Of all the sensations that stir the human palate, none is more natural than sweetness. From infancy, sweet things simply taste good — long before the palate responds favorably to salty, sour, bitter, and savory flavors — indicating the evolutionary significance of pure yumminess. It would be difficult to argue today that a sweet tooth remains essential to human survival, especially since sugar is routinely decried by modern diet-mongers (now joined on the hot seat by carbs, of course). But there is no denying that the innate attraction to sweet food and drink remains potent throughout life, whether it’s satisfied by fresh ripe fruit, corn-syrupy sodas, or zero-calorie Sweet’n Low.

In terms of wine, however, sweetness often gets the Scarlet Letter treatment, and not just because of weight-watching. Dry wine is considered more serious, refined, proper. And indeed, with savory food, wines work better without the presence of any residual sugar. But after dinner, it’s a different story. At this point in a meal, sweet is expected — and as tastes continue to embrace a widening circle of food and wine options, dessert wines are gaining attention from adventurous diners.

In thinking about dessert wines, it’s important to keep an open mind. Stylistically, options range from light, peppy lip-smackers to heavy, viscous fortified wines such as port. They are made from a wide array of grapes, often with very specific points of origin and peculiar production methods. Some age well, some don’t. Some are complex and ponderous; others are pure fruity fun. Ounce for ounce, the prized dessert wines of the world are notoriously expensive; yet, conveniently, they often are available in half bottles, and a little goes a long way.

Regardless of composition and provenance, what matters most is what dessert wines share: intensity that makes them easy to appreciate in very small servings and that helps their flavors linger exotically between sips. Sweetness is never the focal point of great dessert wine. It’s a starting point, upon which flavors ranging from citrus and stone fruits to honey and caramel are layered. Given their potency, it’s enticing to enjoy a great dessert wine by itself. Adding dessert, needless to say, compounds the pleasure. Below are some favorite after-dinner sippers, along with suggested pairings.

LATE HARVEST = LUSCIOUS
Sauternes is arguably the world’s most renowned late-harvest wine. It hails from a specific section of Bordeaux where fog regularly envelops the ripening Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon vines and induces a fungus — botrytis cinerea — that siphons water from the grapes, intensifying their sweetness. I call Sauternes an ugly duckling wine because the clusters of grapes infected by the so-called "noble rot" are hideous to look at, yet the resulting wine is a beautiful honeyed elixir, redolent of apricot, pear, and melon. Sauternes production is risky and labor-intensive. The unique climatic conditions that induce botrytis do not always occur. Also, rot can strike inconsistently, leading growers to harvest only affected bunches (and sometimes individual grapes) in multiple meticulous sweeps called tranches. Sweet and rich but not cloying, Sauternes often is paired before dinner with foie gras; after dinner, it shines with crème brûlée and fruit tarts. Château d’Yquem is widely recognized as the crème de la crème of Sauternes. Other top estates are Château Suduiraut, Château Climens, and Château Rieussec.

The practice of late-harvesting botrytised grapes is hardly exclusive to Sauternes, but my experience with bottlings from most New World regions is that they lack acidity and come across as unctuous syrup more than tangy nectar (Aussies refer to late-harvest wines as "stickies"). Trockenbeerenauslese wines, however, made in Germany from late-harvested Riesling, are fabulously concentrated and long-lived. In Alsace, France, Vendange Tardive wines are late-harvest wines by name, but they are fermented nearly to dryness, yielding rich, full-bodied wines that can be problematic with dessert. The rare Alsace wines labeled Sélection de Grains Nobles, however, are thick, sweet, honeyed and layered with complexity. Examples made from Gewürztraminer capture that grape’s aggressive spiciness and can be splendid with desserts laced with cinnamon or brown sugar.

HUNGARIAN GOLD
Tokaji aszú (also known as Tokay) is a late-harvest wine with a twist, made exclusively in the Tokaj-Hegyalja district in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains in northeastern Hungary. Tokaji production is based on botrytised grapes (primarily the Furmint variety), which are mashed to a pulp in 25-liter baskets called puttonyos. The baskets are added to 140-liter casks containing dry white wine. The final product is labeled based on the number of puttonyos added (from two to six). Five puttonyos is the level I find most attractive, with some of the same fruit notes found in Sauternes, plus a provocative earthiness. The sweetest, rarest, and dearest Tokaji of all is labeled Essencia, made from free-run juice only (rather than the pulp-wine mixture).

Tokaji is considered Hungary’s finest wine, with references dating back to the 17th century. However, the vineyards and practitioners nearly died out under communist rule in the 20th century. The wine was, practically speaking, rescued in the 1990s by foreign investment, which also implemented modern technology that has rendered Tokaji better than ever. It is excellent with fruit cobblers, nut-based desserts, and carrot cake. Brands to look for include Royal, Disznoko, and Oremus.

MOTHER NATURE’S FROZEN WONDERS
Ice wine starts when ripe but unbotrytised grapes are left on the vine in the hope that the temperature will drop below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. This freezes most of the water in the grapes, leaving sugar, acid, and flavor extracts unfrozen. Harvested and pressed quickly in the dead of night, the frozen grapes yield an intensely sweet wine with bell-ringing acidity that helps the flavor linger on and on. Though some think this rare dessert wine is epitomized in German Eiswein, the conditions enabling the grapes to freeze solid is the most important factor in determining quality, so excellent ice wines are made elsewhere as well, particularly in Canada and the Pacific Northwest. Perhaps more than any other dessert wine, ice wine begs to be appreciated by itself — but not ice cold.

A playful version is made in California, where the ever-creative Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyards doesn’t wait around for Mother Nature; he makes "Vin de Glacier" (French for "wine of the iceberg") from Muscat grapes that are flash-frozen before pressing. It’s not nearly as complex as true ice wine, but it’s a lot easier to find.

SUNSHINE IN A GLASS
Moscato d’Asti really hits the spot when the weather is warm. This Italian specialty takes advantage of the Muscat grape’s natural extreme sweetness. Fermented only partially, with some of the carbon dioxide trapped in the wine to keep it spritzy, Moscato is ethereally light (under 7 percent alcohol) and vividly peachy, with zingy acidity that pokes right through the sugar. Moscato d’Asti — not to be confused with Asti Spumante, which is made in bulk and fully sparkling — is best consumed young and very cold. I always prefer it outdoors, in fact, with fresh fruit or biscotti. Brands to look for: Vietti, Saracco, La Spinetta.

The Muscat grape is handled differently in the Rhône Valley of France, where neutral grain spirits are added to stop fermentation. The resulting "fortified" wine is strong (15 percent alcohol minimum) but still aromatic and delicious. Think of it as a winterized version of the Muscat grape, well suited to enhance apple and pear desserts, cheesecake, or crème caramel. Jaboulet and Chapoutier are reliable labels.

FROM CHOCOLATE TO NUTS
To many people, it’s not dessert if it’s not chocolate. But the tinge of bitterness in chocolate desserts can be tricky with sweet wines. Port is one popular choice, but I tend to prefer vintage port with cheese (Stilton, Roquefort), walnuts, or nothing at all. Banyuls, on the other hand, a Grenache-based fortified red from the South of France, is slightly lighter and more wine-like than port, with a balance of sweetness and bitterness that plays perfectly with dark chocolate, whether it’s in a mousse, ganache, or straight up. Domaine du Mas Blanc is a producer worth seeking out. The Black Muscat "Elysium" made by California winery Quady also can be a rewarding partner for chocolate.

Tawny ports, which are wood-aged and take on a distinct caramel character, are fantastic with desserts featuring walnuts, hazelnuts, or almonds. Fonseca and Taylor’s make excellent examples. Harder to find, but hauntingly unique are the fortified wines of Spain’s Andalucia region made from Pedro Ximénez (aka PX) grapes. Look for Emilio Lustau’s "San Emilio" Sherry or the "Don PX" Gran Reserva bottling from the producer Toro Albala in Montilla-Moriles. These rich, decadent PX beauties deliver flavor notes including toffee, caramel, orange peel, mocha, molasses, and more. Try alone, with anything nutty, or simply drizzled over vanilla ice cream.

PAIRING SWEET WINES WITH FOOD
There is only one golden rule to keep in mind when pairing dessert wine with dessert: Keep the wine as sweet or sweeter than the food. This keeps the chance for clashing to a minimum. A good all-purpose companion for dessert wines is biscotti, as the cookie’s simplicity allows the wine to shine. Light sweet wines such as Moscato d’Asti or demi-sec Champagne are best served very cold to retain their crispness and freshness. An ice bath will cramp the style of heavier types, inhibiting aroma, flavor, and texture. Compare the effect to what happens with intensely flavored ice cream and sorbet, which show their best when they come up toward room temperature … patience is rewarded!