Behind the scenes at the Celebrity Chef Tour.
By Louis Marroquin
Photography by Jon Neuschwander of Quad/Photo
“Food is our common ground, a universal experience.” — James Beard
Eight o’clock on a Friday night. Nearly 100 guests have been seated in the Tower Club’s elegant Columbia Room, high above downtown Dallas on the 48th floor of Thanksgiving Tower. The carefully choreographed waitstaff flows through the dining room, encircling a series of round tables as they present the first course of the Celebrity Chef Tour dinner. The tour, now in its third year, is a series of fine-dining experiences that pairs chefs from distinctive clubs and restaurants in a similar fashion to pairing food and wine, while at the same time benefiting the James Beard Foundation in its mission of culinary excellence.
This night’s seven-course meal is being prepared by the Tower Club’s new executive chef Bruce Ross (formerly of Seattle’s Columbia Tower Club and a veteran of two previous Celebrity Chef Tour events) and Chef Jason Weaver of the French Room at Dallas’ Adolphus hotel. Following Chef Jason’s arrival two years ago, the French Room was named “America’s best hotel restaurant” in the 2006 Zagat Survey. Clearly, the guests this evening are assured a gastronomic sensation of the highest order.
But what happens prior to that first plate being placed in front of that first guest? Planning for such a feast starts weeks, even months, earlier. In this case, it began several months earlier when a group of mystery diners from Yahoo!, one of the tour’s sponsors, decided the Tower Club bested the competition in the area, and was selected as the host club for a Celebrity Chef Tour event. From that moment, the planning escalated as the date of the event grew nearer. As for the actual food preparation, host chef Bruce and his celebrity chef counterpart Jason began prepping the meal the previous day — cutting vegetables, making sauces and mousses, anything that could be prepared beforehand and refrigerated or frozen. Private Clubs was allowed full access for the Tower Club event. Here are some highlights from a very busy, very appetizing day at the club.
12 p.m. As the kitchen swirls with lunchtime activity, Chef Bruce helps Chef Jason roll in a cart with equipment and pre-prepared ingredients from the French Room kitchen, conveniently located just two blocks away. The duo’s initial teamwork bodes well for a smooth partnership. A tall, solid blond, Chef Jason cuts an intimidating figure until approached and he reveals an accessible smile. “There can be a lot of ego in this business,” says the former Marine, “but in this case not at all. [Bruce] is easygoing, and I’m easygoing, so it just worked out.”
2 p.m. Lunch ends and preparation for the evening event begins in earnest. Chef Jason alternates chopping herbs while listening for buzzers indicating the bases for a miso custard appetizer are ready. When asked if he and Chef Bruce have worked together before, he looks up from his work with a wry grin and says, “Just met him.” Having agreed that they would alternate courses, the instant duo came up with the menu by talking on the phone and sharing e-mails. “No theme,” Chef Jason says. “Just good food. I tried for complementary flavors. If he has something with a strong flavor, I’ll follow it with something delicate.”
2:10 p.m. Across the kitchen, Chef Bruce salts the tenderloin to bring out the meat’s flavor. His open, friendly face is framed by dark, neatly coiffed hair and a trimmed goatee. Much of the menu, says the former Texan who only a month earlier had re-transplanted to the Lone Star State, was determined by what product was donated by tour sponsors. Certified Angus Beef, for instance, provided much of the product, including the tenderloin, and Hudson Valley Foie Gras donated the duck product. Can a chef learn from another chef in these “blind date” scenarios? “Sure you can,” he says. “You can always learn. Whether he has a better way of doing something. Or you can learn what not to do … not in this case, but I’ve had that happen.”
2:20 p.m. Contrary to what one might think, the chefs don’t merely come up with a menu, then supervise a staff that does the manual labor. These chefs have their hands in everything, from cutting chives to tenderizing meats to — in due time — plating up the entrées. Chef Bruce mixes a bordelaise sauce that will be served with the tenderloin and braised short rib-potato pave.
2:30 p.m. The dining room is completely cleared out and the buffet is torn down. Twelve 72-inch round tables are rolled in and placed according to the room map. Each table will seat eight, for a total of 96 guests. Not Chef Bruce’s biggest event though. He says he previously presented a Celebrity Chef Tour event for 225 with celebrity chef Ethan Stowell of Union in Seattle. “We ended up combining it with a private event. I asked Ethan if he’d be OK with it, and he said, ‘Sure, why not.’ So we served an extra 90 that night.” On this night, a banquet for 100 will take place simultaneously, but there won’t be any combining this time. The denim-clad guests at the western-themed rehearsal dinner are in distinct contrast with the elegantly attired Celebrity Chef guests. Welcome back to Texas, Chef Bruce!
2:45 p.m. Using a mallet, Chef Bruce flattens tuna between two sheets of plastic wrap for the bottom layer of the first course’s Tuna “Carpaccio” and Smoked Salmon Parfait. After freezing the tuna sheets to harden them a bit, he will cut them into medallions for a uniform presentation. “You don’t have to cut them like that,” he says. “It just looks good.”
3:15 p.m. Chef Bruce reviews the final menu presentation and the ribbons used to close the scrolled menus. Previously, the use of parchment had been nixed for the menus, since the flammable paper had ignited in the past when a guest tried to use the table candle for a reading light. By keeping the menus small and legible in mood lighting, he assures the only pyrotechnics will be the fireworks in the mouths of the diners.
3:30 p.m. The tables in the dining room are covered with gold-hued cloths to accent the gold-backed, cushioned chairs. A line of silverware and wine glasses are arranged at each place setting to increase the anticipation of the coming courses. Private events director Lynn McDaniel says she chose the color scheme to reflect the autumnal season, “and it looks good in the room.” After reviewing the sun-soaked room, she adds, “It looks a little monochromatic right now, but when the sun sets and the lights are dimmed, it looks great.”
4:30 p.m. Still working separate and alone, Chef Bruce and Chef Jason work diligently on several courses. Jason layers the apple preserves, then blue cheese mousse in tall shot glasses for the cheese course. “Preparation is key,” he says. “You really have to have all your ducks in a row.” In Chef Bruce’s case, he means that literally. Bruce sprays baking sheets and places tarts on them for the duck confit. The poached duck eggs that will be placed on top and provide a spectacular burst of flavor have been prepared in advance.
5:15 p.m. Three members of Chef Jason’s French Room staff arrive to help with the dinner. Suddenly the kitchen takes on a greater sense of urgency. Seemingly without instruction, but more likely a result of the two chefs’ preparation, the trio begins work on different courses — one begins cooking the skate, another the duck, and the other helps complete the various hors d’oeuvres. Throughout the kitchen, several small clusters of cooks are busily and silently at work.
5:40 p.m. The service staff gathers for a meeting in the dining room in front of the floor-to-ceiling windows facing north to downtown. A gorgeous fall sunset casts a watercolor-tinted glow on the room. It’s unfortunate the guests miss out on this appetizer. The two chefs go over the menu with the staff, discussing how each course is cooked, how long it’s cooked, how it’s served, and which wine it will be paired with. They tell the staff that there will be no salt or pepper at the tables. “If they want salt or pepper, have them come see me,” Chef Bruce says with a wink. “But only if they’re small,” Chef Jason deadpans.
6 p.m. One hour until guests arrive for the opening reception, where passed hors d’oeuvres will be served. Jason lines up ceramic spoons on a tray and begins constructing a delicious concoction of oyster and crabmeat, ceviche sauce, and blood orange aspic. Bruce stops by Jason’s station and samples the treat. He nods with satisfaction as he spouts, “Tastes good,” between chews. “OK, let’s serve ’em,” Jason says with a twinkle in his eye. This will be the extent of the chefs’ sustenance this day, a taste of skate here, a shot of gazpacho water there, making sure everything is up to standards before serving anything to the guests.
6:30 p.m. The lights are dimmed in the dining room and the centerpiece candles lighted, creating a peaceful ambience. But the mood in the kitchen is decidedly more active. The cooking staff, having worked separately throughout most of the afternoon, now congregates to work on whichever course is most immediate.
7 p.m. Arriving guests are ushered into the reception area. Throughout the next hour, the service staff gives guests a hint of the culinary delights ahead as they maneuver the room with trays offering the assorted hors d’oeuvres.
7:15 p.m. Plates are lined up two by two on several counters throughout the kitchen as the chefs prepare to plate up the first entrée.
7:30 p.m. Chef Bruce and Chef Jason make a quick round of the reception area, welcoming the guests and getting a brief respite from the kitchen.
7:40 p.m. Chef Jason stages his workstation with plastic containers housing the ingredients for his skate wing recipe, but as Chef Bruce begins plating the tuna carpaccio Jason comes to assist.
7:50 p.m. A staff member comes into the kitchen saying one guest has requested no meat. “What?” Bruce reacts with his customary smile. “The whole menu is meat.” Then, playing to the room, he quips: “OK, I quit! I can’t work in these conditions.” Laughs permeate the kitchen as the chefs calmly continue plating, with one serving of meatless improvisation. Luckily, the fish is OK for the guest.
8-10 p.m. As the dinner progresses, the chefs stay remarkably focused and prioritized. The well-choreographed assembly line merges seamlessly from course to course. The serving staff hits their marks with the entrées and the paired wines, assuring the guests enjoy a steady flow of flavors without being overwhelmed. Guests chat about each dish, sharing preferences and making new acquaintances. A Celebrity Chef Tour representative keeps the evening flowing with menu information and door prizes between courses.
10:30 p.m. After almost 12 straight hours in the kitchen, Chef Bruce and Chef Jason are greeted by enthusiastic applause as they stand at a podium at the front of the dining room to address their satisfied audience. Clearly tired, but pleased with the result, the duo that only just met that morning now functions as one unit, finishing each other’s sentences and delivering punch lines as if on cue. For one evening, these two distinct chefs and a roomful of guests from various backgrounds have found, as James Beard once said, a common ground in the universal experience of food.
CHEF BRUCE’S 5 TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL DINNER
1. Plan Ahead. There’s a big difference between a party of five and 500. Obviously, you can’t be as intricate with a bigger party. Make sure you have enough matching china, glasses, etc., to accommodate whatever size party you have.
2. Get Organized. Make sure you have all the product you’ll need. Look for what can be prepped ahead of time. Some things can be done the day before, or even earlier. If you work smart, dinner day should be easy.
3. Pay Attention to the Details. You don’t want to make a mistake and have to start over. With a big party, lost time can be crucial.
4. Be Flexible. Don’t be tied to the planned menu. If a product doesn’t come in on schedule, go with Plan B. Don’t let it get you down — just go with something else.
5. Just Have Fun!
THE MENU
Passed Hors D’oeuvres
Gazpacho water shooter
Roasted corn “cappuccino,” porcini dust
— Chef Bruce Ross
Miso custard, foie gras mousse, quince puree
Blue point oyster and crabmeat, ceviche sauce, blood orange aspic
— Chef Jason Weaver
Beringer Alluvium Blanc 2004 & TAZ Pinot Gris 2004
Dinner
Tuna “Carpaccio” and Smoked Salmon Parfait
Yuzu, wasabi tobiko, microgreens
— Chef Bruce Ross
St. Clement Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Foie Gras
Pecan crust, caramelized pumpkin, brioche French toast, chocolate port sauce
— Chef Jason Weaver
Beringer Nightingale 2003
Hudson Valley Duck Confit Tart
Roasted shallots, truffle duck stock reduction, frisee, poached duck egg
— Chef Bruce Ross
Etude Pinot Noir 2004
Skate Wing
Steel cut oat “risotto,” preserved lemon/oven-dried tomato salsa, crisp pancetta
— Chef Jason Weaver
Chateau St. Jean Robert Young Chardonnay 2004
Port Poached Certified Angus Beef Tenderloin
Braised short rib-potato pave, short rib jus, thumbelina carrots, maldon sea salt, micro celery
— Chef Bruce Ross
Chateau Souverain Winemakers Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Dessert
Pre Dessert
Apple preserves, blue cheese mousse
White Chocolate Risotto
Salted caramel ice cream
— Chef Jason Weaver
Beringer Dry Riesling 2005
CHEF BRUCE’S TUNA ‘CARPACCIO’ AND SMOKED SALMON PARFAIT
(with Yuzu, Wasabi Tobiko, and Microgreens)
“I’ve always enjoyed working with great sushi-quality tuna,” Chef Bruce says. “When asked to be a part of the Celebrity Chef Tour, I knew I wanted my first course to revolve around that beautiful fish. On a recent trip to Honolulu, I fell in love with tuna poke and ate it every chance I got. I wanted to do a more refined version of poke, so I created this dish. It uses traditional poke ingredients, but I added some new twists.”
TUNA ‘CARPACCIO’
6 ounces sushi grade tuna
Slice the tuna into four 1-1/2-ounce pieces. Place each slice of tuna between 2 sheets of lightly oiled waxed paper. Gently pound each tuna piece flat with a meat mallet or the side of a large meat cleaver, being careful not to tear holes in it, until at least 4 inches in diameter. The tuna should be nearly transparent. Stack the tuna on a plate and freeze for 30 minutes. Remove the tuna from the freezer. Carefully peel off the top layer of waxed paper from the carpaccio. Using a 3-1/2-inch round ring mold or cookie cutter, cut out perfect circles of tuna. On a jelly roll pan with a new piece of lightly oiled waxed paper large enough to hold all the tuna in a single layer, place the 4 portions of tuna carpaccio. Top with another piece of lightly oiled waxed paper and refrigerate. Save the tuna scraps for another use, such as tuna tartare.
SMOKED SALMON PARFAIT
10 ounces smoked salmon
2-1/4 cups heavy cream, divided
1/3 cup filtered water
6 sheets gelatin
Maldon sea salt
freshly ground white pepper
In a large saucepan, combine the salmon, half of the cream, and the water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat as soon as the mixture simmers. Let the salmon cool for 15 minutes. While the salmon is cooling, place the gelatin sheets in a bowl and cover with cold water and let bloom for 5 minutes.
In batches, blend the salmon and its cooking liquid until smooth. Strain each batch through a chinois into a large bowl. Lift the gelatin sheets from the water and squeeze the water out of them. Stir into the salmon puree until dissolved. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool to room temperature.
In a chilled bowl, beat the remaining heavy cream to stiff peaks. Gently fold into the salmon puree. Pour into a lightly oiled 8-by-8-inch cake pan. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
3 tablespoons yuzu juice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1-1/2 teaspoons wasabi tobiko caviar
assorted microgreens
extra virgin olive oil
Maldon sea salt
freshly ground pepper
Combine yuzu juice, soy sauce, and wasabi tobiko in a small bowl. Remove tuna carpaccio from the refrigerator and remove the waxed paper from the tuna and place on the center of each plate. With a pastry brush, brush the yuzu mixture on the tuna. Spoon the remaining yuzu marinade around the tuna. Using a 2-inch round ring mold or cookie cutter, cut out 4 portions of the smoked salmon parfait. Using a small metal spatula, gently lift the parfait and place in the center of the tuna carpaccio. In a small bowl, gently toss the microgreens with a dash of high-quality extra virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper. Garnish the top of each parfait with the microgreens.
Yield: 4 servings.
CHEF JASON’S FOIE GRAS
(with Pecan Crust, Brioche French Toast, Caramelized Pumpkin, and Chocolate Port Sauce)
“If I have one specialty, it is foie gras,” Chef Jason says. “Although expensive, and somewhat controversial, I consider it the number one food for true gastronomes. This preparation is truly special. I often change the fruit according to the seasons, but I always keep the French toast. If you have a once-in-a-lifetime occasion to celebrate, I encourage you to make this dish!”
REDUCTION SAUCE
3/4 cup port wine
3/4 cup high-quality chocolate
In a heavy-bottomed sauce pot, bring the port wine to a boil and remove from heat. Allow to cool briefly, then whisk in the chocolate. If necessary, add a bit more chocolate or a bit more wine to adjust the consistency. Set aside.
CARAMELIZED PUMPKIN JAM
1 cup pumpkin (peeled, seeds removed, and diced)
1 cup sugar
2 cups water
2 vanilla beans
Place pumpkin, sugar, and water in heavy-bottom sauce pot and turn on the heat. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer. With a paring knife, cut each vanilla bean in half lengthways, and scrape out the seeds. Place the seeds and pods in the pot and cook all together. Cook until the water is gone and the pumpkin is tender, about 45 minutes. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pods. Puree pumpkin in a blender. If necessary, add a bit of water to get the blender going. (To make the mixture even smoother, after blending you also can pass it through a tammy or strainer.) The jam will get thicker as it cools to room temperature. Reserve on the side, or chill in cooler to use another day. The jam will last for a week or more in the refrigerator.
FOIE GRAS
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 ounce heavy cream
3 eggs
4 slices of brioche bread
4 slices of foie gras (2 ounces each)
Maldon sea salt and fresh ground pepper
3 ounces toasted pecans, ground roughly
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk the cinnamon and cream together until the cinnamon is smooth. Whisk in the eggs. Cut the brioche toast to the approximate size of your foie gras (round or square, doesn’t matter, you choose). Heat a nonstick skillet to a medium heat and add a teaspoon of oil. Dip the brioche in the batter and place in the skillet. Brown the brioche on both sides, then remove from the pan and place on an oven-safe platter. Heat a second nonstick skillet to a high heat with no oil. Season the foie gras with Maldon salt and pepper, then brown both sides in the skillet. Remove the foie gras to the oven-safe plate and place on the brioche toast. Top the foie gras with the pecans and place in the oven for about 1 minute to “flash.” Cook the foie gras only until it no longer feels hard in the center when you give it a squeeze. It should be very soft.
To serve, place a pool or a decoration of the sauce on a plate, and top with the foie gras/brioche stack. Garnish with a bit of the pumpkin jam.
Yield: 4 servings.