The wide variety of food harvested from the sea and lands of the Mediterranean is unique. Although the ingredients common to the area can be found in other parts of the world, it’s unusual that so many of the same foods are found in nearly all the countries that comprise the Mediterranean. Eggplant, zucchini, and tomatoes are garden staples. Herbs such as basil and oregano are as prolific as weeds. Olives and figs are grown almost everywhere, as are dates. Many families are able to raise sheep on hillside land, so lamb is more popular than beef. And because the countries have access to the sea, a varied assortment of seafood, including squid and octopus, is available.

"To appreciate Mediterranean food," says Frank Chiasera, executive chef at the Citrus Club in Orlando, Florida, "you have to understand that people eat what’s seasonal in the garden, what’s available from the sea, and what can be acquired locally. And generally, the preparation is not complicated or elaborate." Chef Frank says his real comfort zone in the kitchen is in Greek and Italian cooking. "It’s a pleasure for me to incorporate Mediterranean ingredients in our menu. It’s as easy as serving a fresh fish entrée with an olive salsa and fresh tomatoes. Add a salad of top-quality greens, feta cheese, and a light herb vinaigrette, and the meal takes on a Mediterranean feeling."

Terry Freehling, executive chef at Diamond Run Golf Club in Sewickley, Pennsylvania, also uses Mediterranean ingredients to add flavor to his recipes. "My two favorites are kalamata olives and capers," he explains. "Both have a distinct taste and can completely change a recipe. The pickled taste of capers complements lemon, which is frequently used in Mediterranean cooking. And I like to combine the pungent taste of the olives with things like tomatoes and cheese."

Italian, French, and Greek cooking might be more familiar than that of some of the other countries. World travel and the increasing availability of imported ingredients have sparked interest in food from places like Algiers, Corsica, and Morocco. "Our members are well-traveled and are comfortable with ingredients from the Mediterranean," Chef Terry observes. "We serve rack of lamb often and I like to serve a chunky mixture of dried cranberries and cherries alongside the lamb. Dried fruits are used in recipes nearly everywhere. Apricots are grown in Turkey and exported to many areas, including the United States."

Perhaps it is the combining of ingredients that contributes to the appeal of Mediterranean food. Although the ingredients might be similar, variations are endless, even in recipes found in more than one country. Moussaka, for instance, which makes good use of eggplant, can be made with either ground lamb or beef. Most versions layer the ingredients. Some are very simple; others are baked with a buttered phyllo crust.

Recipes made with paper-thin layers of phyllo dough, also called filo, are found in several Mediterranean countries and are popular items on Associate Club menus. "Anything made with phyllo is well received at our club," Chef Frank says. "Spanakopita is a favorite. What could be better than the flavors of feta cheese, spinach, and the buttery layers of phyllo? The creamy, yet crunchy, texture is great, and it’s fun to prepare and serve."

Pastry chef Erin Hernandez of Barton Creek Resort & Spa in Austin, Texas, also is a fan of phyllo. "In Greece and Turkey and other countries along the Mediterranean Sea," she says, "dessert is often very simple. Figs, dates, or other fruit are likely to be offered, rather than an elaborately decorated cake or confection. When a pastry is included, it is usually a light cheese pastry or a honey-sweetened dessert, such as baklava. And baklava is often served in the middle of the afternoon with strong coffee, instead of at the end of the meal."

Two other desserts are gelato and sorbet, both welcome in the heat of a Mediterranean summer as well as stateside. The Citrus Club kitchen boasts its own gelato machine and Chef Frank serves flavors including blackberry, sambuca, and coffee as an end to a meal. "We experiment with it all the time," he says, "and not just with berries and fruit. Mint is a popular flavor."

Even if one doesn’t own a gelato machine, it’s possible to experience the flavors of the Mediterranean without leaving home. Including favorites such as hummus and baklava, our chefs have provided recipes to help create an authentic Mediterranean dinner at home. Salud!

TIROPETES
Executive chef Kevin Phebus of the Westlake Club in Houston shares a Greek recipe for cheese-filled triangles.

• 1 package (16 ounces) phyllo dough, thawed overnight in the refrigerator
• 1 egg, beaten
• 8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
• 8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
• 6 green onions with tops, sliced
• 1⁄4 cup chopped parsley
• 1-1⁄2 sticks butter

Remove the thawed phyllo from the refrigerator and leave on the counter for 2 hours for it to reach room temperature.

Using a mixer, whip together the egg, cream cheese, and feta cheese. Fold in the onions and parsley. Spray two baking sheets with nonstick spray and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan. Skim off the solids and discard. Remove the phyllo dough from the package and place on the counter. Cover with plastic wrap and then a damp towel. Remove the dough one sheet at a time from the stack, keeping the remaining dough covered so it won’t dry out. Place a sheet of dough on the counter and beginning with the edges, brush the entire sheet lightly with melted butter. Place another sheet on top and brush it with butter. Cut the sheets lengthwise into 3 equal strips. Place a generous teaspoon of the cheese mixture on the end of a strip and fold the dough over into a triangle shape. Keep folding (like a flag is folded) until the end of the strip. Place seam-side down on the baking sheet and brush with melted butter. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

Bake about 25 minutes, until golden.

Yield: About 4 dozen triangles.

MOUSSAKA
Frank Chiasera, executive chef of the Citrus Club in Orlando, Florida, uses ground beef in his recipe for moussaka. Ground lamb also may be used.

• 4 tablespoons butter
• 2 pounds lean ground beef
• 3 onions, finely chopped (about 3 cups)
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1⁄4 cup red wine
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper
• 1⁄2 cup water
• 1⁄8 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1⁄4 cup bread crumbs
• 3 eggs, beaten
• 1⁄2 cup grated Romano cheese
• 3 large purple eggplants
• salt
• white sauce (recipe follows)

To prepare the meat sauce, melt the butter in a heavy sauté pan. Add the ground beef and onions and sauté until brown. Stir in the tomato paste and wine. Add the parsley, salt, pepper, and water. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the liquids have been absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. In a bowl, combine the cinnamon, bread crumbs, eggs, and cheese and set aside.

Peel the eggplants and cut into thin slices, just under 1⁄2 inch thick. Salt the eggplant. Place on paper toweling, in layers, on a baking sheet. Place another baking sheet on top of the eggplant and weight down with a heavy pan. Let the eggplant drain for

30 minutes.

While the eggplant drains, prepare the White Sauce and set it aside. Stir the cinnamon, bread crumbs, eggs, and cheese mixture into the cooled meat sauce. Taste for salt and pepper, adjust the seasoning, and set the sauce aside.

Preheat the broiler. Spray a baking sheet with nonstick spray. Arrange eggplant slices in a single layer on the sheet. Spray the eggplant lightly with nonstick spray. Broil close to the heat for about 5 minutes. Turn the eggplant over, spray again, and broil the other side about 5 minutes. Repeat with the remaining eggplant.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. To assemble the moussaka, spray a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with nonstick spray. Cover the bottom of the pan with a layer of eggplant, cutting some slices in half to fit as necessary. Cover with half of the meat sauce. Repeat with another layer of eggplant and the remaining sauce. Add one more layer of eggplant. Spread the White Sauce evenly over the top layer of eggplant. Bake about 45 minutes, or until golden. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

Yield: About 12 servings.

WHITE SAUCE

• 4 tablespoons butter
• 6 tablespoons flour
• 3 cups hot milk
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄4 teaspoon white pepper
• 1⁄8 teaspoon nutmeg
• 4 egg yolks, lightly beaten

Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add the flour, blending well. Remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the hot milk. Return to low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is smooth and has thickened. Stir in the salt, white pepper, and nutmeg. Stir a small amount of the sauce into the egg yolks. Add about 1 cup of sauce to the egg/sauce mixture and whisk until well blended. Whisk the egg mixture into the remaining sauce in the pan. Cook over very low heat, whisking constantly, for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

ROASTED GARLIC HUMMUS
Sous chef Matt Reid of the Westlake Club in Houston serves this hummus with wedges of pita bread.

• 2 cans (15 ounces) chickpeas (or garbanzo beans), drained
• 1⁄4 cup tahini (sesame seed paste)
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 4 large garlic cloves, roasted
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
• 1⁄2 teaspoon paprika
• 2 loaves pita bread, cut into wedges

To make the hummus, combine the chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and salt in a food processor. Process until smooth. Slowly add the olive oil. Transfer the hummus to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until serving time.

To serve, top the hummus with chopped parsley and a dusting of paprika. Serve as a dip with pita wedges.

Yield: About 3 cups.

EGGPLANT NAPOLEAN
Executive chef Terry Freehling of Diamond Run Golf Club in Sewickley, Pennsylvania, shares his favorite way to serve eggplant.

• 1 large purple eggplant
• 2 cups panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
• 1⁄2 teaspoon ground thyme
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dry oregano leaves
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• 1 cup flour
• 3 eggs, beaten
• oil for frying
• Marinara Sauce (recipe follows)
• 2 sliced tomatoes, grilled or broiled (8 slices)
• 4 slices provolone cheese

Peel the eggplant and cut into 1⁄2-inch slices. Place on a baking sheet on paper toweling and salt generously. Cover with another baking sheet and weight down with a heavy pan to let the eggplant drain for 30 minutes.

Combine the panko, thyme, oregano, and basil in a shallow dish. Dredge the eggplant in the flour, dip in the beaten eggs, and then coat with the panko mixture. Pour oil into a saucepan to a depth of 2 inches and heat until hot but not smoking. Fry the eggplant slices in batches without crowding, until golden.

To assemble the Napoleons, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray a square baking dish with nonstick spray. Layer a slice of eggplant, two tablespoons of the Marinara Sauce, and then a slice of tomato with more sauce. Repeat until there are 3 slices of eggplant and 2 slices of tomato on each stack, with eggplant being the top of the stack. Spoon Marinara Sauce over the top piece of eggplant and cover with the cheese. Bake about 10 minutes until the Napoleons are heated through and the cheese has melted.

Yield: 4 servings.

MARINARA SAUCE

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1⁄4 cup diced yellow onion
• 1⁄2 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 can (about 14 ounces) diced tomatoes
• 1 can (about 14 ounces) tomato puree
• salt and pepper
• 1⁄2 bunch of fresh basil, leaves only, chopped

Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until translucent. Add the tomatoes and the puree. Reduce the heat and simmer 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the chopped basil and simmer 10 minutes more.

BAKLAVA
Pastry chef Erin Hernandez of Barton Creek Resort & Spa in Austin, Texas, says her baklava recipe is user-friendly.

• 1 package (16 ounces) phyllo dough, thawed overnight in the refrigerator
• 16 ounces toasted walnuts (see note)
• 8 ounces toasted blanched almonds
• 8 ounces toasted blanched pistachios (see note)
• 2⁄3 cup light brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cloves
• 3 sticks unsalted butter, melted
• syrup (recipe follows)

Remove the thawed phyllo dough from the refrigerator and leave on the counter for 2 hours for it to reach room temperature.

Finely chop the walnuts, almonds, and pistachios in a food processor, working in batches. Place in a large mixing bowl. Add the brown sugar, cinnamon, and cloves and toss until mixed. Divide the mixture in half and set aside.

Spray a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with nonstick spray. Lay the phyllo dough out on the counter and cover with plastic wrap and a damp towel. Remove the dough one sheet at a time from the stack, keeping the remaining dough covered so it won’t dry out. Place a sheet of dough in the baking dish and brush with melted butter. Repeat the process until you have 12 layers of dough. Sprinkle evenly with half of the nut mixture. Add 8 more sheets of buttered phyllo. Sprinkle with the remaining nuts. Cover with 12 more sheets of buttered phyllo. Brush the top layer very generously with butter. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate the pan of baklava for a half hour.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Using a very sharp knife, cut through the layers of baklava lengthwise five times. Then cut diagonally to form diamonds. This should yield about 50 pieces of baklava.

Bake about 45 minutes, until golden. Prepare the syrup while the baklava is baking.

NOTES: To toast the nuts, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Spread the walnuts out on a baking sheet and bake about 6 minutes, stirring every couple of minutes. Cool before processing. If the almonds are slivered, they will toast in 3 to 4 minutes. If blanched pistachios are unavailable, substitute pecan halves and toast about 5 minutes.

SYRUP

• 24 ounces honey, preferably orange blossom (see note)
• 2 cups water
• 2 cups sugar
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 3 whole cloves
• 1 teaspoon grated orange peel

Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and let the syrup simmer about 10 minutes until it thickens slightly. Strain the syrup and pour evenly over the hot baklava. Let the baklava stand several hours before serving.

Leftover baklava should be covered and refrigerated. It may be brought back to room temperature before serving, but is also good served cold.

CHEF GUY’S MEDITERRANEAN PASTA FOR TWO
This pasta recipe was created by Guy Travota, sous chef at Diamond Run Golf Club in Sewickley, Pennsylvania.

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 anchovy fillets
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 2 teaspoons capers
• 12 kalamata olives
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 6 water-packed artichoke hearts, cut in half
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
• salt and pepper
• 6 ounces linguine or angel hair pasta, cooked
• grated Asiago or Romano cheese for garnish

Heat the olive oil in a small sauté pan. Add the anchovies and sauté until dissolved. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant. Reduce the heat. Add the capers, olives, red pepper flakes, and artichoke hearts, and cook about 5 minutes. Add the herbs, salt, and pepper. Toss with the cooked pasta and garnish with grated cheese.

Yield: 2 servings.

THE MEDITERRANEAN
The countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea and the islands within it are collectively referred to as the Mediterranean. It is a vast area, nearly 1 million square miles, with coastline along the continents of Europe, Asia, and Africa. It includes 21 countries, six large islands, and many smaller islands.

Most of us would be unable to cite the names of all these lands, although we can probably list Greece, Italy, France, and one or two more. Without a map, it might be difficult to remember that Monte Carlo, Monaco, Malta, and Morocco are part of the Mediterranean, as well as the islands of Sicily and Sardinia.

The Mediterranean Sea is referred to as a "closed" sea and has no hurricane or tidal problems within its waters or along its beaches.

The climate varies in the Mediterranean, of course, but it is a prime area for cruise ships and vacations and for enjoying the fabulous food of its countries.

PLAYING WITH FOOD
Match the names of these Mediterranean foods with their definition. Linger over the puzzle with a glass of retsina or ouzo.

1. Avgolemono
2. Moussaka
3. Dolmades
4. Courgettes
5. Tagine
6. Spanakopita
7. Aubergine
8. Meze
9. Tahini
10. Manti

A. Greek word for hors d’oeuvre
B. Moroccan stew cooked in a special earthenware pot
C. Eggplant
D. Turkish dumplings
E. Appetizer or entrée of rolled grape leaves stuffed with filling
F. Sesame seed paste
G. Entrée of sliced eggplant layered with ground beef or lamb, and covered with white sauce
H. Greek soup or sauce, both containing chicken broth, egg yolks, and lemon juice. The soup has rice added to it.
I. Small zucchini
J. Phyllo layered with spinach and cheese

Answers: 1-H, 2-G, 3-E, 4-I, 5-B, 6-J, 7-C, 8-A, 9-F, 10-D