Whether the big occasion is a birthday, wedding, anniversary, or even a going-away party, cake is always on the menu. Why? We like cake. It’s sweet, fattening, decadent, not good for us, and we love it! From pound cake to fancy multilayered confections covered with buttercream, there’s a cake for everyone.

Cakes differ depending on their heritage. Countries like France, Austria, Switzerland, and Germany are well-known for specialties such as Mocha Dacquoise and the syrup-soaked layers of a genoise. At The Homestead in Hot Springs, Virginia, executive pastry chef Michel Finel, who’s a native of Normandy, France, is certainly an authority on European cakes. "There are so many very good cakes," he says, "and perhaps a chef begins with a vanilla sponge cake, a genoise. It is the base, you see, and then by a change of the syrup or the addition of, say, chocolate ganache, it becomes a different cake." Although pastry students are taught certain fundamentals, he says, accomplished chefs are creative. "A classic cake in Switzerland," he continues, "may be very different when prepared by a pastry chef in France."

Cakes vary widely according to geography, and cakes that are favorites in one region might not be so well-known in other areas. The southern part of the United States has some wonderful cakes with names such as Lane Cake and Lady Baltimore Cake. Todd Richter, executive pastry chef at Pinehurst in the Village of Pinehurst, North Carolina, says one of his most popular cakes is Red Velvet Cake. "It’s truly a Southern specialty," Chef Todd says, "and it is so well-liked that I am frequently asked to use it as a wedding cake. It makes a beautiful bride’s cake, since it’s covered with white icing." Although Chef Todd prepares many traditional white wedding cakes, a surprising number of brides also choose his carrot cake for their wedding day. "When we prepare this for a wedding cake," he comments, "we use rolled fondant for the icing. It’s lovely decorated with fresh flowers."

Birthday cake might be more important than a wedding cake. From birthday one to birthday 100, we want a cake. No, we expect a cake. It’s not a birthday without one and almost everybody has a favorite cake that makes their day special. At the Tower Club in Dallas, executive chef John Maas serves personalized cakes to members on Birthday Night, an affair held once a month at the club. "Our most requested cake," he says, "is Strawberry Cream Cake. It’s a yellow cake, with strawberries between the layers, and a sweet whipped cream icing. It’s pretty, not too heavy to serve after a big meal, and our members love it."

Baking a cake at home is not nearly as intimidating as some beginners believe. Chef Todd offers a couple of tips. "Start with a recipe you can manage," he says. "If you are a novice, don’t begin by attempting a three-tiered cake and a cooked filling. Learn the basics with a batter cake that takes one bowl, and work up from there." Following directions is important, Chef Todd says, and measuring accurately is a must. "Cake-making is a science," he comments. "And the ingredients are the formula that allow a cake to rise, bake, and retain its shape when removed from the pan. Any deviation, no matter how small, can affect the cake."

Executive chef Jonathan Massey of the First City Club Savannah, Georgia, agrees. "There are two common problems in cake baking," Chef Jon advises. "One is incorrect pan size and the other is silly substitutions. Either one can cause a cake disaster." A typical mistake, he says, occurs when a novice baker switches baking powder for baking soda. "It just won’t work," he cautions. "The best bet is to use exactly what is called for in the recipe. It’s also difficult to change pan sizes. This can alter the amount and depth of the batter, and may completely change the baking time."

The chefs agree that baking a cake from "scratch" isn’t any more difficult than using a boxed mix. OK, they say, so you have to measure the flour and sugar. "Buy a set of measuring cups for both dry and liquid," Chef Todd suggests. "Read the recipe through before you start, assemble the pans and ingredients, and go for it. It’s just not that complicated."

To encourage baking at home, the chefs share recipes on the following pages that vary from easy (Brandied Peach Cake) to more challenging (Sacher Torte). All qualify as culinary adventures and the cakes are certainly worth the effort.

THE HOMESTEAD’S GERMAN CHOCOLATE CAKE
A recipe from executive pastry chef Michel Finel, this cake is one of the most popular desserts at The Homestead in Hot Springs, Virginia.

• 1/2 cup warm water
• 4 ounces bitter (unsweetened) chocolate, chopped
• 1/2 pound butter (2 sticks)
• 2-1/4 cups sugar, divided
• 4 egg yolks
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 2 cups cake flour
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 4 egg whites
• red food coloring
• German Chocolate Cake Filling and Frosting (recipe follows)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut circles of parchment paper to fit the bottoms of two round 10-inch cake pans. Grease the pans with shortening and place the paper inside each pan. Grease the papers. Dust the pans and papers lightly with flour.

Place the warm water in the top of a double boiler over simmering water. Add the chocolate. Watch carefully, not allowing chocolate to burn, stirring with a spatula until the chocolate melts. Turn off the heat.

Cut the butter into chunks and place in the bowl of an electric mixer. Beat until the butter is smooth and creamy. Gradually add 1-1/2 cups of the sugar, scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl frequently. Beat until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is creamy. Add the egg yolks one at a time, again scraping the bowl. Add the vanilla. With the mixer on low speed, add the melted chocolate.

In a separate bowl, sift the flour, salt, and baking soda together. Add the flour mixture alternately with the buttermilk, beginning with flour. Mix on low speed until well blended.

Place the egg whites and 3/4 cup sugar in a clean bowl and whip until soft peaks form. Add a few drops of red food coloring and beat just until blended. Use a spatula to gently fold the whites into the cake batter.

Pour into the cake pans and bake 20 to 25 minutes, or until the cake has begun to pull away from the sides of the pan and springs back when touched lightly in the center. Cool in the pans for 5 minutes. Invert onto cooling racks, remove the paper, and turn right-side up to cool completely. Fill and frost as directed.

GERMAN CHOCOLATE CAKE FILLING AND FROSTING

• 16 ounces evaporated milk
• 1 pound unsalted butter (4 sticks), sliced
• 2 cups sugar
• 6 egg yolks, lightly beaten
• 8 ounces chopped pecans (about 2 cups)
• 8 ounces unsweetened coconut (about 3-1/4 cups)
• 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla

Place the milk, butter, and sugar in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cook until thickened, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Place egg yolks in a mixing bowl. Add a small amount of the milk mixture to the egg yolks, whisking rapidly to temper the yolks. Add about 1 cup of the milk mixture to the yolks, again mixing well. Whisk the yolks into the milk mixture, mixing thoroughly. Return the pan to low heat and cook, stirring constantly, 2 to 3 minutes, until thickened and steam rises from the pan. Do not let the mixture boil. Remove from the heat and strain into a clean bowl. Stir in the pecans, coconut, and vanilla. Cool to room temperature.

Place one cake layer on a cake plate and spread with icing about 1/2-inch thick. Place the other layer on top, pressing down evenly to set the cake. Cover the top and sides with the remaining frosting.

Refrigerate the cake in an airtight container or wrapped in plastic. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.

STRAWBERRY CREAM CAKE
Create a special birthday cake at home with this recipe from executive chef John Maas of the Tower Club in Dallas.

• 2 pounds ripe strawberries
• 1/4 cup plus 1 cup sugar
• 1-1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons Kirschwasser or Chambord (optional)
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
• 3 eggs
• 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla
• 2 cups cake flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 cup milk
• Whipped Cream Frosting (recipe follows)
• white chocolate shavings (optional)

Reserve 4 small strawberries for garnish. Trim and discard the green tops off the remaining strawberries. Hull the berries, cut into slices, and place in a bowl. Toss gently with 1⁄4 cup of the sugar, the lemon juice, and the Kirschwasser or Chambord, if using. Cover and refrigerate the strawberries.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit the bottom of a round 10-inch cake pan. Use shortening to grease the sides and bottom of the pan. Place the paper in the pan and grease the paper. Dust the paper and the sides of the pan with flour.

Use an electric mixer and beat the butter and remaining 1 cup of sugar on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. Add the vanilla and beat until the eggs and vanilla are thoroughly incorporated, about 5 minutes. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add to the butter mixture alternately with the milk, beginning and ending with the flour and mixing on low speed. Mix just until the batter is smooth. Spread evenly in the prepared pan.

Bake 30 to 35 minutes, until a wooden pick inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan 5 minutes and invert on a rack. Remove the parchment paper and allow the cake to cool completely.

Invert the cake right side up. Use a long, straight-bladed knife and cut the cake horizontally into three layers (see note). Place a layer of cake on a cardboard round or a cake plate. Spoon half of the strawberries, including the liquid, evenly on the cake layer. Spread 1⁄4 of the frosting over the strawberries. Add the next layer of cake and repeat. Place the top layer on the cake and spread the remaining frosting on the top and sides of the cake. Cut the reserved strawberries into fourths or halves, leaving the green tops intact. Place strawberry pieces evenly around the top of the cake. Garnish with the chocolate shavings, if using. Refrigerate the cake at least one hour to chill completely.

To serve, cut the cake into pieces, placing the cuts between the strawberry garnishes. The cake is best when served the day it is prepared.

Note: Chef John advises that for easier preparation, novice bakers might want to divide the cake into just two layers. If so, use 1 pound of strawberries, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon of liqueur for one layer of filling.

• 1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
• 3 cups heavy cream

For the frosting, combine ingredients in a mixing bowl. Whip until it forms stiff peaks.

BRANDIED PEACH CAKE
Executive chef Jonathan Massey of the First City Club in Savannah, Georgia, serves slices of this cake garnished with fresh peaches and raspberries.

• 3 cups peeled, diced fresh peaches
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 6 tablespoons peach-flavored brandy
• 2-1/2 cups sugar
• 1-1/2 cups butter, melted
• 5 eggs
• 3 cups all-purpose flour, divided
• 1-1/2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1-1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
• 3/4 cup chopped pecans
• Brandied Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows)

Place the prepared peaches in a bowl and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Add the brandy and toss to coat the fruit. Refrigerate for two hours, stirring occasionally. Strain the mixture, reserving the brandy.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit the bottoms of three round 9-inch cake pans. Grease the pans with shortening, fit the paper into the pans, and dust the pans with flour.

Use an electric mixer to beat together the sugar, butter, eggs, and reserved brandy, mixing thoroughly. In a separate bowl, whisk together 2-1/2 cups of the flour, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. Add gradually to the sugar mixture, beating on low speed until blended. The batter will be thick. Place the pecans in the bowl with the peaches and sprinkle with the remaining flour. Stir to coat the fruit. Use a spatula to gently fold the fruit and nuts into the batter. Divide among the three cake pans.

Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool in the pans 10 minutes and invert on wire racks. Remove the parchment paper and cool completely. Cover each layer and the top and sides of the cake with icing. Refrigerate to set the icing. Store the cake, tightly covered, in the refrigerator and remove about 30 minutes before serving.

BRANDIED CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

• 12 ounces cream cheese, softened
• 12 tablespoons (3/4 cup) butter, softened
• 1 tablespoon peach-flavored brandy
• 2 teaspoons cold coffee
• 6 cups powdered sugar

Combine the cream cheese and butter, beating until smooth. Add the brandy and coffee. Add the sugar 1 cup at a time, mixing until smooth.

CARROT CAKE WITH CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
Executive pastry chef Todd Richter says this cake is a favorite at Pinehurst in the Village of Pinehurst, North Carolina.

• 1-1/4 cups vegetable oil
• 5 large eggs
• 1-3/4 cups sugar
• 2-1/2 cups bread flour
• 2-1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1 cup sweetened flaked coconut
• 1/2 cup dark raisins, chopped
• 2 cups grated carrots
• Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour two round 9-inch cake pans.

Using an electric mixer with a paddle attachment, mix the oil and eggs until well combined. In a separate bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, and baking soda. Add to the egg mixture, beating on low speed and scraping the bowl as necessary. Add the vanilla. Fold in the coconut, raisins, and carrots by hand. Pour into the cake pans. Bake about 30 minutes, until firm to the touch or a cake tester comes out clean.

Remove cakes from the oven and cool in the pans for 10 minutes. Turn out on wire racks to cool completely before icing with Cream Cheese Frosting.

CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

• 12 tablespoons butter
• 16 ounces cream cheese
• 2-1/4 cups powdered sugar
• 1-1/4 teaspoons vanilla

Cut the butter into small chunks and place in a mixing bowl. Use the paddle attachment and cream the butter until smooth. Add the cream cheese and mix until well blended, scraping the bowl as needed. Gradually add the powdered sugar, mixing until smooth. Add the vanilla. Refrigerate the icing for 15 to 20 minutes, until it stiffens to spreading consistency.

To finish the cake, place one layer on a serving plate. Cover with frosting. Place the other layer on top and cover the top and sides. Store the cake, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.

SACHER TORTE
Executive pastry chef Michel Finel of The Homestead in Hot Springs, Virginia, shares a recipe for his favorite cake.

• 12 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup plus 4 tablespoons sugar, divided
• 7 egg yolks
• 6 ounces sweet chocolate, melted
• 6 egg whites
• red food coloring
• 1/4 teaspoon vanilla
• 1/3 cup cake flour
• 1/4 cup bread flour
• 1/2 cup cornstarch
• 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• Sacher Torte Filling (recipe follows)
• Chocolate Buttercream Frosting (recipe follows)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut circles of parchment paper to fit the bottoms of two round 10-inch cake pans. Grease the pans with shortening. Place the parchment paper in the pans and grease the paper (see note).

Use an electric mixer with a paddle attachment to cream the butter and 1/2 cup of sugar thoroughly, beating about 5 minutes. Add the egg yolks one at a time and mix until fluffy, scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl. With the mixer running, spoon in the warm melted sweet chocolate. Mix until very well blended, about 3 minutes.

In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites until frothy. Gradually add 4 tablespoons of sugar and whip until soft peaks form. Add a few drops of red food coloring. Gently fold the egg whites into the batter, adding about 1/4 of the whites at a time. Add the vanilla.

Whisk together the cake flour, bread flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt. Sift to remove any lumps. Use a spatula to gently fold the dry ingredients into the batter.

Spoon the batter into the prepared pans. Bake 15 to 18 minutes, until a wooden pick inserted near the center comes out clean and the cakes have begun to pull away from the sides of the pans. Cool in the pans 5 minutes. Invert onto cooling racks and discard the parchment paper. Cool the layers to room temperature and then refrigerate until cold.

To assemble the Sacher Torte, slice each layer horizontally to make four layers. Place one layer on a cake plate and spread with 1/3 of the warm filling. Repeat with two more layers. Place the fourth layer on top. Ice the top and sides of the cake with Chocolate Buttercream Frosting.

Note: Traditionally this cake is made in one layer and then sliced into 4 layers. For easier preparation at home, the chef recommends baking the cake in two pans.

SACHER TORTE FILLING

• 2 tablespoons Myers’s dark rum
• 3/4 cup apricot preserves

Place the rum and preserves in a small heavy saucepan and heat until thickened, about 5 minutes. Spread the warm filling on the cake layers.

CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM FROSTING

• 4 large egg whites
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 cup butter, room temperature
• 3 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted and cooled to room temperature

Place the egg whites and sugar in a mixing bowl and set over a saucepan of simmering water. Whisk constantly until the mixture is hot to the touch and the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat. Use the whisk attachment and beat until the whites are cool, the bowl is cool to the touch, and the whites have thickened. Cut the butter into tablespoon-sized pieces. Beat in the butter, adding 1 piece at a time. Beat until smooth and thick. Fold in the chocolate by hand and beat a few seconds longer until smooth.

BOOKS FOR BAKERS
There are many wonderful books to assist both beginning and dedicated cake bakers with advice ranging from pan selections to techniques. The following books are particularly helpful and should be a part of a well-stocked kitchen:

Perfect Cakes. Recipes and techniques from Nick Malgieri, director of the baking program at New York’s Institute of Culinary Education. (HarperCollins Publishers, 2002)

The Cake Bible. Detailed information on ingredients and equipment, plus recipes from Rose Levy Beranbaum. (William Morrow & Co., 1988)

Chocolate Cake. Chocolate gratification for beginners and experts with explicit instructions for successful cakes from pastry chef Michele Urvater. (Broadway Books, 2001)

How to Make an American Layer Cake. A book of basics for preparing an American classic, plus fillings, frostings, and decorating tips from the editors of Cook’s Illustrated magazine. (Boston Common Press, 1997)

DEFINING CAKE
For those wishing to improve their international cake vocabulary, the following definitions may be helpful.

Dacquoise. Thin, flat disks of nut-flavored meringue that are stacked with sweetened whipped cream or buttercream between the layers. The classic version uses either almonds or hazelnuts. The buttercream can be coffee flavored, or mocha, a combination of chocolate and coffee. The dacquoise is served chilled.

Ganache. Chocolate icing prepared from heavy cream and semisweet chocolate. Proportions vary, with the most common being either equal parts of both ingredients, or 1 and 1/2 parts chocolate to 1 part cream. The cream is heated, the chocolate added off the fire, and the mixture gently whisked until smooth. Once the ganache has cooled, it may be used as a filling or, depending on its texture, used to cover a cake.

Gâteau. The French word for cake.

Genoise. Similar to a sponge cake, this rich cake is used as a base in many recipes. The layers usually are round in shape and are brushed with syrup for flavor. Without the syrup, the cake may be on the dry side, but when moistened correctly with the syrup, the resulting cake will be moist but not wet.

Marjolaine. A dacquoise made of ground almonds and hazelnuts and shaped in a rectangle. It is usually layered with chocolate buttercream and may or may not be topped with praline cream.

Quatre-Quarts. The French term for a pound cake consisting of equal parts of butter, eggs, sugar, and flour.

Roulade. A genoise or sponge cake batter spread on a jelly roll pan and baked. The cooled cake is spread with filling and rolled up. To serve, slices are cut across the roll.

Succès. The common French term for a nut meringue, and also the name of a French cake consisting of two layers of almond meringue covered with praline buttercream.

Tiramisù. A light dessert consisting of sponge cake or ladyfingers that have been dipped in a mixture of coffee and brandy or marsala. The soaked base may be layered with mascarpone and/or a custard filling. Variations exist and the tiramisù, which is refrigerated before serving, may be garnished with whipped cream, grated chocolate, sifted cocoa powder, or whatever pleases the chef.

Torte. The German word for cake. A torte usually is very rich and some versions are made with ground nuts rather than flour. Variations range from dense one-layer cakes to multilayered cakes filled with buttercream.