Most of us will admit to a food craving once in a while, ignoring contemptuous looks from friends who aren’t dying for a chocolate bar or a bowl of cherry vanilla ice cream. As cravings go, however, neither chocolate nor ice cream can compare with the absolute, deep-down desire experienced by a hamburger fanatic. Desire doesn’t accurately describe the wanting, since it’s more like a need-for-a-burger fix. With apologies to vegetarians, we’re not talking veggie or tofu burgers here. And forget crab, salmon, tuna, lamb, and pork. We mean beef, and when a true follower wants a hamburger, nothing else will do.

A hamburger is a personal matter. No one vacillates when ordering, and most of us are adamant about bun preference, condiments, and extras like lettuce, tomato, and onion. Just the choice of mustard or mayonnaise can create problems. Although some people use both, most of us insist on one or the other and can be downright nasty when a burger is served incorrectly. We’ll tolerate some variety, Swiss instead of cheddar cheese perhaps, but a change from French’s Mustard to Grey Poupon will never happen on a burger made for a die-hard, yellow mustard fan.

One thing has changed. Rare and medium-rare burgers have all but disappeared since health officials determined that the threat of illness from E. coli bacteria can be prevented by simply cooking the meat until well-done. Executive chef Mike Gabrielson of the Piedmont Club in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, is serious about cooking hamburger meat properly. "In the first place, it’s safer," says Chef Gabe, "and in the second place, North Carolina state law now requires hamburger meat to be cooked medium-well. We don’t serve rare, medium-rare, or even medium burgers anymore. Once in a while, someone fusses," he adds, "but most people understand that it’s clearly a health issue."

Hamburgers are a staple on Associate Club menus, particularly clubs with casual restaurants, and members order them frequently. Executive chef Kevin Grafton of Hackberry Creek Country Club near Dallas says his Hackberry Creek Burger is the top-selling item on the club’s casual menu. "Hey, we’re in Texas and our members like burgers," he says. "We vary the extras we serve alongside, but the meat and the seasoning stay the same. I think everyone would be disappointed if we made a significant change in our hamburgers."

Texas isn’t the only state where burgers are popular. Executive chef Jeff Myers of the City Club of Washington at Franklin Square says hamburgers are high on his list, too. "We serve a lot of burgers," he says, "but this membership typically wants more than just a hamburger with cheese." To combat burger boredom, the chef initiated the Burger of the Week and every Monday a new hamburger appears on the club menu. "We season the meat with my, ahem … somewhat famous dry rub, and char-grill the hamburgers," he says. "Then we try to be innovative about the cheese, or the condiments, or whatever seems like a good idea. And so far, it’s working well." It’s a great concept for the members, and the chef’s combinations are popular. Favorite burgers include the Hawaiian Burger, with grilled pineapple, smoked ham, and Monterey Jack cheese, and Jeff’s Club Burger, a creation topped with smoked turkey, Black Forest ham, and a garlicky mayonnaise.

While we all have our own idea of the perfect hamburger, there’s always room for an updated version. The recipes that follow showcase special burgers from Associate Club chefs. And, yes, we’ll have fries with that.

BC MEXICAN BURGERS
Executive chef Phil Bouza of Barton Creek Resort & Spa in Austin, Texas, shares a popular recipe that was created by banquet cook Sergio Arrieta.

• 1-1⁄4 pounds ground beef, 80 percent lean
• salt and pepper
• 4 hamburger buns
• 2 tablespoons butter, softened
• 2 avocados, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced
• Pico de Gallo (recipe follows)
• 6 ounces shredded Monterey Jack cheese

Divide the ground beef into 4 portions and shape into patties. Salt and pepper both sides of the patties.

Preheat a gas grill, prepare a charcoal fire, or preheat a broiler. When the heat is ready, cook the patties until they reach the desired degree of doneness. Move the patties off the heat and place to the side to keep warm. Spread the hamburger buns with the softened butter. Grill or broil until lightly toasted.

To serve, place the patties on the buns, open-faced, and set on serving plates. Lay the avocado slices on the meat. Spoon 2 tablespoons Pico de Gallo on each burger. Top with the shredded cheese and serve immediately with condiments as desired.

Yield: 4 hamburgers.

PICO DE GALLO

• 1 cup chopped onion
• 3 medium tomatoes, seeded and diced
• 2 serrano chili peppers, seeded and minced
• 1/2 teaspoon fajita or steak seasoning
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro (no stems)

Mix the onions, tomatoes, and peppers in a nonreactive bowl. Sprinkle with the seasoning and pepper and stir to blend. Drizzle the lime juice over the mixture and stir. Add the cilantro. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least one hour.

BLACK ANGUS BURGERS WITH BEEFSTEAK TOMATOES AND CILANTRO MAYONNAISE
Created by executive chef Jeff Myers, these hearty burgers are a favorite of members of the City Club of Washington at Franklin Square in Washington, D.C.

• 1-1/2 pounds Black Angus hamburger, 80 percent lean
• Jeff’s Dry Rub (recipe follows)
• 4 hamburger buns, warmed
• 4 thick slices Havarti cheese
• 1 beefsteak tomato, cut in 4 slices
• 2 avocados, peeled, seeded, and sliced
• Cilantro Mayonnaise (recipe follows)

Divide the ground beef into 4 portions and shape into patties. Sprinkle generously with Jeff’s Dry Rub. Preheat a gas grill, prepare a charcoal fire, or heat the broiler. Cook the patties until they reach the desired degree of doneness.

Place the patties on the hamburger buns and cover each with a slice of Havarti cheese. Lay the tomato slices on top of the cheese and arrange the avocado slices over the tomato. Drop a generous helping of Cilantro Mayonnaise on top and serve at once.

Yield: 4 hamburgers.

JEFF’S DRY RUB

• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1 tablespoon pepper
• 1-1/2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
• 1 tablespoon dry thyme
• 1-1/2 teaspoons cumin
• 2 tablespoons granulated garlic
• 1 tablespoon coriander
• 2 tablespoons chili powder
• 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning

Whisk the ingredients together until well blended. Store in an airtight container. Chef Jeff uses this rub on steaks and hamburgers.

CILANTRO MAYONNAISE

• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh minced garlic
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves (no stems)

Combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice, and garlic, whisking to blend well. Fold in the cilantro. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

BUFFALO BURGERS
These burgers, made of Black Angus beef, are a creation of executive chef Jeff Myers of the City Club of Washington at Franklin Square and are named for a sauce also used on chicken wings.

• 1-1⁄4 pounds ground beef, 80 percent lean
• salt and pepper
• Buffalo Sauce (recipe follows)
• 4 hamburger buns
• Blue Cheese Dressing (recipe follows)
• 1 rib celery, peeled into thin shavings

Divide the ground beef into 4 portions and shape into patties. Salt and pepper both sides of the patties. Preheat a gas grill, prepare a charcoal fire, or heat the broiler.

Cook the patties, brushing frequently with Buffalo Sauce, until they reach the desired degree of doneness.

Place each patty on a hamburger bun and place open-faced on a serving plate. Spoon Blue Cheese Dressing onto each patty and garnish with shaved celery.

Yield: 4 hamburgers.

BUFFALO SAUCE

• 1/4 pound (1 stick) butter
• 2 tablespoons Tabasco green pepper sauce
• 1 tablespoon Tabasco red pepper sauce
• 1 tablespoon Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce or Thai chili paste

Melt the butter in a small saucepan and remove from the heat. Whisk in the two Tabasco sauces and the chili paste, blending well.

BLUE CHEESE DRESSING

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1-1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
• 3/4 teaspoon granulated garlic
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 tablespoons light beer
• 1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese

Whisk the mayonnaise and sour cream together. Add the Worcestershire sauce. In a separate bowl, mix the garlic, salt, and pepper together and then whisk into the mayonnaise mixture. Whisk in the beer, blending well. Gently fold in the blue cheese. Cover the dressing with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator.

HACKBERRY CREEK BURGERS WITH SAUTÉED GOLDEN ONIONS
Executive chef Kevin Grafton of Hackberry Creek Country Club near Dallas serves these mesquite-flavored burgers with a generous helping of blue cheese.

• 1-1/4 pounds ground beef, 80 percent lean
• Mesquite-Flavored Hamburger Spice (recipe follows)
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 medium yellow onions, peeled, quartered and julienned
• salt and pepper
• 4 large hamburger buns
• 4 ounces blue cheese, room temperature

Divide the ground beef into 4 portions and shape into patties. Sprinkle both sides generously with the hamburger spice. Preheat a gas grill, prepare a charcoal fire, or heat the broiler.

When the heat is nearly ready, melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until tender and beginning to turn golden, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to keep warm.

Cook the beef patties until they reach the desired degree of doneness. Place each patty on a hamburger bun and place open-faced on a serving plate. Top each burger with blue cheese. Serve the onions on top of the burger, or alongside, as desired by each guest.

Yield: 4 hamburgers.

MESQUITE-FLAVORED HAMBURGER SPICE

• 2 tablespoons kosher or sea salt
• 1-1/2 teaspoons mesquite seasoning
• 3/4 teaspoon Hungarian paprika
• 1-1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper
• 3/4 teaspoon granulated garlic
• 1-1/2 teaspoon steak seasoning

SOUR CREAM AND ONION BURGERS WITH ROASTED ANAHEIM CHILI PEPPERS
These burgers, a specialty of Kevin Grafton, executive chef of Hackberry Creek Country Club near Dallas, are frequently served to guests at the chef’s home.

• 1 pound ground beef, 80 percent lean
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1/2 packet of Lipton Onion Soup Mix (about 1-1/2 tablespoons)
• 3 fresh, green Anaheim chili peppers
• 4 hamburger buns

Crumble the ground beef into a mixing bowl. Gently mix in the sour cream and the dry onion soup mix. Shape into 4 patties and set aside.

Preheat a gas grill, prepare a charcoal fire, or preheat a broiler. Cook the whole chili peppers until the skin is blistered, turning with tongs to char both sides. Remove from the heat and wrap in paper toweling.

Place the patties on the heat and cook until they reach the desired degree of doneness. When the patties are nearly ready, use the tip of a knife to scrape the charred skin from the chili peppers. Cut the peppers into thin strips.

To serve, place the patties on the hamburger buns and place on serving plates. Top with the roasted pepper strips and serve with extras and condiments as desired.

Yield: 4 hamburgers.

HAMBURGER FAVORITES
It’s impossible to list everyone’s favorite hamburger combination, since we don’t all agree on how we like our burgers. However, we do have a few hamburger favorites:

Favorite Greasy Hamburger. From an old cookbook titled Bull Cook and Authentic Historical Recipes and Practices by George Leonard Herter (Herter Press, 1960): Heat butter in a frying pan until brown. Salt and pepper the hamburger patties. Fry them slowly in the butter, turning often, until done. Remove from the pan. Cook the buns on one side in the remaining butter and drippings in the pan.

Favorite Stolen Sauce. From the Griddle System restaurants of the 1950s, which had two Texas locations in Fort Worth and Dallas: Combine 1⁄3 cup ketchup, 1⁄3 cup mustard, and 1⁄3 cup dill relish. Smear over toasted hamburger buns. Refrigerate leftover sauce, if any.

Favorite Hamburger Harley. It’s a Harley-Davidson motorcycle with a trike conversion kit shaped like … a hamburger. The inspiration of Harry Sperl of Daytona Beach, Florida, this outrageous Harley is complete with bun, meat, lettuce, etc., and has ketchup bottles for shock covers. Pictures of the bike and Harry’s hamburger collectibles can be viewed online at www.burgerweb.com.

Favorite Hamburger Size. Junior’s of Brooklyn, which opened in the 1950s, is famous for its 10-ounce chopped beef chuck burger. The meat is shaped into a rectangle measuring 4-by-3-by-11⁄2 inches thick and cooked on a char-broiler. Cooks are instructed to turn it only once.

Favorite Hamburger Argument. Opinions differ on the origin of the first U.S. hamburger and where it was served. Many historians agree that one Fletch Davis of Athens, Texas, served the first ground beef patty sandwich at the World’s Fair in St. Louis in 1904. Dissidents near Seymour, Wisconsin, argue that in 1885 a hamburger sandwich was served at a concession stand at the Outagamie County Fair. The rest of us don’t really care about the official first burger; we’re just glad it was well received.

Favorite Stuffed Burger. Shape the meat into two thin patties. Place a layer of Brie cheese on one burger, leaving room along the outside edge. Cover with the other patty and pinch the edges to seal. Grill as desired and serve on a sourdough bun.

CHEFS’ TIPS FOR BETTER BURGERS
Executive chef Phil Bouza of Barton Creek Resort & Spa in Austin, Texas, has plenty of hamburger expertise since burgers are served at several restaurants at the resort. Start with the right meat, advises Chef Phil. "Ground round and ground sirloin are both sold as lean hamburger meat," he explains. "However, the meat is usually so lean that it results in dry hamburgers with little flavor." The chef laughs about a purveyor who wanted to sell him longhorn burgers. "OK, we’re in Austin," he says, "so I gave it a try. The meat was very good, but too lean to produce juicy hamburgers like we all want to eat." Regular ground beef has too much fat, says the chef, about 25 percent, and will shrink as it’s cooked. The best bet is ground chuck and it’s even better if ground fresh at the market. At 80 percent lean, ground chuck will produce juicy burgers with great flavor.

Chef Phil has three more tips for better burgers at home.

1. Handle the meat gently as it’s shaped into patties. Squeezing and pounding the patties flat will mean the cooked burgers are compact, crumbly, tough, and dry.

2. Don’t press on the patties while they’re cooking or they will lose both juice and flavor.

3. Homemade buns or those from a neighborhood bakery can mean the difference between a good hamburger and a great one.