There’s something about passed hors d’oeuvres at a party. Maybe it’s the silver tray of carefully arranged canapés; perhaps it’s the personal service from a gracious waitperson, host, or hostess. Whatever it is, we feel pampered as we make our selection. There is an impression of elegance and it eliminates standing in line at a buffet table.

"Passed hors d’oeuvres are special," says executive chef Billy Della Ventura of Boston College Club in Massachusetts, "and our members and guests like the extra attention." The presentation can vary, depending on the event, from rows of tiny bite-sized morsels to larger items. "I love to serve fritters," he continues. "We make all kinds — clam, corn, okra. For a casual reception, we may heap them on a tray. They’re easy to serve, and if they’re small, it’s just a bite or two and not messy."

"That’s the key to tray presentations," says executive chef Martha Yost of Mississippi’s University Club of Jackson. "We cannot expect a guest to pick up something that’s dripping. So we’ve all had to reconsider our appetizer menus. Part of that process has been to select items that present well, but aren’t so labor-intensive that they become impractical to serve from a pricing standpoint." When the size of a reception limits the logistics of serving passed hors d’oeuvres, the chefs might utilize small serving stations rather than a buffet table. "For medium-sized events," Chef Martha advises, "a combination of stations and trays may be the best way to handle the service."

Executive chef Aaron Cox of the University Center Club in Tallahassee, Florida, agrees. "We have many receptions here," he says. "And although we serve buffet-style for very large gatherings, our members like to have part of their hors d’oeuvres selections passed to the guests." Chef Aaron’s serving situation is a bit different from most clubs. His club can accommodate 1,000 guests for a reception, and he also serves food to almost 100 Florida State University skyboxes. "Our party foods are high-end items. We serve charred tuna, for instance, and our guests expect this level of hors d’oeuvres. We vary the serving method to accommodate the crowd and the appetizers."

Labor-intensive finger foods can be difficult when only one person is preparing and serving a party at home. Executive chef David Gaydeski of the Carolina Club in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, shares this suggestion for success: "There are some shortcuts that will help. There’s no reason to stand in the kitchen and make tart shells. Buy the frozen ones and bake them yourself. There are very good ones available, and once filled, they not only taste good, but make a showy presentation." He offers the same advice for anyone serving crostini or bruschetta. "Specialty bakeries are producing wonderful French and artisan breads," he says. "Unless you are a skilled bread baker with a reputation to uphold, purchase quality bread from a recommended bakery and spend your time on whatever’s being served as an accompaniment."

Chef Martha makes another point. "If you’re at home," she says, "and you have enough serving trays, some items can be arranged ahead of time. This will allow you to return to the kitchen as needed, pick up a pre-set tray, and return to your guests. We do this in the club kitchen, too. It allows smooth, unhurried service that appears effortless to guests."

We all enjoy a party, whether it’s at the club or at home. Add a few extra touches, and the event becomes memorable. The recipes that follow are great appetizers for any occasion, whether they are passed or not.

GOUGÈRES
Simple to make but oh-so-elegant, gougères are a well-kept secret among professional chefs. They are prepared from choux pastry, a sticky dough that’s officially termed pâte à choux. Pronounced pot-a-shoe, it is the paste from which cream puffs and éclairs are prepared. Novice cooks who tend to shy away from pastry items might be frightened away by French words like choux. But they may not know that it translates as "cabbages," and there’s nothing alarming about it.

Choux pastry is different from other pastry dough because it is partially cooked on top of the stove. The dough is spooned into a pastry bag, piped into rounds or ovals, and baked in the oven.

"Once the technique is understood, it’s easy to make," says executive chef Billy Della Ventura of Boston College Club. "And you can vary the size of the puffs depending on what is needed.

"I love gougères," Chef Billy continues, "and once baked, they’re completely finished since they don’t have a filling. The classic method is to use Gruyère cheese, but I use both Parmesan and cheddar with great success." Goat cheese and Camembert also can be used. Almost any cheese will work, as long as it’s shredded or grated and thoroughly incorporated into the dough. "The combination of pastry and cheese is even better," Chef Billy recommends, "when accompanied by a hearty red wine."

Here is Chef Billy’s recipe for Gougères. He says an equal amount of Parmesan cheese can be substituted for the Gruyère.

• 3/4 cup water
•  tablespoons butter
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 cup flour
• 4 large eggs, room temperature
• 2 ounces Gruyère cheese, finely grated

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. Combine the water, butter, and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. When the butter has melted, turn the heat to the lowest setting. Add the flour all at once, stirring with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a ball and leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from the heat. Add the eggs one at a time, beating with a wooden spoon until each egg is thoroughly incorporated. Add the cheese and beat until the mixture is smooth and shiny.

Drop by teaspoonfuls (or use a pastry bag without a tip) onto the parchment paper. Dip a pastry brush into warm water and smooth any rough edges. Do not let the water drip down the sides of the dough. Bake 15 to 20 minutes until golden and doubled in size. Remove from the pan and cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: About 32 two-inch puffs.

MARINATED EYE OF ROUND
Executive chef Martha Yost of the University Club of Jackson in Mississippi likes to serve this thinly sliced roast beef with roasted garlic mayonnaise.

• 1 eye of round beef roast (4 to 5 pounds)
• 1/4 cup coarsely ground black pepper
• 1-1/2 teaspoons ground cardamom
• 1 can (6 ounce) tomato paste
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 1 cup soy sauce
• 3/4 cup vinegar

Trim and discard any excess fat from the beef roast. Mix the pepper and cardamom. Press mixture onto the surface of the roast, covering completely. In a separate bowl, combine the tomato paste, garlic powder, and paprika. Gradually add the soy sauce and then add the vinegar. Pour over the meat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove the roast from the marinade. Wrap in foil with a little of the marinade poured over the meat. Place on a baking sheet and bake 2 hours. Remove from the oven and foil wrap, cool slightly, and re-wrap in a clean piece of foil. Chill roast completely.

To serve, slice wafer thin and serve with crostini or mini-sized dinner rolls. The roast also can be served without bread, accompanied by any condiments desired.

CROSTINI WITH HERBED CREAM CHEESE
Executive chef David Gaydeski shares a favorite recipe of members of the Carolina Club in Chapel Hill, North Carolina.

FOR THE CROSTINI:

• 1 loaf French bread (about 15 inches long)
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1-1/2 teaspoons pepper
• 3/4 teaspoon cumin
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter, clarified (see note)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice the French bread into 1/4-inch rounds and place on a baking sheet. Combine the salt, pepper, and cumin in a small bowl, blending well. Spray (or use a pastry brush and brush lightly) the sliced bread with clarified butter and sprinkle lightly with the salt mixture. Place in the oven and toast until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and place on a wire rack to cool.

Yield: About 40 crostini.

Note: To clarify butter, slowly melt the butter in a shallow saucepan or small skillet. The milk solids will sink to the bottom of the pan. Remove any foam from the surface and discard. Pour or skim the clear butter from the pan and discard the solids.

FOR THE HERBED CREAM CHEESE:

• 8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 2 tablespoons roasted garlic paste
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
• salt and pepper
• snipped chives, as garnish

Place the cream cheese, sour cream, and garlic paste in bowl of electric mixer. Use the paddle attachment and blend. Add chopped chives, salt and pepper to taste, and mix until smooth.

To serve, pipe or spoon the cream cheese onto the crostini. Garnish with snipped chives.

CRAB FRITTERS
Executive chef Billy Della Ventura says that conch fritters are popular with the members at Boston College Club.

• 1/2 cup cake flour
• 1/3 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 tablespoon cornmeal
• 1-3/4 teaspoons sugar
• 1-1/2 teaspoons mashed garlic clove
• 2 tablespoons finely minced red bell pepper
• 2 tablespoons minced scallions
• 1 pound lump crabmeat, rinsed and picked over
• 1/4 cup water
• 1/3 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
• vegetable oil for frying

Combine the cake flour, baking powder, cornmeal, and sugar. Stir in the mashed garlic, bell pepper, and scallions. Gently fold in the crabmeat. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup water and the Tabasco, tossing to blend. Shape one tablespoon of the mixture into a walnut-sized ball and flatten slightly.

Pour vegetable oil to a depth of 2 inches into a 4-quart saucepan or deep fryer. Heat until a thermometer registers 350 degrees. Fry the fritter until golden brown, about 1 minute.

(This fritter will be a test. If the crab mixture is too dry, the fritter will not hold its shape when cooked. If the fritter comes apart when fried, add a tablespoon or two of water to the remaining mixture.) Adjust the texture of the crab mixture if necessary.

Shape the remaining fritters and fry in batches, without crowding. Drain on paper toweling.

Yield: About 30 fritters.

JERK CHICKEN SALAD ON PLANTAIN CHIPS
Aaron Cox, executive chef at the University Center Club in Tallahassee, Florida, also serves his chicken salad on toast points or toasted pita wedges.

FOR THE CHICKEN SALAD:

• 3/4 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 2 tablespoons Caribbean jerk seasoning
• 1 tablespoon ground ginger
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 pound chicken thighs (about 5), skin removed
• 3 tablespoons currants
• 1 tablespoon cream cheese, room temperature
• 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon curry powder
• 2 teaspoons honey
• salt and pepper
• sprigs of cilantro, for garnish

Mix the balsamic vinegar and vegetable oil in a shallow dish. In a separate bowl, combine the Caribbean jerk seasoning and ginger. Whisk in the soy sauce and add to the vinegar mixture. Rinse the chicken thighs and pat dry. Place the meat in a heavy plastic bag and pour the marinade on top. Marinate for one hour.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray a baking sheet with nonstick spray. Remove the chicken from the marinade and place on the pan, discarding the marinade. Roast until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees on a thermometer, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool slightly. Chill the chicken until cold.

Remove the meat from the bones. Chop the chicken into 1/4-inch pieces and place in a mixing bowl. Add the currants. In a separate bowl, combine the cream cheese, mayonnaise, curry powder, and honey. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix until fairly smooth. Spoon cream cheese mixture over the chicken and toss until well coated. Cover and chill until ready to serve, removing from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before assembling the canapés.

FOR THE PLANTAIN CHIPS:

• 2 plantain bananas
• vegetable oil for frying
• 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

Peel the bananas and slice on a 45-degree angle 1⁄4-inch thick. The diameter of each slice should be about 11⁄2 inches. Pour vegetable oil to a depth of 2 inches in a medium saucepan. Heat until a thermometer registers 350 degrees. Fry the chips in batches, without crowding, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Place on paper toweling to absorb excess grease. Sprinkle with salt before assembling.

To serve, arrange the chips on a serving tray. Top with a teaspoonful of the chicken salad and garnish with a sprig of cilantro.

Yield: About 16 canapés.

PLAN AHEAD
We all appreciate party food that can be prepared ahead of time or assembled at the last minute for surprise guests. Executive chef David Gaydeski of the Carolina Club in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, has a few tips for staying ahead. "Rely on your freezer," he suggests. "French bread can be cut into rounds even if it’s partially frozen. And the seasoning mix for the crostini will keep for months. Make a double amount and save it in a plastic bag. If you’re in a pinch, serve the crostini without the cream cheese." Along the same lines, the ingredients for the cheese spread can be kept on hand. Cream cheese and sour cream keep well and so does prepared roasted garlic paste that comes in a tube. "Whatever herbs are on hand could be substituted for the chives," Chef David says. "Cilantro or basil would work." And what if the cream cheese basics are on hand, but there’s no French bread? "OK," the chef responds, laughing, "use a quality cracker. But I already said to keep the bread in the freezer."

MIX AND MATCH
For the record, we like switching the chefs’ recipes around. Chef David’s crostini is excellent served with Chef Martha’s marinated eye of round and a few bread and butter pickle slices. We also enjoy Chef David’s cream cheese with Chef Aaron’s plantain chips.