For chocolate fans, Valentine’s Day may be the consummate holiday. We love chocolate, can easily rationalize why we should have all we want, and we expect to receive it as gifts. The 14th of February is an opportunity to thoughtfully indulge our sweetheart — at the same time we satisfy our own craving.

Most of us will admit to a longing for chocolate. One Hershey’s Kiss or a single dip of ice cream will suffice on some days, but occasionally a decadent, calorie-laden, chocolate creation is required.

"Our members like dessert," says executive chef Danny Lane of Town Point Club in Norfolk, Virginia, "and chocolate is always in demand. We try to offer at least one chocolate item all the time to keep everybody happy."

Brian Lord, executive chef at the Summit Club in Birmingham, Alabama, agrees with Chef Danny. "We have a nice rotation of chocolate desserts," he says, "and it varies from pot au crème to pie. We like to serve chocolate cheesecake, not all the time, but pretty often. It’s a members’ favorite, and we usually sell out of it by the end of the evening. It’s difficult for most people to resist."

Great chocolate desserts depend on quality chocolate. "Choosing chocolate can get complicated," says executive chef Bruce Ross of Columbia Tower Club in Seattle. "Connoisseurs tend to get tangled up in the percentage of cacao, and where the beans were grown, and whether the manufacturer used just one type of bean. That might be critical to some people, but when it gets right down to it, how many palates can tell the difference between 70 percent dark chocolate and 61 percent?"

Executive chef Ernest Bledsoe of the Harbour Club in Charleston, South Carolina, believes it’s easier to go by taste, without reading labels. He prefers the taste of Callebaut. "I think it’s important to use chocolate that tastes good on its own, before it’s used in a recipe," he says. "Callebaut is a very high-quality product with a superior flavor." Chef Danny likes to use Valrhona for the same reason.

There are many fine brands available and most have an assortment of products. Chef Ernest keeps dark, milk, and bittersweet chocolate on hand and says he stays with Callebaut all the way. Other chefs may prefer a semisweet chocolate from one company and choose another brand for dark chocolate. Pastry chef Penny Stewart of the Summit Club comments, "My favorite is a French chocolate sold under the name of Cacao Barry [a division of Callebaut], but I also use Ghirardelli’s dark chocolate in some recipes."

Dark chocolate, regardless of the brand, has more cocoa content than milk or semisweet chocolate, and it’s being touted as having some nutritional qualities. Nutritionists believe that plant compounds called flavonoids have health benefits. Although green, leafy vegetables remain the flavonoid front-runner, the presence of flavonoids in cacao beans has prompted the hype about eating dark chocolate. Experts, however, have yet to agree on whether the benefits are really there. Calories add up in a hurry, and the flavonoid effect is diminished as chocolate is processed. "Maybe some day," Chef Bruce says with a laugh, "they’ll figure out a way to remove the calories and then we’ll need a new holiday. Maybe Chocolate Day?"

Valentine’s Day or Chocolate Day, here’s a chance to satisfy a sweet tooth and surprise a sweetheart with the chefs’ chocolate creations.

CHOCOLATE ESPRESSO CRÈME BRÛLÉE
Executive chef Danny Lane of Town Point Club in Norfolk, Virginia, combines chocolate and espresso for a rich brûlée.

• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1 vanilla bean (see note)
• 6 egg yolks, lightly beaten
• 12 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
• 1/2 cup espresso

Bring the cream, sugar, and vanilla bean seeds to a boil in a saucepan. Place the egg yolks in a bowl and add 2 tablespoons of the cream mixture, whisking constantly. Add about 1/4 of the cream to the eggs, then pour the egg mixture back into the pan with the cream mixture. Return to a boil, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, 15 to 20 seconds.

Strain the cream over the chopped chocolate, and whisk until smooth. Slowly whisk in the espresso.

Place eight 4-ounce ramekins or custard cups on a flat baking sheet. Divide the cream among the cups. Refrigerate until set and thoroughly chilled.

Yield: 8 servings.

Note: Split open the vanilla bean with a knife. Scrape out the seeds and discard the bean, using only the seeds.

CHOCOLATE CHEESECAKE
Executive chef Brian Lord of the Summit Club in Birmingham, Alabama, says pastry chef Penny Stewart’s cheesecake is one of the club’s most popular desserts.

• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 8 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
• 1-1/4 cups graham cracker crumbs
• 1/4 cup brown sugar
• 5 tablespoons butter, melted
• 24 ounces cream cheese, softened
• 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
• 5 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon vanilla

Bring the heavy cream to a boil in a saucepan. Remove from the fire and add the chocolate, stirring until the chocolate melts. Set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Combine the graham cracker crumbs and brown sugar in a small bowl. Add the melted butter, stirring with a fork until well blended. Press the mixture onto the bottom and 1/2-inch up the sides of a 10-inch springform pan. Set the pan on a piece of aluminum foil and bring the foil up to cover the sides of the pan. Trim and discard any overhang. Using an electric mixer, cream the cheese and sugar until well blended and smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing on low speed and scraping the bowl after each addition. Add the lemon juice and vanilla, mixing well. Add the chocolate mixture, and mix thoroughly.

Pour the cheesecake filling into the prepared pan. Set the pan in a baking dish and add enough warm water to come halfway up the sides of the springform pan. Bake about 60 minutes, until slightly firm when touched in the center. Remove the pan from the water bath and place on a rack to cool to room temperature. Discard the foil wrapping. Cover the cheesecake and chill in the refrigerator 4 hours or overnight.

To serve, run the edge of a thin spatula around the inside of the pan to loosen the cheesecake. Release the clamp on the pan and remove the outside rim. Slice the cheesecake with a sharp knife, cleaning the knife with hot water after each cut. Garnish with berries, chocolate shavings, or sweetened whipped cream, if desired.

Yield: About 12 servings.

CHOCOLATE DESSERT BAGS WITH CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
These delicate chocolate bags also may be filled with ice cream or sweetened whipped cream, says executive chef Danny Lane of the Town Point Club in Norfolk, Virginia.

FOR THE CHOCOLATE BAGS

• 16 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped

Place the chocolate in a stainless steel bowl. Set over a pan of simmering water and heat until the chocolate melts. Set aside until just warm. Using eight small coffee bags, cut down the sides until the bags stand about 3 inches high. Use a paintbrush to paint the inside of the bags with melted chocolate. Refrigerate until chocolate has hardened, about 30 minutes. Repeat to give two coats. Refrigerate or freeze until hardened, at least 2 hours.

Carefully peel the paper from each bag. Fill each chocolate bag with Chocolate Mousse. Garnish with a raspberry or strawberry if desired, or top with a tablespoon of sweetened whipped cream.

Yield: About 8 servings.

FOR THE MOUSSE

• 8 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
• 1-1/2 cups heavy cream, divided
• 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier (orange liqueur)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1/2 cup egg whites, room temperature (about 4 large whites)
• 1/4 cup powdered sugar

Place the chocolate in a medium stainless steel bowl. Set over simmering water and heat until the chocolate melts, stirring gently. Bring 1/2 cup of the cream to a boil. Pour over the chocolate, stirring until smooth. Stir in the Grand Marnier and vanilla, mixing well. Pour into a clean bowl and set aside to cool to lukewarm.

Place the remaining cream in a chilled mixing bowl. Whip to soft peaks. Fold about one-fourth of the cream into the chocolate mixture, blending thoroughly. Add the remaining cream in 3 additions, blending well.

Whip the egg whites until frothy. Add the powdered sugar and beat until the whites form stiff, but not dry, peaks. Fold into the chocolate in 3 additions. Cover and chill 3 hours.

Note: The mousse also may be served without preparing the chocolate bags. Serve in stemmed dessert glasses or custard cups.

GODIVA SOUFFLÉS
An elegant dessert from pastry chef Christian Arciniega of Columbia Tower Club in Seattle.

• 3 eggs, separated
• 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon Dutch-process cocoa powder (see note)
• 1 ounce Godiva chocolate liqueur
• 3 heaping teaspoons powdered sugar
• 2 ounces chocolate sauce

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease two 4-ounce ramekins with butter. Coat the inside with granulated sugar and set aside.

Use a wire whisk to beat the egg yolks until very well blended. Combine 2 teaspoons granulated sugar and the cocoa powder in a small bowl. Blend into the egg yolks, mixing well. Add the liqueur. In another bowl, using an electric mixer on high speed, beat the egg whites with the powdered sugar until they form stiff, but not dry, peaks. Use a spatula to fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Pour even amounts into the ramekins. Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake 15 minutes. Remove from the oven. Dust the tops with powdered sugar. Using a spoon, tear a hole in the top of each soufflé and pour 1 ounce of chocolate sauce over each soufflé. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

Note: Chef Christian prefers the richer flavor of dark Dutch-process cocoa rather than plain cocoa powder.

MOLTEN CHOCOLATE CAKES WITH RASPBERRY COULIS
Ernest Bledsoe, executive chef of the Harbour Club in Charleston, South Carolina, serves these decadent chocolate cakes with a spoonful of sweetened whipped cream.

• 3 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
• 1/3 cup whipping cream
• 14 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
• 1-1/4 cups butter
• 1 tablespoon flour
• 10 egg yolks
• 7 tablespoons sugar
• Raspberry Coulis (recipe follows)
• vanilla bean ice cream
• fresh raspberries for garnish (optional)

Place the chopped semisweet chocolate in a bowl. Bring the whipping cream just to a boil and pour over the chocolate. Stir slowly until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth. Pour into a shallow glass dish and cool 10 minutes. Place in the freezer for 1 hour. Scoop out 10 balls, using a 1/2 teaspoon measuring spoon. Place chocolate balls on cookie sheet and return to the freezer until needed.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Spray 10 4-ounce (1/2 cup) ramekins or custard cups with nonstick spray. Set aside.

Melt the bittersweet chocolate and the butter in the top of a double boiler set over simmering water. Do not let the water touch the bottom of the top pan. When melted, stir in the flour and remove from the heat to cool slightly.

Use an electric mixer to whip the egg yolks until well blended. Slowly add the sugar and beat until the mixture leaves a thick ribbon that stays on top of the batter when the whip is lifted up, about 5 minutes. Pour the bittersweet chocolate mixture into the egg yolk mixture and gently fold the two together.

Fill each ramekin a little less than halfway with batter and place one chocolate ball in the center of the batter. Fill the ramekins just below the top with the remaining batter. Place ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the cakes begin to pull away from the sides of the ramekins, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven. Cool about 15 minutes.

To serve, run a thin knife around each cake to loosen from the ramekin and place on a dessert plate. Spoon the Raspberry Coulis around the cake and top with a spoonful of vanilla bean ice cream. Garnish with two or three fresh raspberries, if desired.

Yield: 10 cakes.

FOR THE RASPBERRY COULIS

• 2 6-ounce packages fresh raspberries (about 2-1/2 cups)
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 cup sugar

Use a food processor to puree the raspberries and water. Pass through a sieve and set the sieved fruit aside. Heat the raspberry liquid and the sugar over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Add the sieved raspberries to the pan and simmer until the mixture thickens slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool to room temperature and use to garnish the chocolate cakes.

CHOCOLATE FOR YOUR FEET
Along with the yet-to-be-verified health benefits of eating chocolate, there’s a wave of publicity regarding its skin-softening abilities. That’s easy to believe since chocolate contains cocoa butter, which is a fat. Blending cocoa butter with an array of health, beauty, and skin ingredients has created products that smell good, feel good, and seem to leave one’s skin soft and glowing.

The Homestead in Hot Springs, Virginia, has developed an intriguing chocolate treat. Officially called Fancy Feet, this soothing spa treatment includes a soak in a chocolate milk bath, a gentle pedicure, and a moisturizing rub with chocolate soufflé lotion. Although the service originally was intended for children, spa director Christie Ford will happily indulge a grown-up by request.

ASSORTED CHOCOLATES
Browsing the Internet is like perusing a box of Valentine candy. You never know what you’ll get until you try it.

CHOCOLATE THINGS TO DO
• Attend Chocolate Fest, held annually on Memorial Day weekend in Burlington, Wisconsin. There’s entertainment for the entire family, including a chocolate eating contest, live music, chocolate carvings, and a Win-Your-Weight-in-Chocolate contest. The winner can opt for $500 cash instead, but who would be that dumb? For more information, check out www.chocolatefest.com.

• Join the Chocolate-of-the-Month Club. Gourmet selections from chocolatiers around the world are sent to members each month. Items include truffles, cookies, sacher tortes, and the club also has chocolate gifts for every occasion. Membership categories available at www.chocolatemonthclub.com.

• Visit Jacques Chocolate Museum in Eupen, Belgium. See its collection of antique chocolate molds, watch artisan chocolate makers at work, and visit the chocolate shop. For complete details on this and other chocolate exhibits in Europe, search www.barry-callebaut.com, click on "Chocophilia," then "Museums & Events."

• Order almost anything chocolate, edible or not, weird or wonderful, at www.chocolate.com, dubbed the "official" chocolate site of the Internet.

CHOCOLATE ANIMALS
• There’s nothing cuter than a chocolate Labrador puppy, unless it’s a chocolate kitten. And we mean live animals, not chocolate coated. Persians and several other cat breeds are promoting chocolate-colored felines. You can find a cat or kitten at www.chocolatecats.com. Thinking of a larger pet? Myers Horse Farms in Ashland, Ohio, has a famous stallion named Zip’s Chocolate Chip. His offspring all have chocolate-based names. See these horses at www.zipschocolatechip.com.

• From another view, www.makeminechocolate.org was formed to promote edible chocolate bunnies as Easter treats. The group hopes to discourage the practice of giving small children live rabbits. Many families are unable to care for the rabbits and they are often abandoned at animal shelters or set loose to fend for themselves.

CHOCOLATE PRODUCTS
• Authentic Mexican recipes often specify "disks" of chocolate. Visit www.gourmetsleuth.com to find Mexican chocolate and other related products.

• Hot chocolate snobs might insist on true Mexican hot chocolate mix. Ibarra is one of the oldest and best-known brands and is available online at www.pacificrim-gourmet.com.

• Who could resist a half-pound of praline almonds rolled in a mixture of 61 percent chocolate and a cocoa powder that contains chili spice? Find Cocoa Nuts Aztec, a product of Chocolates El Rey, on its Web site at www.elreychocolate.com.

CHOCOLATE CUPS AND BAGS
Executive chef Danny Lane of Town Point Club in Norfolk, Virginia, has a few recommendations for making chocolate cups or bags. "First of all," he comments, "this is for fun. Practice makes perfect, and you can always eat the mistakes." Here are Chef Danny’s tips:

Any small paper bag or cup will work, including a paper muffin cup. Use a small, thin paintbrush, not a pastry brush. Paint on the first chocolate layer and refrigerate or freeze the bags until the chocolate is hard. If muffin papers are used, set them in a muffin pan to hold their shape. Leave the leftover chocolate at room temperature. Use a generous amount of chocolate for the second layer. If the chocolate bag is too thin, the chocolate might shatter as the paper is removed.

Peel the paper off carefully. Try to avoid touching the chocolate with bare fingers as the chocolate can get sticky, especially if the kitchen work area is warm. Immediately place the bags or cups back in the refrigerator or freezer.

"Finally," Chef Danny advises, "make a couple more than you need. Figure that at least one will shatter, no matter what you do. Just eat it and keep working."