BACK TO BASICS
Steak and potatoes make a return as the prime choice on Associate Club menus.
Meat and potatoes, the requisite food of the 1950s, experienced a revitalization in the ’90s. Cleverly marketed as comfort food, items such as meat loaf and mashed potatoes reappeared at about the same time wood-paneled steak houses and potatoes with panache entered our lives. Meat loaf may have disappeared from most of today’s menus, but the steak and potato selections are better than ever.
Anyone who’s old enough to remember Jimmy Stewart’s movie about Hereford cattle (The Rare Breed) — and will admit weeping over Vindicator’s death — might be surprised at some changes occurring in U.S. beef production. Ranches from Texas to Montana still raise those white-faced Herefords and other purebred cattle, and maintain crossbreeding programs to produce lean cattle for feeder operations.
But while carefully trimmed steaks and beef are standard for domestic consumption, a few operators are raising cattle to meet the demands of a completely different beef market, both in the United States and abroad. The breeders begin with cattle from Japanese Wagyu bloodlines and crossbreed them with U.S. purebreds like Black Angus, eventually producing seven-eighths Wagyu cattle. The animals are kept on a strictly controlled feeding program that combines roughage with a diet heavy in rice, barley, and grain products, yielding heavily marbled, top-quality meat. Full-flavored and tender, the meat also is dreadfully expensive and most is shipped to Japan and Europe. The overseas market is willing to pay the exorbitant price per pound, and serving sizes are much smaller than what the American consumer is accustomed to eating. Eight ounces of beef will easily make four servings in many Asian and European recipes. Despite the fact that 3 ounces of cooked beef is the recommended portion size, many Americans happily ignore the dietary guidelines when ordering steak.
Proponents claim the fat-streaked steaks and other cuts are better quality than what’s required to meet the U.S. Department of Agriculture guidelines for Prime, the top category of graded beef in this country. Prime, with its abundant marbling, comes from young cattle and the cuts usually are reserved for steak houses, restaurants, and very upscale markets. Choice, which is excellent quality but with slightly less marbling, usually is the best meat available at the grocery level. Other supermarket beef not specifically labeled Prime or Choice is Select grade, which shows little marbling. Grades below Select are used for processed meat products.
The price and the fat content may keep Wagyu beef from becoming a part of the average person’s diet, but steak is here to stay. And as an accompaniment, we want potatoes. The agriculture program at Texas A&M University estimates the average American eats about 125 pounds of potatoes and potato products each year.
Potatoes are high in potassium and provide vitamins C and B6. Naturally low in fat and sodium, they are low in calories for the amount of nutrients and carbohydrates they contain. Most of us miss the point, however, since we’re convinced that french fries qualify as a vegetable serving and are fond of salty processed items loaded with fat.
Regardless of how we eat them, potatoes are a $3 billion a year crop grown commercially in all 50 of the United States. Russets are the most familiar and are commonly referred to as Idaho potatoes, no matter where they were harvested. Along with russets, reds and long whites remain market staples, but the demand for specialty potatoes is increasing. Well-stocked grocers and farmers markets offer interesting varieties such as All Blue or Peruvian Purple, and smaller fingerling tubers like Butterfinger and Rose Finn Apple. Those with home gardens should peruse catalogs offering modern crosses or heirloom seed potatoes. Knowledgeable cooks use specific potatoes in some recipes. As the market expands, expect to see ingredient lists specifying a particular potato variety.
The humble potato’s biggest challenge may be in encouraging consumers to eat it prepared in a manner other than fried. It’s hard to resist. Associate Club chefs offer creative potato selections that complement whatever steak you choose. You’ll find several of their recipes on the following pages.
Sidney Carlisle raises Hereford/Brahman crossbred calves on her Texas ranch.
PORT WINE FILLET WITH FETA MASHED POTATOES
Executive chef Mike Gabrielson of the Piedmont Club in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, garnishes each plate with roasted shallots and freshly prepared potato chips dusted with thyme.
-
2 shallots, finely chopped
-
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
-
1-1⁄2 cups port wine
-
4 tablespoons demi-glace (see note)
-
4 beef tenderloin fillets (about 7 ounces each)
-
salt and pepper
-
Feta Mashed Potatoes (recipe follows)
Place the shallots and garlic in a saucepan and sauté until they sweat, about 3 minutes over high heat. Carefully add the port to deglaze the pan. Add the demi-glace and bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer the sauce until reduced by a quarter, about 15 minutes. Set aside to keep warm.
Preheat the grill. Place the fillets on the grill and salt and pepper to taste. Grill as desired.
To serve, place a fillet on each of four serving plates. Spoon the port wine sauce over the steak and add Feta Mashed Potatoes to each plate. Serve immediately.
Yield: 4 servings.
Note: Although demi-glace is available in the club kitchen, the chef advises it may be more convenient for home use to purchase either jarred demi-glace or to prepare it from a package such as Knorr Classic Sauces Demi-Glace Sauce Mix.
FETA MASHED POTATOES
-
2 large russet potatoes, peeled (about 1-1⁄2 pounds)
-
1⁄2 cup milk or cream, warmed
-
4 tablespoons butter, melted
-
4 ounces feta cheese
-
salt and pepper
Boil or steam the potatoes until fork tender but not mushy. Discard the cooking water and place the potatoes in a mixing bowl. Add the milk, butter, and feta cheese and mash together. Add salt and pepper to taste.
MARINATED RIB-EYE STEAK WITH GORGONZOLA BUTTER
A favorite recipe of executive chef Laurie Thomas of Shady Valley Golf Club near Dallas.
-
1 cup canola oil
-
1⁄4 cup peeled and minced shallots
-
2 tablespoons peeled and minced garlic
-
4 rib-eye steaks
-
kosher salt
-
freshly ground black pepper
-
Gorgonzola Butter (recipe follows)
Combine the canola oil, shallots, and garlic in a shallow bowl. Dredge the steak in the marinade and place in a baking dish. Pour the marinade over the steaks and cover the dish with plastic wrap. Refrigerate eight to 24 hours. Drain lightly before grilling.
Preheat the grill. Season the meat on both sides with the salt and pepper. Cook until the steaks reach the desired temperature. To serve, place the steaks on four heated plates and top with Gorgonzola Butter, allowing the butter to melt over the top of the meat.
Yield: 4 servings.
GORGONZOLA BUTTER
-
1 pound unsalted butter, cubed and at room temperature
-
1-1⁄2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
-
1-1⁄2 teaspoons minced shallots
-
1⁄2 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
-
1-1⁄2 teaspoons minced rosemary
-
3⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt
-
4 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
Combine the butter, pepper, shallots, parsley, rosemary, and salt in a food processor. Process until smooth. Add the cheese and process until well combined. Use a rubber spatula to divide the butter in half. Scrape each portion onto a 12-inch length of parchment paper. Fold the paper over the butter and form into a log, twisting the ends of the paper to secure. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until serving time. To use, slice off the desired amount and melt over the steaks.
Note: The Gorgonzola Butter may be made ahead of time
and frozen. For best results, thaw in the refrigerator before using.
POTATOES COMMODORE
A recipe shared by executive chef Greg Carso of Chicago’s Metropolitan Club.
-
6 medium baking potatoes
-
4 tablespoons sour cream
-
2 tablespoons plus 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
-
1⁄2 cup chopped spinach
-
1⁄4 teaspoon nutmeg
-
3 tablespoons plus 2 tablespoons melted butter
-
salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Wash the potatoes and pat dry. Use a fork to pierce the skin on all sides of the potato. Bake, unwrapped, about 1 hour and 15 minutes or until fork tender. Cool slightly and cut in half lengthwise. Scoop the potato pulp into a bowl and set aside six of the halved potato shells.
Lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees. To the potato pulp, add the sour cream, 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese, the spinach, nutmeg, and 3 tablespoons of the melted butter. Mix well until creamy (no lumps) and add salt and pepper to taste. Pipe or mound the mixture into the reserved 6 potato shells and place them on a baking sheet. Drizzle with the remaining butter and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Bake 12 to 15 minutes. If desired, the potatoes may be browned lightly under a hot broiler. Serve hot.
Yield: 6 servings.
MUSTARD-HERB CRUSTED PORTERHOUSE STEAK
An outstanding entrée from Spencer McMillin, executive chef at the Crescent Club in Memphis, Tennessee.
-
4 porterhouse steaks (or T-bone steaks)
-
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and halved
-
kosher salt to taste, plus 1⁄2 teaspoon
-
cracked black pepper
-
12 cloves of garlic, finely chopped by hand
-
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme
-
1 tablespoon finely chopped rosemary
-
1 tablespoon finely chopped oregano
-
2 cups panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
-
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
-
1⁄2 cup whole grain mustard (see note)
Rub each steak with the cut garlic cloves and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set the steaks aside while preheating the broiler.
Combine the chopped garlic, herbs, panko, butter, mustard, and 1⁄2 teaspoon of kosher salt in a mixing bowl. Beat on low speed until a loose dough is formed. (The dough may be mixed by hand or stirred together with a fork.)
Preheat the broiler (see note). Broil the steaks until the desired temperature is reached and place them on a baking sheet. Press an even layer of the dough on each steak and broil until evenly browned, about 5 minutes. Allow the meat to rest for 3 minutes before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Note: The chef’s preferred brand of mustard is Moutard de Meaux. If desired, the steaks may be grilled rather than broiled, but the crust will require browning under the broiler.
JEAN’S YUKON GOLD POTATOES
This rich potato recipe was given to executive chef Laurie Thomas of Shady Valley Golf Club near Dallas by club members Jerry and Sharyn Bailey.
-
8 Yukon Gold potatoes (about 4 pounds)
-
1⁄2 cup unsalted butter (see note)
-
kosher salt
-
freshly ground black pepper
-
2 cups heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Spray an 8-by-12-inch baking dish with non-stick spray and set it aside.
Dice the potatoes, leaving the skin intact, into bite-size pieces. Dice the butter into small pieces. Toss the potatoes, butter, salt and pepper (to taste) together and place in the baking dish. Pour the cream over the potatoes. Bake until the potatoes are tender, about 1 hour and 15 minutes, stirring halfway through the baking time.
Yield: 8 servings.
Note: An additional 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 cup butter may be added, if desired.
WHAT’S AT STEAK?
While the USDA sets standards for the inspection and grading of beef,
consumers are somewhat at the mercy of the butcher when the meat is actually
cut into steaks. And depending on where one lives, the steaks may be labeled
with different names, even though the cut is similar. To further complicate
matters, some familiar recipe names are commonly applied to cuts of meat.
London broil, for example, is a recipe prepared from flank steak, although
the packaged meat is often labeled London broil. The following is a list of
the premium steaks available in markets and restaurants.
Tenderloin — The whole boneless fillet portion of the short loin. The meat is very tender and contains little fat. Filet mignons are cut from the small end of the tenderloin, as are medallions. Tournedos are cut from the other end of the fillet. The thick center section of the tenderloin may be grilled for chateaubriand, a recipe that serves two people and is accompanied by béarnaise sauce. Steaks cut from the fillet also may be labeled simply as tenderloin.
Porterhouse and T-bone — Both cuts are from the center section of the short loin, including part of the tenderloin, and both have bones. The difference between the two is the size of the tenderloin portion. In the porterhouse, the tender portion is larger and it is, therefore, more expensive than T-bone.
Strip steak — This tender steak is cut from the short loin. A steak of many names, if it is boneless it may be labeled top loin steak, New York strip, or Kansas City strip, among others. If the bone is present, the meat may be labeled Delmonico steak, shell steak, club steak, or sirloin strip steak.
Rib eye — Cut from the rib section of the carcass, this steak has a bit more fat and flavor than the above. In some areas, rib-eye steak also is referred to as Delmonico steak or Spencer steak.
Sirloin — This portion of the carcass provides boneless top sirloin steaks. If the cut includes the bone, various labeling includes wedge bone steak and pin bone steak. A steak labeled tri-tip or triangle steak has been cut from the less tender bottom sirloin.