By Sidney Carlisle
Photography by RJ Hinkle of Quad Photo

Deemed by many to be an extravagant luxury saved for special occasions, caviar isn’t a staple on everyone’s shopping list. Depending on the type of caviar, it can indeed be costly and a small fortune is required if one insists on beluga, the most expensive of all. As with many other foods, however, the market is changing and caviar is in an especially odd position because of factors that affect it both domestically and internationally.

Executive chef Scott Schwartz of the Buckhead Club in Atlanta, is knowledgeable about caviar and follows the industry avidly. "Almost anyone who buys caviar frequently is aware of the enormous changes since the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991," he says. "Until then, the U.S.S.R. and Iran controlled the market. And in Russia, the government regulated all aspects of the caviar trade, so imported Russian caviar was top quality. At the same time, there was an embargo on Iranian caviar. So not only was Russian caviar all you could get, it was absolutely the best. When the U.S.S.R. fell apart, it meant that almost anybody with a boat could fish. The black-market trade went nuts. There were problems with harvesting the eggs, and not much control over the way the eggs were cleaned. And immediately all kinds of phony labels and fake caviar tins appeared. It was very difficult for a long time to gauge what you might get when you ordered caviar."

There are many purveyors who distribute domestic and imported caviar in the United States. Since caviar requires very specialized handling from the time of its harvest until it is packed in tins for shipment, a reputable provider is critical. Buyers, whether professional chefs or not, must depend on the distributor to ensure that the original supplier is conscientious and that the caviar being purchased has been properly processed.

Environmental groups are concerned not only with the problems associated with harvesting sturgeon eggs, but also are alarmed by the decline of the fish themselves. The Caspian Sea is home to the four sturgeon species that provide caviar. Bordered by Russia, Iran, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, and Kazakhstan, catches from the sea have dropped because of over-fishing, poaching, and an increasing amount of illegal trade. In addition, the sturgeon are threatened by pollution, a loss of habitat in spawning areas, and a lack of effective management of the caviar trade.

Combined efforts of the Natural Resources Defense Council and the Wildlife Conservation Society, among others, have produced a campaign called "Caviar Emptor: Let the Connoisseur Beware." The program is designed in particular to protect the beluga sturgeon in the Caspian, since this species is so over-fished that it is in line for the U.S. endangered species list. If the Fish and Wildlife authorities add the fish to the list, it will mean an end to U.S. imports of beluga caviar.

Proponents of the campaign aren’t suggesting an end to caviar consumption, but are instead urging consumers to consider alternative caviars. One suggestion is farmed American sturgeon roe. The farming program, also called aquaculture, takes years to develop since the sturgeon are eight to 10 years old before they produce eggs. Although the program is still fairly new, good quality roe is now being distributed from producers and has been well received by consumers.

Domestic caviar has a place in the culinary world, whether it is from farmed sturgeon or harvested from other fish in U.S. waters. The roe is less expensive and the taste varies from fish to fish, appealing to a wide range of palates and pocketbooks. Chef Scott likes to use American sturgeon roe. "I personally like it," he explains, "and although the flavor may not be quite as good as Iranian or Russian caviar, the flavor is consistent. That’s important to me, and also it’s priced so that you can be a bit more generous with a serving."

Other Associate Club chefs serve caviar, but their preferences vary. Eric Mauritzen, executive chef of the University Club Atop Symphony Towers in San Diego, is fond of caviar, but he prefers imported osetra. "I always order Russian caviar unless it’s just unavailable for some reason," he says. "I love the taste. Salmon roe is pretty, but the flavor is completely different. And I don’t have much luck with American paddlefish roe. Maybe because it comes from Tennessee, and we’re in California, but it seems to have too short a shelf life for my use. This could be a distribution problem. We really have to depend on our supplier."

Executive chef Robert Ellison at Crow Canyon Country Club near San Francisco agrees with Chef Eric. "For the money," he comments, "I think osetra is the best bet. Salmon roe is showy and beautiful with great eye appeal, but it’s lacking in flavor. Osetra is full-flavored and I like the medium-sized grains."

Derek Healy, executive chef of City Club on Bunker Hill in Los Angeles, prefers Iranian sevruga. "It’s my favorite and I think it has a better taste than some other products," he comments. "I’ve served a lot of sevruga. The grains are small so it’s pretty as a garnish, and the flavor is more pronounced than some other varieties." Chef Derek, however, isn’t opposed to domestic roe. "Caviar is about taste, first of all, and also texture. Some people like big, soft berries, and others prefer smaller grains that pop in your mouth. Whatever appeals to your taste is what you should eat. If North Carolina trout roe is your thing, then by all means go for it. Remember, too, that price doesn’t always guarantee quality. Experiment and you’ll find a caviar or roe that is both tasty and affordable."

Regardless of the variety being served, no one expects to eat his fill of caviar. Even if it’s served unadorned, or accompanied by blini or toast points, portions are usually small. Caviar is frequently used on appetizers, again because the servings don’t require too much on each tidbit. Although the recipes that follow specify a particular caviar or roe, all Associate Club chefs would expect you to use your favorite, rather than theirs.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO SHOOTERS WITH CAVIAR
Executive chef Robert Ellison of Crow Canyon Country Club near San Francisco likes to serve these shooters for the club’s gourmet night.

• 2 pounds yellow heirloom tomatoes
• 2 pounds red heirloom tomatoes
• salt and pepper
• 2 tablespoons crème fraîche
• 1 ounce osetra caviar

Remove the top core of the tomatoes. Cut an "X" on the bottom of each. Drop the tomatoes into a large pot of boiling water and leave for 30 seconds. Using tongs, remove the tomatoes from the hot water and submerge in ice water. Once they are cool enough to handle, use a paring knife to peel off the skin. Cut each tomato in half and squeeze out the seeds, leaving just tomato flesh (no skin, no seeds).

Use a blender or food processor to puree each color of tomato separately, adding salt and pepper to taste.

To serve, use martini glasses. Pour the red puree and yellow puree into the glass slowly, at the same time, creating a half-and-half effect. Top with a teaspoon of crème fraîche and garnish with the caviar. Serve immediately.

Yield: 4 to 6 shooters.

SMOKED SALMON AND CAVIAR WITH GAUFRETTE OF GOLD POTATOES
Gaufrette, translates executive chef Eric Mauritzen of the University Club Atop Symphony Towers in San Diego, is French for wafer biscuit (gaufre meaning waffle). He uses the waffle-cut potatoes as a base for this elegant caviar appetizer.

• 3 gold potatoes
• vegetable oil
• 8 ounces smoked salmon, thinly sliced
• 4 ounces Crème Fraîche (recipe follows)
• 1 ounce osetra caviar
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon fresh chives, minced

Peel the potatoes. Use a mandolin to cut the potatoes lengthwise into thin slices, crisscrossing the cuts to form waffle chips. Choose 20 nicely shaped chips to use for the recipe. Pour enough oil in a large saucepan or deep fryer to reach a depth of 2 inches. Heat until hot but not smoking. Add a few chips at a time without crowding and fry until golden. Drain on paper toweling. Repeat until all chips are fried.

To assemble the appetizer, place 5 chips in a star pattern on each serving plate. Divide the smoked salmon into 4 portions and mound in the center of each star. Spoon a small dollop of crème fraîche onto the center of each potato chip. Garnish the crème with the caviar. Drizzle the olive oil onto the bare spots on the plate and garnish with a tiny bit of chives.

Yields: 4 servings.

CRÈME FRAÎCHE
In a glass bowl, whisk 2 tablespoons of buttermilk into 1 cup of whipping cream. Cover with plastic wrap and store at room temperature 12 to 24 hours, until thickened. Stir well and refrigerate for up to one week.

JUMBO SHRIMP WITH THREE CAVIAR DRESSING
Executive chef Derek Healy shares an appetizer that’s a favorite of members of City Club on Bunker Hill in Los Angeles.

• 4 jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 tablespoon, plus 1⁄2 teaspoon minced shallot, divided
• black pepper
• 4 ounces shredded phyllo dough (see note)
• canola or peanut oil for frying
• salt
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
• 1 teaspoon chopped chives
• 1 teaspoon minced tomato
• 1 teaspoon salmon roe
• 1 teaspoon American sturgeon roe
• 1 teaspoon sevruga caviar
• small bunch frisé lettuce
• 1 teaspoon white truffle oil
• 6 long pieces of fresh chives

Place the shrimp in a shallow dish. In a small bowl, combine 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, the minced garlic, and 1 tablespoon of the shallot. Pour over the shrimp. Season with black pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate in the refrigerator for l hour.

Unfasten the package of phyllo and pull out a section of the dough about 6 inches long, about 1 ounce of dough. Close the package and set aside. Place the dough on a clean work surface, patting it into a rectangle about 6 inches by 3 inches. Lay 1 shrimp on the short end of the dough and roll up tightly, completely covering the shrimp. Repeat with remaining shrimp and set aside.

Pour canola or peanut oil into a fryer or saucepan to a depth of 3 inches. Heat until the oil reaches 350 degrees on a frying thermometer. Deep-fry the shrimp, one piece at a time. Drain on paper toweling and season with salt. Trim any loose phyllo with a knife, if desired.

For the dressing, combine the vinegar, chives, tomato, and remaining shallot in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk in the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil to complete the vinaigrette. Gently stir in the salmon roe, sturgeon roe, and the caviar.

To serve, divide the frisé between two serving plates. Drizzle with the truffle oil. Place two shrimp on each plate, interlocking the shrimp. Drizzle with the vinaigrette. Garnish each serving with 3 long pieces of chives.

Yield: 2 servings.

Note: Thaw the shredded phyllo dough in the refrigerator overnight. Let stand unopened for 2 hours at room temperature before using. Remove only the amount required for 1 shrimp at a time from the package, closing the package so the remaining phyllo does not dry out while you work.

WHITEFISH FILLETS WITH CAVIAR BEURRE BLANC
Executive chef Robert Ellison of Crow Canyon Country Club near San Francisco serves the sautéed whitefish atop whipped potatoes.

• 3 shallots, peeled and minced (1⁄4 cup)
• 1 cup white wine vinegar
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 8 ounces cold butter, cut in 1⁄2-inch dice
• 1 tablespoon heavy cream
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper
• 2 pounds white fish fillets, cut into 8 pieces
• 3 tablespoons olive oil (more if needed)
• 1 ounce osetra caviar

To prepare the beurre blanc, combine the shallots, vinegar, and wine in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Lower the heat and simmer until reduced to about a 1⁄2 cup, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the butter until all is incorporated. Add the cream and set the sauce aside to keep warm.

Combine the flour, salt, and pepper in a shallow dish. Dredge the fillets in the flour and shake off the excess. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add half of the fillets and cook until golden brown on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Repeat with the remaining fillets, adding additional olive oil if necessary.

To serve, place two fillets on each serving plate. Spoon the caviar on top of the fillets and ladle the beurre blanc sauce over the caviar.

Yield: 4 servings.

SHORT STACK WITH EGGS
This is a deceptive name for a favorite menu item created by executive chef Scott Schwartz at Atlanta’s Buckhead Club. It’s a stack of Chive Blini with two varieties of domestic caviar, garnished with crème fraîche.

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
• 8 Chive Blini (recipe follows)
• 1 ounce salmon roe
• 2 tablespoons crème fraîche
• 1 ounce American sturgeon roe
• 8 (1-inch) chive sticks (cut from the top of the chives)

Lightly sprinkle 4 large chilled plates with finely chopped chives, without sprinkling on the rims of the plates. Stack 2 warm blini in the center of each plate. At five points around the blini stack, place three or four pearls of salmon roe on each plate. On top of the blini, place a quenelle (small oval) of crème fraîche and a quenelle of American sturgeon roe. Cross two chive sticks on top of the two quenelles and serve immediately.

Yield: 4 servings.

CHIVE BLINI

• 1 pound of potatoes
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons crème fraîche, plus 1 more tablespoon if needed
• 2 large eggs
• 1 egg yolk
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
• salt and pepper to taste

Peel the potatoes and cut into 3⁄4-inch dice. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook the potatoes until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain well and let cool about 5 minutes. Press through a ricer into a mixing bowl or mash by hand. Weigh out 9 ounces of the pureed potato, discarding the remainder. Whisk the flour into the potato. Whisk in the crème fraîche. Add the eggs, whisking until the mixture is smooth. Whisk in the egg yolk, chives, and salt and pepper. The batter should fall from the whisk in a thick stream but still hold shape. Add a bit more crème fraîche if too thick.

Heat a griddle brushed with melted butter over medium heat. Spoon by 11⁄2 tablespoons onto the griddle and cook until the pancakes are golden brown on both sides.

Yield: About 20 silver-dollar-sized blini.

IT’S A MATTER OF TASTE
The setting is a private room at the Tower Club in Dallas. The event is a tasting, a chance to compare an assortment of caviar, beautifully presented by executive chef Oswald Kuonen. The caviar, labeled Black Pearl and packaged by Petrovich Caviar Inc., has been delivered to the club by André de Baghy, the president of Gourmet Foods International. For the handful of us lucky enough to be present, the chef has thoughtfully provided tiny mother-of-pearl spoons. It is a special moment at the Tower Club.

The caviar display includes beluga, osetra, and sevruga, along with salmon, whitefish, American paddlefish, and white sturgeon American roe. As we sample the caviar, de Baghy gives his expert opinion on each selection but cautions that each person should speak freely about what they prefer. "What has the best flavor to one of us," he says, "will not be the favorite of someone else." And he’s correct. Each of us has definite preferences, whether the caviar is eaten straight from the spoon or atop one of Chef Oswald’s delightful blini.

Beluga, not surprisingly, wins most of the votes for first place, but the real shocker is the American paddlefish roe. It’s excellent and we all like it. Chef Oswald sums it up nicely. "If price is of absolutely no concern," he says, "then I want beluga. But my next choice is paddlefish. It looks and tastes like sevruga and many people cannot tell the difference. And it costs less, so you can eat more." It’s a theory worth remembering.

CAVIAR AT ITS BEST
CHILLED. Caviar must be kept chilled. Store it in the coldest part of the refrigerator. If it’s allowed to get warm, both the flavor and texture deteriorate rapidly. Don’t freeze caviar; the eggs become mushy. And once caviar has been opened, it should be eaten within two or three days.

SERVED. For best results, remove the tin from the refrigerator and embed the tin in a bowl of crushed ice for about 30 minutes before serving time, but don’t open until ready to serve. Don’t use a metal serving spoon. A plastic spoon works fine unless you own a mother-of-pearl caviar spoon. Put the spoon in the caviar vertically so it doesn’t crush the eggs.

ACCOMPANIED BY. Serve ice-cold vodka, champagne, or dry white wine. For a nice touch, serve the vodka in shot glasses nestled in their own bed of ice.

FISH EGGS 101
No matter how fancy the script on a restaurant’s bill of fare, both caviar and roe are fish eggs. Harvested from freshwater and saltwater species, rules and regulations determine whether the eggs are to be labeled caviar or roe. To be legally designated "caviar," the product must be eggs from sturgeon species found in the Caspian Sea, specifically beluga, osetra, sevruga, or sterlet. Any other product should contain the name of the fish, followed by "roe" as in American paddlefish roe. Occasionally, products will be listed as alternative or domestic caviar, but the container should still specify the name of the fish. The following varieties are available under several different labels.

CAVIAR
Beluga. The most expensive caviar comes from the beluga sturgeon, the largest fish in the sturgeon family. The caviar ranges from light gray to nearly black and is graded "0" for the darkest berries to "000" for pearly gray. Although the color doesn’t always signify the best taste, grade "0" is preferred by many caviar experts. The eggs are large and soft.

Osetra. Also labeled oscietre and ossetra, osetra is a medium-sized caviar. The color varies from gray to brown to gold. The flavor also may vary from tin to tin, depending on what the fish has been eating, and is usually a bit stronger than beluga.

Sevruga. The least expensive caviar from the Caspian Sea, sevruga has the smallest berries and the strongest flavor. The eggs are gray.

Sterlet. This sturgeon species is almost extinct and the caviar is seldom available. In the past, this small-grained, golden caviar was very expensive and reserved for royal families.

ROE OR DOMESTIC CAVIAR
American Paddlefish Roe. The paddlefish is the most common American sturgeon and also is called a spoonbill. The roe is harvested from fish in the Great Lakes area, Louisiana, and from waters in the Tennessee Valley. The roe is small-grained and gray.

Carolina Trout Roe. Trout from the Carolinas produce medium-sized red-orange berries that are reasonably priced.

Golden Whitefish. The whitefish produces small golden berries that are used frequently as a garnish. The roe also is called American Golden.

Lumpfish. Tiny hard eggs are harvested from the lumpfish and may be either red or black.

Salmon Roe. The large, red berries produced from Alaskan salmon are showy with a mild flavor.