By W. R. Tish
Photography by Colleen Duffley

To its fans, Chardonnay is liquid gold: creamy in texture … dripping with pear, apple, even tropical fruit … rounded out with buttery nuances and toasty complexity. To its foes, the wine is just so much sweet oak juice.

And to the levelheaded wine observer, it is both.

Chardonnay is a moving target, capable of tapping dozens of aroma and flavor buttons along its stylistic stretch from light aperitifs to big woody monsters. Wine labeled Chardonnay might come from a huge steel tank where it was infused with wood chips. Or it might come from a barrel, where it was fermented and left sur lie (i.e. "on the lees") to gain complexity from the spent yeast cells.

While the most sublime expressions of the Chardonnay grape arguably hail from the Burgundy region of France, it was California that put the wine over the top — in popularity and style. "A glass of Chardonnay" became a chic cocktail in the 1970s. During the ’80s, the barrel-fermented, slightly sweet Kendall-Jackson — aka K-J — became a household word, spawning scores of imitators. In the ’90s,

Chardonnay surpassed White Zinfandel as America’s favorite wine, and vintners up and down the Golden State were planting, grafting, and blending it as fast as they could. The rest of the world kicked in a few (hundred) new bottlings, and now we have so many that even ardent followers are apt to wonder: Will the real Chardonnay please stand up?

With the aim of bringing some order to the chaos, and celebrating its delicious diversity, here are some bite-sized pieces that touch on Chardonnay in all its guises, with a special nod toward California.

OLD WORLD ROOTS
One obvious difference between white Burgundies and Chardonnays from the New World is that French labels give the appellation, or place of origin, top billing. This distinction embodies the French philosophy that wines reflect their terroir, or sense of place, more than they represent a grape.

There is some stylistic consistency lurking within the maze of Burgundy place names. For instance, wines from the Mâconnais tend to be light, crisp, and appley; Meursaults are fuller-bodied and often nutty; wines from Chablis tend toward steely acidity and palpable minerality. At the pinnacle, rare Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet offer storied richness, complexity, and longevity.

Specific Burgundian vineyards with a track record of superiority may be designated as Grand Cru or Premier Cru. However, many wine experts advise selecting Burgundies based on the producer. Some reliable and well-distributed names include: Bouchard Père & Fils, Joseph Drouhin, Louis Jadot, Laroche, Louis Latour, Olivier Leflaive, and Verget.

Compared with regions where sunshine is the norm, grapes in Burgundy’s cool climate have to work to ripen; ultimately, the wines are leaner and less aggressive than more "fruit-forward" New Worlders. But the catch with making wine from ripe-ripe-very-ripe grapes in places such as California is that the extra sugar has to go somewhere — either into bigger, fuller-bodied wines, or wines with residual sugar. Too much alcohol or sweetness can be limiting at the table. Well-made white Burgundies — at once elegant, focused, and crisp — are especially versatile with food.

JUDGMENT BY THE (BACK) LABEL
When Vineyard Outlet opened its doors in the town of Napa, California, earlier this year, proprietor Erica Valentine stocked 50 Chardonnays from all parts of her native California as well as Europe, South America, and Down Under. Apropos of the store’s tagline — "wine without attitude" — some bottles get wall displays, but many more are stacked on the floor, right in their original cardboard boxes. In assessing Chardonnay’s enduring popularity, Valentine says, "What California has going for it is consistently abundant fruit with softer acids."

But that is a baseline, she cautions, as the "winemaker’s spice cabinet can direct the taste and style." Indeed, Chardonnay is often called a winemaker’s wine because it is so easily manipulated. When these terms appear on the back label, you might think of them as clues to what’s in the bottle.

• Barrel fermentation. By fermenting and aging directly in small oak barrels, vintners aim to pick up distinct flavors, particularly vanilla, clove, nuts, and, of course, oak. Barrels also allow slight aeration (a good thing).
• Lees contact. Dead yeast cells from fermentation are often left in the barrel to add richness; the French call this sur lie.
• Malolactic fermentation. This secondary, induced process converts a wine’s tart malic acid (think Granny Smith apples) into milder, creamier lactic acid (think dairy). Widespread in California, this technique is largely responsible for the buttery character in many Chards. Some people feel that full malolactic fermentation makes Chardonnay too "flabby," and, in fact, many wineries use only partial malolactic.
• Oak barrel aging. Several variables come into play here — the source of the oak, the age of the barrels, and the level of "toast" applied when barrels are coopered and charred. Wineries tend to employ a combination of new and used barrels.

The "winemaker’s spice cabinet" serves as a reminder that a Chard is not a Chard is not a Chard. When winemakers turn to various enriching techniques to complement their ripe, opulent grapes, the bottom line is balance: Is the fruit in sync with the acid and the wood? Just as important, one person’s touch of oak is another person’s two-by-four. Back labels notwithstanding, a knowledgeable merchant or sommelier can be a great resource in accounting for distinctions in style.

CALIFORNIA DREAM REGIONS
The best places in California to grow Chardonnay generally are not far from the coast, where warm sunny days foster ripening and cool nights help retain the tang of acidity. Here are some wines that deliver the goods and are fairly easy to find.

• Carneros. Acacia, Beaulieu Vineyard (BV), Buena Vista, Gloria Ferrer, Saintsbury, Shafer.
• Monterey/Central Coast. Bernardus, J. Lohr, Meridian, Morgan.
• Napa Valley. Beringer, Cakebread, Far Niente, Flora Springs, Grgich Hills Cellars, Robert Mondavi, St. Supéry,
Staglin.
• Santa Maria/Santa Barbara. Au Bon Climat, Byron, Cambria, Fess Parker.
• Sonoma County. Arrowood, Benziger, Chateau Souverain, Clos du Bois, Ferrari-Carano, Hanzell, Iron Horse, Jordan, Simi, Sonoma-Cutrer, Rodney Strong.

CULT TROPHIES
The pursuit of "cult" wines is not as feverish as it was pre-millennium, and Cabernets remain the hottest tickets, but there are a few Chardonnays that command must-have status. According to Michael Densen of D. Sokolin Co., a New York retailer that specializes in collectibles, the holy Trinity of California cult Chards is Kistler, Marcassin (Helen Turley), and Peter Michael. Among labels that have fallen back to earth, says Densen: Chalk Hill, Talbott, and Matanzas Creek.

And might today’s critics’ pets be tomorrow’s cult idols? If so, keep an eye out for Paul Hobbs, Hyde de Villaine, Kongsgaard, Mer Soleil, Patz & Hall, and Ramey.

UNDER THE RADAR
Here are some solid Chards that don’t get name-dropped enough: Gallo Sonoma, Geyser Peak, Gundlach-Bundschu, Rutherford Ranch, Wente.

La Crema is one of several wineries promising to put the sub-region of Sonoma Coast on the Chardonnay map.

WHAT’S NEXT?
• Micro wines. Nickel & Nickel, a spin-off of Far Niente, is pioneering sets of small-batch single-vineyard varietal wines; their first Chardonnays are John’s Creek and Truchard, each is well-crafted and distinctive. Kendall-Jackson is on a similar mission, coaxing "Great Estates" limited bottlings out of its vast vineyard sources.
• Extreme wines. As in extremely manipulated. Marimar Torres Estate has released a "Dobles Lias" Chardonnay; the name is Spanish for "double lees" and refers to the extra lees contact given to this batch. If there were ever any doubt that Chardonnay is a "designer" wine, the next few years should clear that up.
• Splendid blendeds. Sterling’s impeccably balanced 2001 Chardonnay proudly lists a breakdown of grapes from Napa (62 percent), Sonoma (13 percent), and Mendocino counties (25 percent) on the front label. On the boutique end, consider Landmark’s 2001 "Overlook" Chardonnay, bearing fruit from 24 vineyards, one third from Sonoma Valley, the rest from Russian River, Monterey, Carneros, Sonoma Valley, and Alexander Valley. Fancy that!

ON/OFF THE CHARDWAGON
Chardonnay has become, to some extent, a victim of its own success, but both supply and demand remain strong. The question of whether the world’s proverbial Chardonnay glass is brimming with promise or overflowing with excess is perhaps best debated over a flute of blanc de blancs Champagne made, mais oui, from all Chardonnay grapes.

AT THE TABLE
Chardonnay’s richness can be an advantage at the table. The trick lies in finding foods whose textures and/or flavors echo the wine. Lobster, crab cakes, scallops, and shrimp are classic partners; among fish, think hefty, such as salmon, monkfish, sea bass, and swordfish. Chicken and pork are good bets, and any dish featuring bacon can be a revelation with a big, smoky Chard. Butter and cream sauces naturally complement many Chardonnays. Friendly herbs and spices include basil, garlic, nutmeg, mustard, saffron, and tarragon. Corn, fennel, pumpkin, avocado, sweet peppers, and mushrooms are compatible. Cheese choices include Brie, fontina, Gruyère, jack, and mozzarella; for nuts, try hazelnuts or pecans.

BY THE NUMBERS
Chardonnay accounted for 27 percent of the dollars spent on wine in the United States in 2002 — almost as much as Merlot (15 percent) and Cabernet Sauvignon (13 percent) combined.

• According to an annual survey by Wine & Spirits magazine, one out of every five bottles of wine ordered in restaurants is Chardonnay.
• A Google search of the word "Chardonnay" returns more than 1.5 million results in .33 seconds.

CHARD-ALTERNATIVES
Critics have championed "ABC" wines — "Anything But Chardonnay/Cabernet" — in recent years. Here are a few fleshy white wines that are apt to strike the right chord:

• Napa Wine Cellars Pinot Blanc. Mouthfilling intensity and complexity (green apple, vanilla, spice); from organic vineyards.
• Eroica. A regular on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list, this Washington state collaboration between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen of Germany is dry, full-bore Riesling at its best.
• Spanish Albariño. From the coastal region of Rias Baixas, it’s simply seafood’s best buddy.
• Vinum Cellars CNW Cuvée. The CNW stands for Chard-No-Way; 100 percent Chenin Blanc, a bright, fruity revelation.

OTHER WORLDLY CHARDONNAYS
• Australia. Devil’s Lair, Grant Burge, Leeuwin Estate, Penfolds, Wolf Blass.
• Chile. Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre.
• Italy. Jermann, Ca’ del Bosco, Planeta.
• Long Island. Schneider.
• New Zealand. Kemblefield.
• Washington. Château Ste. Michelle, Woodward Canyon.

WINE FOR THE AGERS
For white wines to cellar well, it helps to have a backbone of acidity (nerveux, the French like to say) to support the fruit over time as nutty and/or minerally qualities emerge. High-end Burgundies have a big advantage here, but notable California exceptions include Stony Hill, Far Niente, Hanzell, and Kistler.

W. R. Tish, based in the New York area, keeps busy leading private and corporate wine tastings, and working on a book of food humor. He can be reached at Tish@wineforall.com.