Legendary Hotel del Coronado satisfies the soul …especially on this guy’s spa day.
By Scott Kramer
A bum knee. That’s what initially steered me to my first and only massage two years ago. Did it ever work wonders. Afterward, I was able to jog again on a daily basis and return to my weekly ice hockey game — pain free. I’m not exactly sure what the masseuse did or which nerves she penetrated, but she worked miracles. That’s since made me wonder how much my entire banged-up, 46-year-old frame would benefit from a full-body massage.
My curiosity was finally satiated this spring, when I descended upon the brand-new Spa at the Del, located at the timelessly beautiful Hotel del Coronado near San Diego. The Spa — which opened in January — is tucked away on the lower level of this 119-year-old luxury resort along the grand Pacific, but the entranceway to the spa is outside by the beach. Meaning you’re already soaking up warm Southern California rays before you ever step in the door of this sanctuary that features 21 treatment rooms.
I admit I was a little jittery about getting a spa treatment. I wasn’t sure how a man would be treated at a place like this that I imagined was geared toward catering extremely well to women. But when I walked into the reception room, I was stunned. There were several tables set up with soaps, oils, lotions, music, books, and other spa-related items for sale — and one full display devoted strictly to men. That actually made me feel welcome and even dropped my pulse rate.
I checked in, glancing over the treatment menu that included various massages, wraps, and facials. One item that caught my eye was water therapy, in which guests essentially get a massage while submerged in a hydrotherapy pool. There also were packages for couples, mothers and daughters, girlfriends, wedding parties — and for fathers and sons.
Attendant Travis greeted me and showed me around the men’s area. The locker room sported two thin-screen plasmas broadcasting ESPN — a good sign — but with the sound muted to make way for the soothing spa music on the speaker system. Having the closed-captioning on allowed for the best of both worlds. The lockers were high-tech, featuring a really clever code system. There was also a Jacuzzi and a wet sauna, flanked by a bowl of fruit and a glass tank filled with fresh cold water — all blanketed by walls with soothing colors. Since I hadn’t thought to bring a bathing suit, I wasn’t about to hit the whirlpool au naturel. I’m guessing it was clothing optional, but that frankly makes me uneasy. Travis asked for my shoe size and returned with a pair of size 12 sandals and a thick luxury bathrobe. “Go at your own pace, but once you’re ready for your massage, just proceed through that door,” said Travis, pointing beyond the Jacuzzi.
Not knowing the apparel protocol for the occasion, I stripped to my boxers, tossed on the robe and headed through the door into the massage waiting area. Instantly a young woman entered — as if she were waiting just for me — and introduced herself as Jenny. “Mr. Kramer,” she said. “I understand you want a deep tissue massage today. Let me lead you to the massage room. Is it OK if I call you Scott?”
“Sure,” I said, as I followed her down the hallway.
“I’ll wait outside,” she said. “Just disrobe and lie facedown between the two sheets on the table, placing your face down in the leather ring. I’ll come back in a minute.” Again, because this was all new to me, I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to remove all clothes or just the robe. I didn’t want to ask, for fear of embarrassment. So I erred with caution and slipped off just the robe, then lay down as asked.
A minute later, Jenny knocked and came back in. She rolled back the top sheet from my back and slightly tucked it into my boxers. I smiled, realizing my proper fashion instinct. She offered me a choice of lotions: lavender, rosemary, or pineapple papaya. Still thinking about the fruit bowl, I opted for the latter. Good choice — it smelled awesome.
Then I felt my right shoulder starting to get some love. Jenny soothingly rubbed in the lotion — which surprisingly was pleasantly warm. I kept thinking I’d make a terrible masseur because my hands are perpetually cold when I meet new people. I’d freak out some poor client upon first touch. But I digress. The gentle circular motion Jenny’s hands provided started getting harder and more intense, until it actually started hurting. Trying to put up the brave front, I absorbed it like a punch. But somewhere in the next minute I must have flinched in pain.
“Uh, how often do you get body work?” Jenny asked.
“You mean a massage?” I replied. “Well, this is just the second time in my life.”
“And you asked for a deep tissue massage?” she asked.
Sensing uncertainty in her voice, I realized I was in over my head.
“Tell you what, let me change course and instead give you a less abrasive treatment,” she said. “I’ll put some nice acupressure on you. It’ll feel a lot better. Now just keep taking nice long, deep breaths. In and out, in and out.”
That sounded more like a program I could get on board with. Jenny then asked if there was any particular area I wanted to get worked on, and I mentioned my bad left knee could always use some attention.
For the next 50 minutes, Jenny proceeded to give a nice rubdown just the way I envisioned it: She worked her hands and lotion like a magician, penetrating any knots she came across before going on to the next limb — and she didn’t talk very much, which I really appreciated as it added to the relaxation of the entire experience. The tranquil music on the speakers also transported me to another world. Jenny did comment along the way that because of all the knots in my shoulders, I must have a very stressful job.
“No, I just make it that way,” I quipped.
She laughed.
When she got down to my legs, she warned me that she would be resting my foot on her shoulder for better leverage. It was pure heaven — she had me sold. Occasionally, she reminded me to just say the word if she was being too harsh. At one point, I told her she was crossing my pain threshold. So she held back pressure, then continued on with a great massage. She worked on that left knee for an extra little while, too, restoring the muscle around it. Then, to top it all off, she touched me where even my wife wouldn’t — massaging both of my feet.
Before I knew it, my time was up. I was so relaxed … 50 heavenly minutes. I then opted for 15 minutes of sauna serenity.
What’s especially nice about The Spa at the Del is the view — enjoy it on The Spa’s private veranda and infinity pool that overlooks the ocean. And make the most of the adjacent state-of-the-art fitness center, replete with personal trainers, weights, cardiovascular equipment, and a studio for various fitness classes. While not my cup of tea — even though Jenny would probably say I could use it — The Spa also offers yoga and meditation on the beach. Locals can even buy a “Club at The Del” membership, entitling them to all of the amenities.
And there’s more …
Villas and cottages at the brand-new Beach Village look just like miniature versions of the hotel itself. On the boardwalk just north of the hotel, these 35 whole-ownership, limited-term-use, two- and three-bedroom units feature red-shingled roofs and a coastal cottage style that blend seamlessly with the resort’s signature look. Each has breathtaking ocean views from spacious balconies and private terraces. Some even have their own private hot tub. All are completely furnished and well-appointed with oversized baths, marble floors in the restrooms, Sub-Zero refrigerators, stainless steel gourmet Wolf cooktops and built-in ovens, Bose surround sound systems, docking stations, wireless Internet, and large flat-panel televisions.
The pearl of the entire grounds, of course, is the world-renowned hotel that’s located in the heart of Coronado’s quaint restaurant and shopping district. The Del, as locals call it, has been the setting of several Hollywood movies and features a hall of history, various shops, and some outstanding restaurants.
The award-winning 1500 Ocean is the resort’s new signature restaurant that serves Southland coastal cuisine. Chef Jason Shaeffer has garnered rave reviews from the likes of Riviera Magazine and Wine Spectator. Other dining at the Del includes: the world-famous Crown Room with its crown-shaped chandeliers and sugar-pine ceiling that serves San Diego’s top Sunday brunch; Sheerwater with expansive outdoor dining terraces and giant fireplaces that offers California coastal cuisine; Babcock & Story Bar, which offers tropical drinks, California premier wines, espresso, and light fare in an oceanfront setting; plus a bakery, outdoor grill, poolside deli, Boardwalk Cafe, and on-the-beach bar.
I think I can get used to this place …
Scott Kramer is a freelance golf and travel writer based in Carlsbad, California.
HOTEL DEL CORONADO
Location: 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, California.
Age: 119 years.
Size: 28 acres.
Rooms: 679.
Vice president, general manager: Todd Shallan.
Director of club membership: Brian Miller.
Spa director: Alice Bergendorff.
Famous guests: 10 U.S. presidents, Babe Ruth, Marilyn Monroe, Charles Lindbergh, Thomas Edison, Oprah Winfrey, Clark Gable, Lauren Bacall, Judy Garland, Brad Pitt, Demi Moore, Frank Sinatra, Kirk Douglas, and many more.
Ghost: In 1892, a guest died in her room. Guests frequently cite ghostly happenings related to this woman. And, yes, people often request her room.
Amenities: A world-class spa and unique ocean-inspired therapies, two pools, fitness center with a full-time recreation staff, an array of activities including surfing lessons, biking, kayaking, sailing clinics, and surrey rides. Because this is a popular family resort, Tent City Kids’ Camp and Kids’ Craft programs run throughout the year. During the summer, teens can enjoy Surf Camp, Teen Lounge, and Flick & Float movie nights in the pool. Just a few blocks from the hotel is Coronado Municipal Golf Course, a local favorite that’s been around since 1957 and offers the ultimate views of the downtown San Diego skyline.
Web site: www.hoteldel.com
GASLAMP QUARTER
Nearly every major city has a downtown district that dominates the nightlife. Just across the bay from the Hotel del Coronado is San Diego’s rendition, coined the Gaslamp Quarter (www.gaslamp.org). Encompassing roughly 100 square blocks, “The Gaslamp” offers more than 125 restaurants, bars, playhouses, lots of shopping, and movie theaters. All seem to be perpetually busy. That’s partly because locals and visitors alike flock here. The Gaslamp is adjacent to the massive San Diego Convention Center, which attracts many trade shows throughout the year. One particularly popular destination is the Gaslamp Strip Club (www.cohnrestaurants.com). Don’t get the wrong idea — there are no clothes being shed there. It’s just a clever name for one of the most unique, best, and affordable steak houses in America. There’s no complaining about overcooked steaks, either, as you grill your own. Afterward, head a few streets over to J6bar (www.jsixsandiego.com), which is located on a 4th floor rooftop deck amid bright, electric color hues surrounding a large, lap-style pool and teak furniture under draped cabanas — it’s truly a unique atmosphere, especially when you enjoy one of the bar’s signature fresh-fruit drinks and take in the panoramic views of downtown and the bay. During baseball season, be sure to catch a San Diego Padres game at beautiful Petco Park, located at the far east end of the district.