COMFORT FOOD

By Sidney Carlisle
Photography by RJ Hinkle of Quad/Photo
Food styling by Martha Gooding. Prop styling by Kay Bay.

Defining comfort food seems simple enough. But ask a couple of friends to reveal what food is comforting to them and the response might be surprising. “The answer will depend partly on one’s background,” says executive chef Terry Freehling of Diamond Run Golf Club in Sewickley, Pennsylvania. “A shoofly pie may come to mind if one is from this area, but black-eyed peas and corn bread are more likely if one hails from a Southern state.” Ethnic origins also play a role — mama’s Italian spaghetti can signify comfort to someone who grew up with the smell of sauce cooking on a back burner.

Comfort food can be a favorite childhood treat or an item that was cooked at home by a beloved relative. “Who knows how many grandmothers fried chicken for lunch on Sunday,” executive chef Fred Leach of the Cardinal Club in Raleigh, North Carolina, says with a laugh. “Part of that comfort feeling comes from a combination of memories — a smell that you can conjure up by just closing your eyes, the special flavor of a favorite food, even the big blue bowl that was always used for banana pudding. It all adds up to a sense of calm and well-being.”

Executive chef Robert Harris of Quail Hollow Country Club in Concord, Ohio, has a similar explanation. “Perhaps chocolate pie is your comfort food,” he comments. “In a crisis, any chocolate pie will do, but there is probably a particular pie you are really, really wishing for — and it may be because you associate it with the feelings you have for your mom or whoever made the pie at home.”

A chocolate pie might be consoling to some of us, but only if we are women. Gender seems to play a role in both the selection of comfort food and why we want it in the first place. A study conducted by the Cornell School of Hotel Administration found that women eat to improve their attitude, while men tend to eat when their mood is good. Women choose carbohydrates, with sugar on the most-wanted list. Chocolate also ranks near the top, especially when combined with sugar. Men want protein, and not from vegetables, eggs, or fish. Their emphasis is on meat, mainly beef, although lamb, pork, and chicken are also popular. Executive chef Mark Golden of Silver Lake Country Club in Silver Lake, Ohio, explains, “Beef means comfort food to my family. Meat loaf is a big favorite, but only if it’s made with beef. They won’t touch ground turkey.”

Emotional incidents do seem to trigger food cravings. It’s easy for women to understand how a bad hair day could warrant a piece of chocolate candy. A more serious problem might require several pieces or almost all in the box, a reasonable reaction under some circumstances. On the other hand, if the team wins, the guys all want to go for steaks. “This theory actually makes perfect sense,” says executive chef Phil Bouza of Barton Creek Resort & Spa in Austin, Texas. “Any sports event will excite a crowd. The losers hate coming up last, and the winners want to celebrate. And it can be a similar response for men who’ve concluded a big deal at work, or received a promotion — they want to go out and eat dinner.”

Whatever the reason, no matter where we call “home,” and regardless of how successful we might be, sometimes we all crave food that makes us feel good. If it’s comforting, it’s probably fattening … and wonderful. Just go for it.

Standing up for the women of the world, food writer Sidney Carlisle believes chocolate cake can cure all woes.

CREAMED SPINACH
For special occasions, says executive chef Robert Harris of Quail Hollow Country Club in Concord, Ohio, use individual ramekins rather than a large baking dish.
  • 1 small onion, finely diced, about 2/3 cup
  • 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 cup white wine
  • 2-1/2 cups heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup chicken stock
  • 1 tablespoon cornstarch
  • 1 tablespoon water
  • 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided
  • 2 pounds frozen spinach, thawed, and well drained (squeeze dry)
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

Spray a medium-size baking dish with nonstick spray and set it aside. Sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil over medium heat until tender, but not brown. Add the wine and cook until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cream and chicken stock and lower the heat to a simmer. Combine the cornstarch and water in a small bowl. Whisk into the cream mixture. Whisk in 2/3 cup of the cheese and then add the spinach, salt, and nutmeg. Simmer on low for 10 minutes.

Heat the broiler until hot. Pour the spinach into the baking dish and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Place under the broiler until lightly browned. Serve hot.

Yield: About 8 servings.

DIAMOND RUN’S CHICKEN POT PIE
A nice Chardonnay, says executive chef Terry Freehling of Diamond Run Golf Club in Sewickley, Pennsylvania, is perfect with these pot pies.

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 cup diced Spanish onion (1/2-inch dice)
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced celery
  • 1/2 cup diced carrots (1/2-inch dice)
  • 2 cups chicken stock
  • 1/2 cup whole kernel corn
  • 1/2 cup English peas
  • 1 cup cooked diced chicken breast (1/2-inch dice)
  • 4 ounces (1 stick) butter
  • 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups half-and-half, divided
  • salt and pepper
  • 6 puff pastry tops (see note)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Spray six 4-inch pot pie pans (or six individual-sized gratin dishes) with nonstick spray. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot. Add the onion, celery, and carrots, and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the corn, peas, and chicken, and reduce the heat to the lowest setting.

In another stockpot, melt the butter on medium-high heat. Whisk in the flour, stirring constantly, and cook about 3 minutes. Gradually add 1 cup of the half-and-half, whisking until smooth. Whisk in the remaining half-and-half and cook about 2 minutes more. Using a big ladle, gradually add the hot chicken stock mixture to the milk mixture. Whisk constantly until most of the stock has been added. (The mixture should be a thick cream sauce.) Stir the vegetables and any remaining stock into the sauce. Using a spoon, stir gently and cook until the vegetables are heated through, about 2 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Spoon the filling into the pans. Place in the oven about 4 minutes until the filling begins to brown. Place a puff pastry topping over each pie and continue to cook until the pastry is hot, about 5 minutes.

Yield: 6 servings.

Note: For the pastry tops, thaw one 17-ounce package of puff pastry as directed on the package. Unfold one sheet on a floured surface. Turn three pie pans or gratin dishes upside down on the pastry and cut around the pans to size the topping to fit. Unfold the remaining pastry sheet and cut out three additional tops. Place the tops on ungreased baking sheets and bake as directed on the package. Cool on wire racks.

BREAD PUDDING WITH WHISKEY CARAMEL SAUCE
This fabulous bread pudding is served at Willow Creek Golf Club in Spring, Texas.

  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2-1/4 teaspoons cinnamon
  • 6 eggs
  • 1 cup milk
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla
  • 2 tablespoons butter, melted
  • 12 ounces fresh French bread, cut into medium cubes (1/2- to l-inch cubes)
  • 1/2 cup raisins
  • 3/4 cup coarsely chopped pecans
  • Whiskey Caramel Sauce (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees, or 300 degrees if it is a convection oven. Spray a 10-inch baking dish with nonstick spray.

Whisk the sugar and cinnamon together in a mixing bowl. Add the eggs, milk, cream, and vanilla and beat on medium speed of the mixer until smooth. Add the butter. In a separate bowl, combine the bread cubes, raisins, and pecans, tossing to mix. Pour the egg mixture over the bread mix and stir until well mixed. Allow the bread to soak for 10 minutes.

Spoon the pudding into the baking dish. Place the pan on the middle rack of the oven and bake about 40 minutes until firm and lightly browned. Remove dish from the oven and cool before serving.

To serve, cut the pudding into squares and place on serving plates. Pour the warm Whiskey Caramel Sauce directly over the bread pudding.

Yield: About 8 servings.

WHISKEY CARAMEL SAUCE

  • 1 cup purchased caramel sauce
  • 1 ounce whiskey

Pour the caramel sauce into a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Gradually add the whiskey to the pan, whisking to blend. Heat over medium heat until the sauce comes to a boil. Remove from the heat. Serve warm.

CK’S POTATO PANCAKES
Executive chef Robert Harris of Quail Hollow Country Club in Concord, Ohio, serves these potato cakes in the CK’s Steakhouse dining room.

  • 1 cup flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1-1/2 cups milk
  • 1 egg
  • 1-1/2 pounds shredded hash brown potatoes
  • 1 small onion, minced (about 2/3 cup)
  • 1 rib celery, minced
  • 1/4 cup olive oil, plus additional needed for frying
  • sour cream (optional)
  • chopped chives (optional)

Combine the flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl. Whisk the milk and egg together in a separate bowl. Combine the milk and flour mixtures, whisking until it resembles thin pancake batter. Add the potatoes, onion, and celery, mixing well.

Heat 1⁄4 cup of the olive oil in a nonstick frying pan or a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Drop heaping tablespoons of the potato mixture into the hot oil, flattening slightly with the back of a spoon. Flip over when nicely browned and brown the other side. Drain on paper toweling. Repeat with the remaining potatoes, adding more oil as needed.

Serve hot, garnished with sour cream and chives, if desired.

Yield: About 32 pancakes.

BEER AND THREE CHEESE SOUP
Executive chef Fred Leach of the Cardinal Club in Raleigh, North Carolina, says toasted sourdough bread goes well with this soup.

  • 3/4 cup butter
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced celery
  • 1/2 cup diced carrots (1/4-inch dice)
  • 1/2 cup diced onion (1/4-inch dice)
  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
  • 5 cups chicken stock
  • 8 ounces shredded cheddar cheese
  • 4 ounces shredded Swiss cheese
  • 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 bottle of beer (12 ounces)
  • salt and pepper

Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the celery, carrots, and onion and cook until tender, but not brown. Combine the flour and dry mustard and blend into the vegetables. Slowly whisk in the chicken stock and bring the soup to a boil. Stirring constantly, cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the cheddar cheese, Swiss cheese, Parmesan cheese, and beer. Simmer over low heat for 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Yield: About 6 servings.

DON’T GO THERE
Our least favorite Web site, which shall remain nameless, offered several ways to change the way we think about comfort food. According to the material presented, with a little discipline, one could learn to find solace in healthy foods, eventually improving overall eating habits. Oh, please, who would swap cake for carrot sticks?

HOW ABOUT YOU?
How do you define comfort food? Send your favorite memory or recipe to us at privateclubs@clubcorp.com.

CHEFS Q&A
We quizzed the chefs, asking for answers to the question, “What food means comfort to you and your family?” The previously mentioned nutritional research appears to be fairly reliable, because we queried nine men and no one replied with chocolate, cake, pie, or pudding — not one sweet, sugar-laden answer. Go figure.

Executive chef Phil Bouza of Barton Creek Resort & Spa in Austin, Texas: “Soup says comfort. If I were choosing, I’d make split pea soup with lots of salty ham.”

Executive chef Mark Golden of Silver Lake Country Club in Silver Lake, Ohio: “My family always requests stuffed bell peppers. I use a mixture of ground beef and rice, and spice it up.”

Executive chef Daniel Lane of the Town Point Club in Norfolk, Virginia: “I would want a hearty beef stew with some fresh bread to sop up the sauce. And a nice Cabernet to go with it. My second choice would be meat loaf.”

Executive chef Robert Harris of Quail Hollow Country Club in Concord, Ohio: “Definitely braised lamb shanks. Any braised meat lamb is my favorite. I think cooking meat slowly gives it better flavor. Reminds me of my mom’s cooking.”

Executive chef Bruce Ross of the Tower Club in Dallas: “My idea of a comforting meal is beef short ribs braised for about 12 hours. I would also serve roasted winter vegetables, great bread, and a really big red wine from Washington state.”

Executive chef Fred Leach of the Cardinal Club in Raleigh, North Carolina: “I don’t even have to think about this. Homemade chicken noodle soup is the ultimate comfort food.”

Executive chef Terry Freehling of Diamond Run Golf Club in Sewickley, Pennsylvania: “My family would vote unanimously for chicken and dumplings. Period.”

Executive chef David Gaydeski of the Carolina Club in Chapel Hill, North Carolina: “I would cook something hearty like a deep-dish lasagna full of sauce and ricotta. And I would serve it with focaccia bread and wine.”

Executive chef Seth Perricone of Willow Creek Golf Club in Spring, Texas: “For myself, I would have to have toad-in-the-hole (a British recipe made of Yorkshire pudding baked with small link sausages), but my wife would want meat loaf. And maybe some buttery mashed potatoes. Either way seems to involve a lot of calories!”

QUOTES, QUIPS, & WEB SITES
Favorite quote from the Web site www.comfortfoodqueen.com: “What is the meaning of life? It may be found in a bowl of mashed potatoes.”
Favorite line from a country music video: “We ain’t afraid to eat fried chicken and dirty dance to Merle. Ain’t you glad we ain’t all California girls?” Courtesy of Gretchen Wilson, from her video California Girls.
Favorite line from a radio show: “Comfort Food: Meat loaf and mashed potatoes for your mind.” This quote opens Wyoming’s only comedy and music radio show. Created by Christopher Turner and broadcast from the Irma Hotel in Cody, Wyoming, the show features live music and cowboy and cowgirl poets. More information at www.comfortfoodradio.com.
Favorite quote from the above-mentioned Chris Turner: “Chicken-fried steak is the sacred meal.”
Favorite search for comfort food: Search from Seattle to Atlantic City and everywhere in between — http://seattle.citysearch.com/bestof/winners/comfort_food. Just change the name of the city to locate restaurants serving the best comfort food across America.