick rounds

  • Basil Pesto (recipe follows)

Combine the olive oil, pepper, salt, vinegar, and garlic in a mixing bowl. Blend well. Place the vegetables in a glass or stainless steel dish and toss with the marinade until well coated. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours. To serve, preheat a grill or broiler. Cook the mushrooms, tomato slices, onion, and squash 4 inches from the heat until just tender, turning once. Do not overcook. Remove from the heat and arrange on a serving platter. Drizzle with Basil Pesto and serve warm.


BASIL PESTO

  • 4 ounces basil leaves

  • 1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts (see note)

  • 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

  • 2 garlic cloves

  • 2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese (about 2⁄3 cup)

  • 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Rinse the basil leaves and dry them carefully with paper toweling so no trace of water remains. Place the basil, pine nuts, salt, garlic, and cheese in a blender. Purée into a paste and then scrape the mixture into a bowl. Use a spoon to carefully work the olive oil into the paste, adding a bit more oil if needed to thin the consistency of the pesto.

Note: To toast the pine nuts, heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and, stirring constantly, toast until golden brown, about 3 minutes.


ROSEMARY BREAD
A recipe developed by the author, this Italian-style bread has a crisp crust and a wonderful rosemary flavor.

  • 3-1⁄3 cups bread flour

  • 1-1⁄2 teaspoons salt

  • 1 package (1⁄4 ounce) active dry yeast

  • 1 tablespoon rosemary-flavored olive oil

  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves

  • 1-1⁄4 cups lukewarm water

  • 2 tablespoons cornmeal

  • egg wash

Combine the flour, salt, and yeast in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center of the mixture and add the oil, rosemary, and water. Stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy mass of dough forms. Turn onto a lightly floured surface, dusting the dough with flour if it is too sticky to knead. Knead until smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes.

Wash and dry the mixing bowl. Grease bowl lightly with shortening and place the dough in the bowl. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a clean cloth and let rise in a warm place until double in size, about 1 hour.

Grease a baking sheet with shortening and sprinkle it with cornmeal. Set the pan aside. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and punch it down. Divide into four pieces and shape each piece into a smooth round ball. Cover loosely with wax paper and allow the dough to rest 10 minutes. Shape the dough into smooth ovals, pinching together any seams or creases on the bottom of each loaf. Place on the prepared baking sheet. Using a very sharp knife, cut three diagonal slashes about 1⁄4 -inch deep on the top of each loaf. Cover loosely with wax paper and let rise until double in size, about 50 minutes.

To prepare the egg wash, combine 1 egg white and 1 tablespoon water in a small bowl. Beat lightly with a fork until well blended.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a shallow pan of boiling water on the bottom oven rack. Brush the loaves with the egg wash.  Bake 15 minutes. Brush again and bake 10 minutes more, until golden brown. Remove from the pan and cool 10 minutes on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. One loaf yields two servings.

Note: This recipe may be prepared using a 1-1⁄2- or 2-pound bread machine. Place the ingredients in the pan in the order recommended by the manufacturer. Check the consistency of the dough, adding a bit more flour if the dough seems sticky. Select dough or manual cycle and start the machine. When the cycle is complete (dough will have risen one time), remove from the machine, punch down, and follow the shaping and baking directions given above.


HERB CRUSTED SEA BASS
Executive chef Joseph Occhipinti of Ipswich Country Club near Boston also uses fines herbes to season salmon, halibut, and mahimahi.

  • 4 sea bass fillets, about 8 ounces each

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus additional to rub on fillets

  • salt and pepper

  • 1⁄3 cup finely chopped chervil

  • 1⁄3 cup finely chopped tarragon

  • 1⁄3 cup finely chopped Italian parsley

  • 1⁄3 cup finely chopped chives

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray a baking sheet with non-stick spray and set it aside.

Lightly rub olive oil on each fillet and salt and pepper to taste. Combine the chervil, tarragon, parsley, and chives in a shallow dish, mixing well. Press the herbs on one side of the fish.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a sauté pan over medium high heat until the pan is hot, but not smoking. Add the fish, herb side up, and sear until lightly brown, about 2 minutes.

Remove the fish from the sauté pan and place herb side down on the baking sheet. Place in the oven and cook 6 to 8 minutes, until cooked through.

To serve, place each fillet on a serving plate with the herb side up.

Yield: 4 servings.


THAI BASIL MARINATED SALMON WITH KRISPY SLAW
This Asian entrée from executive chef Kevin Grafton of Hackberry Creek Country Club near Dallas serves four.

  • 4 salmon fillets, about 5 ounces each

  • 1⁄3 cup Thai basil leaves, chopped (see note)

  • 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger

  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil

  • baked wontons

  • Krispy Slaw (recipe follows)

  • 1⁄3 cup pickled ginger, for garnish

  • toasted sesame seeds, for garnish (optional)

Remove any bones or skin from the salmon. Place the fillets in a shallow glass dish. In a bowl, combine the basil, ginger, and sesame oil. Spread the marinade over the salmon and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 3 hours.

To prepare the wontons, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut 16 wonton wraps in half and place on a baking sheet. Bake about 8 minutes, until crispy, and set aside.

Preheat the broiler. Place the fillets, retaining as much of the marinade as possible, on a baking sheet sprayed with nonstick spray. Broil the salmon 4 inches from the heat for 6 to 8 minutes or until the desired degree of doneness is reached.

To assemble the entrée, place 8 baked wonton pieces around a serving plate. Place the Krispy Slaw on the serving plate, and the salmon on top of the slaw. Garnish the plate with pickled ginger and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds, if desired.

Note: Thai basil has an anise flavor. The leaves are smaller than those of sweet basil and the stems are reddish-purple.

Yield: 4 servings.


KRISPY SLAW

  • 1⁄2 head Napa cabbage, julienned

  • 1⁄2 cup bok choy, julienned

  • 3 green onions, cut in 1-inch pieces

  • 1⁄4 of a red onion, julienned

  • 1⁄2 of a red bell pepper, julienned

  • 1⁄2 of a yellow bell pepper, julienned

  • 1⁄2 bunch cilantro, leaves only (no stems)

  • 1 cup spinach leaves, julienned

  • Sesame Dressing (recipe follows)

Wash the vegetables very well and drain thoroughly before cutting into julienne strips. Place cabbage, bok choy, onions, peppers, cilantro (whole leaves), and spinach in a salad bowl. Add Sesame Dressing and toss to combine. Refrigerate until ready to serve.


SESAME DRESSING

  • 1⁄2 cup plum wine

  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce

  • 1⁄2 cup rice wine vinegar

  •  1⁄4 cup fresh lime juice

  •  1⁄4 cup soy sauce

  •  1⁄2 cup sesame oil

Combine all ingredients except sesame oil in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the sesame oil, blending well.


HERBS 101
BASIL. Several varieties of this herb from the mint family are available. Sweet basil is a grocery staple, and purple, Thai, lemon, cinnamon, and opal varieties can be found in many markets. Only the leaves are used and they should be rinsed and dried just before using. The combination of basil and tomatoes is classic.

BAY LEAF. Although California bay leaf often is purchased dried, growers offer fresh leaves in some areas. Bay laurel leaves, harvested from evergreen trees, usually are imported and many chefs prefer their spicy flavor. The leaves of either variety are used whole and removed before serving. Most recipes specify only one leaf, as the flavor can be strong.

CHERVIL. A relative of parsley, chervil has an anise-like flavor. Both the lacy leaves and the stems are used. When using in a cooked recipe, add at the end of the cooking time. Chervil complements both fish and chicken.

CHIVES. From the onion family, chives add a mild onion flavor and a slight peppery taste. The leaves should be snipped or minced just before using. Whole stems may be wrapped around bundles of asparagus or green beans before steaming.

CILANTRO. The leaves of the coriander plant are referred to as cilantro and as Chinese parsley. The herb is a common ingredient in Mexican dishes and is best used fresh. No stems are used, only the leaves.

DILL. The feathery green leaves of fresh dill may be used to flavor fish, cream sauce,  or vegetables. Dill also is used as a garnish.

FENNEL. The delicate leaves of fennel may be used to enhance most fish recipes. The leaves of common fennel, also called sweet fennel, are used rather than those from the bulb variety. A member of the parsley family, the herb has a licorice flavor.

LAVENDER. This member of the mint family is useful in salads, with lamb, and to flavor both vinegars and jellies. Substituting lavender for rosemary will impart an entirely new flavor to chicken.

LEMON BALM. The leaves of lemon balm have the scent of lemon with a hint of mint. Used lightly, the herb improves green salads, fruit salads, and chicken salads. It may be substituted for lemon peel in some recipes. In a cooked recipe, add lemon balm during the last few minutes.

LEMONGRASS. Found primarily in Asian markets, lemongrass is an integral ingredient in Thai recipes. The herb, also called citronella, complements both fish and chicken.

LEMON VERBENA. The leaves of lemon verbena have a heavy flavor and may be used when a lemon accent is desired. Sprinkle the chopped leaves lightly on salads, use in baked goods, or add to fish or poultry recipes.

MARJORAM. This mild tasting member of the mint family often is used to flavor meats, particularly lamb and veal. Marjoram may be substituted for sweet basil or oregano. Add near the end of the specified cooking time.

MINT. Several varieties of mint are available, including common mint, peppermint, and spearmint. Found in sweet and savory recipes, mint may be used with vegetables, particularly carrots and peas, and is used with lamb or fish. Fresh mint sprigs make a nice garnish for  beverages.

OREGANO. Occasionally called wild marjoram, oregano has a stronger flavor than marjoram. It should be used sparingly since the flavor can be overpowering. It may be used with game, pork, or egg recipes, and most vegetables.

PARSLEY. Parsley varieties include curly leaf and flat leaf, which also is called Italian parsley. Either will add color and flavor to green or vegetable salads. Add to cooked recipes just before removing from the heat. Chopped parsley and melted butter combine for an easy sauce for most vegetables.

ROSEMARY. Easy to grow at home, rosemary is another mint variety. Chopping the leaves of this aromatic herb releases its flavor. Used with poultry and lamb, rosemary also complements egg recipes and vegetables.

SAGE. The leaves of this herb have a strong flavor, so a little goes a long way. Sage is used in many pork and sausage blends, as well as with poultry. It may be used with most meats and vegetables, especially potatoes. The leaves also may be used in salads.

SAVORY. Related to mint, the two types of savory are summer and winter. Both taste a bit like thyme and marjoram, and chefs use them interchangeably. Summer savory may be added to most vegetables, including green beans or lima beans. Winter savory, the less common variety, is used to flavor game.

SORREL. The leaves of sorrel may be used in egg dishes or sprinkled over green salad. Snip off the smallest leaves and add sparingly so other greens aren’t overpowered.

TARRAGON. Assertive, with a defined anise flavor, tarragon is a classic herb in French cooking. Lemon enhances its flavor, and it is excellent in bland foods like white fish or chicken. It’s also used in herb butter and mayonnaise.

THYME. An aromatic member of the mint family, garden thyme is considered by some chefs to be an all-around seasoning. Extremely versatile, its flavor enhances meats, poultry, almost any vegetable, and salads.

ZACTAR. This staple in Lebanese and other Middle Eastern recipes is available fresh in Middle Eastern markets or gourmet produce stores. It’s used to flavor rice, couscous, and vegetable dishes. If unavailable, substitute thyme.


COOKING WITH HERBS … IN FRANCE
When faced with the French term for a particular assortment of herbs, it may be helpful to understand what the recipe requires.

BOUQUET GARNI. Small bundles of aromatic herbs used to flavor soups, stews, or sauces. Traditionally consisting of parsley, thyme, and bay leaf, the herbs are tied in cheesecloth for cooking and removed before serving. This method flavors food without leaving dark specks of the cooked herbs. Depending on the recipe, the packet also may contain varying amounts of basil, tarragon, and rosemary.

FINES HERBES. A combination of minced fresh herbs that consists of equal parts parsley, tarragon, chervil, and chives. The term may be used when parsley is the only herb.

HERBES DE PROVENCE. Mixed fresh or dried herbs including basil, lavender, thyme, marjoram, rosemary, sage, and summer savory. Some markets stock pre-blended containers of dry herbes de Provence in the spice section.

 

 

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