REALLY, REALLY, REALLY GREAT THINGS ABOUT THE BIG ISLAND OF HAWAI’I

Compiled by Patricia Baldwin.

You probably learned in elementary-school geography that the Island of Hawai‘i is the largest of the Hawaiian chain (large enough to house the other islands combined) — hence, the nickname Big Island. But stats, textbook descriptions, and brochure superlatives will not prepare you for this destination that provides a kaleidoscope of experiences. It’s a tagline, but it’s true: There’s really no place like it on earth. And it’s trite, but it’s true: There is something for everyone.

The island’s diversity starts with its terrain — a land of extremes and contrasts. Its west, or leeward, side boasts vast, ebony lava deserts, punctuated by the emerald oases of the luxurious, master-planned resorts of the northern Kohala Coast. The island’s east, or windward, side is lush with tropical rain forests and verdant valleys. You can snow ski atop Mauna Kea, the world’s tallest mountain, and snorkel in the Pacific Ocean later the same day, thanks to 11 climatic regions. The diversity extends to the island’s rich mosaic of peoples who are as much East as they are West. Thus, the island has the feel of a place that is familiar, yet foreign, at the same time.

Like a trip to any tropical paradise, you can sun-worship your day away on a beautiful beach by the azure ocean. And like a trip to any of the Hawaiian islands, you can experience lu-‘aus, leis, the hula, water sports, and shopping. But unless you get out and explore a bit, you’ll miss the Big Island’s truly unique sense of place. More than any other Hawaiian island, Hawai‘i retains much of the chain’s mythic past. Hawaiian culture, folklore, and traditions blend into day-to-day life and activities. Even when you play golf until you drop on the island’s 20 golf courses (and counting), you’ll encounter ancient heiau (temples), rock walls, burial grounds, and petroglyphs (rock carvings that tell the story of the island’s first inhabitants). So many people, places, and things make the Big Island a special destination that perhaps the best way to glimpse this island is in small pieces. ...

GOLF LORE
The golf courses along the famed Kohala Coast are notorious for their lava features. The lava that lines many of the fairways is ready to swallow up errant shots. But folklore provides some hope. Dennis Rose, Mauna Lani Resort’s director of golf, and Scott Bridges, Mauna Kea Resort’s head golf professional, confirm that mischievous Menehune (small Hawaiian Leprechauns) still walk these ancient lands. And every now and then, an errant golf shot hit deep into the lava fields suddenly, and for no known reason, bounces back into the middle of the fairway. Some call it luck; both Rose and Bridges call it the work of Moke the Menehune. So if you see your ball heading toward the lava fields, don’t swear, just implore "Help, Moke!"

MEMORABLE PAR-3’s
Since its opening in 1964, Mauna Kea Golf Course, designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr., has garnered numerous awards. Yet, the most anticipated hole of your round will be the famed par-3 third hole, which absolutely lives up to its credits. Here, the surging Pacific inlet water races to meet the rocky shoreline, affording one of the most breathtaking views in the world of golf. And, whatever tees you play, pull out your camera and take a few shots from the elevated 261-yard Championship markers. Ballflight: Directly over the ocean. Note: Each of Mauna Kea’s par-3 holes surpasses 200 yards from the tips.

At 164 yards from the Mahope (back) tees, distance is not the problem at the 17th hole on the Jack Nicklaus Signature Course at Huala-lai Golf Club. However, when the surf is up and crashing, maintaining your focus can prove quite challenging when playing to this huge green. And the scenery is simply spectacular.

CHIP SHOTS
• The Big Island claims the title of Golf Capital of Hawai‘i. Its gentle trade winds make the game a year-round sport.

• At Huala-lai Golf Club’s Jack Nicklaus Signature Course, the 12th tee is elevated to give golfers a good view of the par-3’s large green — with a sand bunker in the middle of it. Nicknamed the "Bear Trap," this design creates multiple pin placements, resulting in a variety of tee shot requirements.

• Speaking of bears, Huala-lai’s golf course starter is a colorful and loquacious character named "Brown Bear," who picked up the nickname about a decade ago. (Hey, Jack already had claimed "Golden Bear.")

• Kudos to the Francis H. I‘i Golf Courses (North and South) at Mauna Lani Resort for the use of solar electric golf carts.

• And local rules read like no place else. Check ’em out. Typically, lava areas are played as lateral hazards. And, please, don’t disturb the spirits (or bones) in the lava tubes.

PRIVATE GOLF
Known for the Desert Highlands and Desert Mountain golf communities in Scottsdale, Arizona, the Lyle Anderson Company is building Ho-ku-li‘a along a secluded three-mile stretch of the Big Island’s coast. The golf community is near the historic landmark of Kealakekua Bay, where English explorer Captain James Cook landed in 1778. The land, which has gone nearly untouched for more than 200 years, remains home to petroglyphs, monuments, and sacred burial grounds. Head golf professional Jason Walter explained that great care was taken in situating the Jack Nicklaus-designed, 18-hole championship course among the Hawaiian treasures and landmarks, such as Red Hill where, he says, King Kamehameha’s grandmother is buried. The hilltop also serves as a beacon to fishermen looking for the island’s best deep-sea fishing area. The clubhouse is under way (fall ’04 completion) and homebuilding also has begun in Ho-ku-li‘a. First-phase, one-acre homesites range from $1.2 million to $3 million, which includes club membership. (www.hokulia.com)

And the first nine holes are being played on the Tom Weiskopf-designed golf course at Huala-lai at Historic Ka‘u-pu-lehu. The course will be the focal point of a yet-to-be-named private club. A second nine is scheduled for completion in mid-2004, and a clubhouse is on the drawing board. Huala-lai director of golf John Freitas notes that construction schedules have to take into account the inevitable unearthing of lava tubes that often contain ancient burial grounds that must be preserved. Freitas is pictured above by such a lava tube behind the eighth green of the new Weiskopf course.

KE‘ANO KOLEPA (Spirit of Golf)
Darrin and Darien Gee operate their golf and wellness company, called Ke‘ano Kolepa from the Mauna Lani Resort. They take a holistic approach to their golf schools and focus specifically on the "inner" aspects of the game. The methodology, developed by Darrin, is based upon "Seven Spiritual Principles of Golf." Their curriculum also includes spa and wellness segments such as Tai Chi for golfers and a Spirit of Golf massage. (www.spiritofgolfhawaii.com)

GRAFFITI, BIG ISLAND STYLE
Locals say the natural graffiti started decades ago and its origin is sketchy. But today, the highways are lined with black lava rocks bearing messages pieced together by chunks of white coral. Love it or hate it.

AHI AT EVERY TURN
You’ll never want a hot dog at the halfway house again once you’ve tasted an ahi musubi at Huala-lai Golf Club. It’s a delicious variation of the Spam musubi, which is to Hawai‘i what a taco is to Mexico. The traditional, local version starts with grilled Spam, which is wrapped in Sushi rice and Nori seaweed. The Huala-lai style of the sandwich wrap substitutes seared ahi for the Spam. Accompaniments include soy sauce for dipping and a touch of ginger. … And try the ahi tacos at the oceanfront Canoe House restaurant at Mauna Lani Resort. (By the way, Mauna Lani’s ongoing Culinary Conversations program affords foodies the opportunity to get up-close-and-personal with visiting world-renowned chefs.)

FLYING HIGH
Do not, repeat, do not visit the Big Island without getting a whirlybird view of its vast geography and natural wonders via a tour by Blue Hawaiian Helicopters. There are a variety of itineraries. Most encompassing is the two-hour Big Island Spectacular, whose route includes the two distinct sides of the island. Your journey will include views of the famed lava flows, black sand beaches, the rain forest of the Hamakua coast, and the deep and immense valleys of the Kohala Mountains with their dozens of cascading waterfalls. Blue Hawaiian Helicopters also deserves recognition for its role in developing and expanding its fleet with state-of-the-art Eco-Star helicopters. The Eco-Star is the first helicopter to be designed specifically for touring. It’s 50 percent quieter than other touring helicopters and far more efficient, using 25 percent less engine horsepower. (www.bluehawaiian.com)

FIRE & ICE
The Big Island is a place of fire and ice. The inactive volcanoes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa are its two tallest topographical features, rising 13,796 and 13,677 feet, respectively, above sea level. Their icy peaks offer skiers and snowboarders a winter playground. The fire? The awe-inspiring eruptions of Ki-lauea, the world’s most active volcano that constantly adds lava to the sea and more acres to the shoreline. Eruptions take place in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, where the park service has set up viewing areas to provide safe and unforgettable viewing experiences.

WATERFALLS
One of the most stunning nature experiences you can have on the Big Island is Hawaii Forest & Trail’s Valley Waterfall Adventure, a half-day, guided hike into the heart of the lush Pololu- Valley. Ask for Danny Almonte, an informative and entertaining guide who has been with Hawaii Forest & Trail since its inception in 1993. You’ll walk along a cliffside trail about 1,000 feet above the valley floor, passing multiple waterfalls. (And, as Danny is pictured here, you can stand behind the magnificent Kapoloa Falls as the water cascades 500 feet over the trail.) The breathtaking views provide some of the best photo opportunities on the Island. The company offers eight other small-group adventures that showcase the Big Island’s diversity and allow visitors to explore the unique ecosystems. (www.hawaii-forest.com)

ALOHA WEAR
Kane Malia, one of the 50 unique shopping experiences located in the Kings’ Shops of Waikoloa Beach Resort, accommodated curiosity by providing "The Hawaiian Shirt Story." It seems that the colorful, classic "Aloha Shirt" first appeared in the 1930s when Ellery Chun, an inventive clothing manufacturer attempted to revive his sagging sales by fashioning shirts from the most vibrant, bold tropical fabrics he could acquire. The remarkable art form continues stronger than ever today.

Tommy Bahama has definitely invaded the Island with his casual fashion and "latitude of attitude." (Footnote: Did you know that Tommy is not a real person but a fictional character devised by the three brand founders?) Also look for the original textile prints by acclaimed Island designer Sig Zane. Choose from aloha wear, hats, and bags at his Hilo shop, Sig Zane Designs.

Of course, a Polynesian sarong is a must-have for women who intend to lounge on the beach. The wrap is a simple two yards of material. The secret of styling is in the tying. Another shopping tip: It’s worth the drive inland from the Kohala Coast to Waimea to visit Cook’s Discoveries for a varied and distinctive selection of upscale apparel and souvenirs.

BEACHES
Some say the beach at the Mauna Kea Resort is the best in the world. And, although there are obviously other contenders for the title, who’s to argue with the wisdom of hotelier Laurance S. Rockefeller. More than 37 years ago, he chose a patch of black lava on the North Kohala Coast to create this resort that literally introduced the jet-set crowd to the Big Island. Although now owned by Seibu Inc. and operated by Prince Resorts Hawaii, Mauna Kea remains a Rockefeller legacy, housing 1,600 pieces of his art — a collection that includes an imposing seventh century, pink granite Buddha. (Don’t miss the Thursday art tour.)

ISLAND SOCIETY
Island Society members can book tee times in advance at a variety of clubs throughout Hawai‘i. For more information about member golf privileges and other Society benefits, visit www.islandsociety.com or call Ann Vasconcellos, Society manager, at 808.536.4860.

CULINARY WAVE
If pineapple and macadamia nuts come to mind at the mention of Hawaiian cuisine, think again and take a close look at chef Roy Yamaguchi’s new cookbook, Hawaii Cooks (Ten Speed Press). In the early 1990s, he was one of the chefs from several of the Hawaiian islands who began a revolution they called "Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine." Their goal was to embrace traditional Hawaiian foods and encourage local farming and aquaculture. Yamaguchi has since transformed his love of traditional ingredients into what he calls "Euro-Asian" cuisine.

BOUNTY FROM THE LAND
The Big Island is home to Kona coffee, cocoa plantations, and more than 450 cattle ranches, most notably the Parker Ranch, one of the largest working cattle ranches in the country. There are acres of orchid farms. And the island’s papaya farms provide most of the state’s production. There’s even a winery in Volcano.

FAMILY FIRST
Hawai‘i’s Big Island understands the importance of ‘ohana (family). Favorite games include ko-nane (Hawaiian checkers) and ‘ulu maika (Hawaiian bowling). Many resorts offer award-winning children’s programs. For example, there’s Camp Menehune at Hilton Waikoloa Village, an adult-supervised daytime activities program. And the Keiki Aloha program at the Fairmont Orchid sounds like too much fun just to be limited to ages 5 through 12. Activities include sand-castle building, lei making, petroglyph hikes, snorkeling, and more.

FISH STORIES
Learn to say opakapaka before heading to the Big Island. This pink snapper, found in the depths of Hawaiian waters, is moist and mild flavored. Brown’s Beach House’s version is crab crusted and sautéed — delicious. What wouldn’t be in this seemingly perfect outdoor dining setting at the Fairmont Orchid. But perhaps perfect is not enough — Brown’s Beach House is slated for renovations in late September. Changes will include new menu items, a show kitchen and separate delicatessen, a new trellis, and a cultural motif. The renovations will be completed in late fall.

GUAVA
In early summer, guava fruit was just ripening in the Pololu- Valley. But still a treat to pick and eat. To make a delicious smoothie, combine guava nectar with strawberries, part of a banana, and soy milk.

FOR IRONMEN ONLY
The Ironman Triathlon World Championship will celebrate its 25th anniversary when the competition begins Oct. 18. Held annually in Kona, this endurance event is considered the ultimate test of physical and mental toughness. Comprised of a 2.4-mile ocean swim, a 112-mile bicycle ride through scorching lava fields, followed by a 26.2-mile run, the event will bring some of the fittest athletes in the world to the Big Island. (www.ironmanlive.com)

LOOKING FOR LOVE
Attention, single women: A wild orchid pinned behind your left ear signifies you’re taken; the right side shows you’re still looking.

LOMILOMI — PLUS
Spa magazine recently named the Lomilomi Hula for two at the Mauna Lani Spa as the "sexiest" spa treatment in Hawai‘i. (Lomilomi, of course, is the ancient Hawaiian massage that was passed through generations of families. The technique begins with a prayer and employs the use of forearms and elbows to create a vigorous kneading effect.) At Mauna Lani, the massage strokes are choreographed to Hawaiian music. In other words, it’s sort of like having the hula done on your body. But it’s the setting that deserves awards. The two-steam-shower thatched bungalow has a private plunge pool, butler service, and tropical fishpond. And, it is close to the Lava Sauna, an open-air sauna where you’ll also feel the warmth of ‘ili‘ili stones under your feet.

ROOMS WITH A VIEW (AND MORE)
Landscaped walks leading to the private entrances of the low-rise bungalows give an intimate and homey feel to the guest rooms and suites at Four Seasons Resort Huala-lai at Historic Ka‘u-pu-lehu. The special amenities are too numerous for this space, but note — reserve a room with an outdoor shower garden. And treat yourself to dinner at Pahu i‘a, the resort’s signature restaurant. The cuisine is contemporary Pacific. But the centerpiece is a giant aquarium (pahu i‘a in Hawaiian) that provides a luminous stage for yellow tangs and blushing pink wrasses. (www.fourseasons.com/hualalai)

Although the Fairmont Orchid has 539 luxurious rooms, this hotel located within the Mauna Lani Resort community is friendly and intimate. Maybe it’s the good vibes — the land of Mauna Lani is considered among the "power points" of the planet, or a place where positive energies gather. So don’t mess with Mother Nature and remember that seaside yoga begins daily at 8 a.m. (www.fairmont.com/orchid)

At the affiliate Mauna Lani Bay Hotels and Bungalows, you can choose between ocean-view rooms or rooms that offer stunning views of the Mauna Kea volcano. Perfect for honeymooners are the five individual bungalows with private swimming pools and round-the-clock butler service. (www.maunalani.com)

Guest rooms and suites at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel feature furnishings of rattan and willow, perfectly fitting for this legendary resort hotel. Bathrooms have built-in cabinetry — just like at home. And, remember, Saturday is clambake night. (www.maunakeabeachhotel.com)

Want to entertain your family or friends in ultimate luxury? Reserve the Hapuna Suite, an 8,000-square-foot villa at Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. The two-story hideaway has a pool overlooking the sea, three bedrooms with private baths and lanais, a study or fourth bedroom, a full-service kitchen equipped for a gourmet chef, an elegant dining room, and a living room with floor-to-ceiling windows framed in teak that slide open to reveal views of white-sand Hapuna Beach. Of course, luxury has its price — the Hapuna Suite is $5,500-$7,000 per night, plus state taxes. (www.hapunabeachprincehotel.com)

Can’t make up your mind about accommodations? The Kohala Coast Resort Association makes research easy. (www.kohalacoastresorts.com)

MARK TWAIN IN HAWAII
A relatively unknown journalist named Samuel Clemens — known to us as Mark Twain — visited Hawai‘i in 1866. He was on an assignment for the Sacramento Union to explore the "Sandwich Islands" and write his impressions for an American audience. (His published letters and the lecture tour that followed his return to California took him from locally known journalist to nationally known author and lecturer.) When Twain visited Kealakekua Bay, the spot where Captain Cook landed, he wrote: "The setting sun was flaming upon it, a summer show was falling, and it was spanned by two magnificent rainbows. Two men who were in advance of us rode through one of these and for a moment their garments shone with a more than regal splendor. Why did not Captain Cook have taste enough to call his great discovery the Rainbow Islands?"

Aloha.