And it’s not the same ol’ number.
By Patricia Baldwin
Photography by www.Britainonview.com and Dreamstime.
After St. Paul’s Cathedral burned down in the great London fire of 1666, King Charles II appointed Christopher Wren chief architect of the rebuilding project. As the story goes, one day Wren asked a workman to bring him a bit of stone. The man returned with a broken slab from an old tomb that was inscribed with the Latin word “Resurgam” — “I shall rise again.” The coincidence seemed prescient for the cathedral project, which Wren completed swiftly for that era, and also for Britain’s first city. Among leading world cities, London is experiencing a resurgence of cultural and economic importance. If you haven’t witnessed London’s rebirth in the 21st century, then it’s time for a visit … especially if you’re in search of luxury. Here are a few recent discoveries.
GASTROTOURING
Transplanted American Celia Brooks Brown is a passionate cook, food writer (six vegetarian cookbooks), and enthusiastic culinary tour guide. Follow her on one of her regularly scheduled taste tours (or book a private group tour) of London’s vibrant Notting Hill area and (if you can keep up with her) she’ll share local secrets most tourists will not encounter. Our group’s “gastrotour” started with coffee at Lisboa Patisserie on Golborne Road. In Le Marrakech market, we bought souvenir packages of Rasel Hanout, a Moroccan spice mixture that means (and is) “top shelf.” In Garcia’s Spanish deli, Celia schooled us in the differences between the popular Serrano ham and Jamón Ibérico, an aged meat from a black-footed pig that eats acorns. The half-day tour also included a three-course lunch at Books for Cooks, two wine tastings, shopping for a myriad of culinary treasures, and some poking around the street stalls of the Portobello Market. Her “absolute favorite” storefront: The Spice Shop just off the corner of Portobello and Blenheim Crescent. Alas, we did not explore the offerings of Les Couilles du Chien, but put this sophisticated antiques dealer up for an award in the “everything sounds better in French” category. (Translation: “The Dog’s Ballocks.” Corner of Wornington and Golborne roads, if you want to visit.) A cooking tip from Celia: Use a pinch of bicarbonate of soda when boiling (dry) beans to make them softer. www.celiabrooksbrown.com
MORE FOR FOODIES
Locals claimed that St. Alban on Regent Street was the winter’s hottest restaurant opening, and the lunchtime sighting of Irishman Pierce Brosnan definitely vouched for the eatery’s reputation. The review: This former Agent 007 still appeared licensed to kill. The menu? Oh, yeah … Creative and inspired by the flavors of Italy, Spain, and Portugal — kicked off with a plate of olives from Puglia and a great selection of bread. St. Alban is a sibling to the more traditional Wolseley café-restaurant on London’s famed Piccadilly boulevard. Another fun spot for a light meal: Try the Cichetti (Italian tapas) at Cecconi’s on Burlington Gardens. And for a quick pre-theater dinner, our group enjoyed Arbutus on Frith Street in Soho. Early in the year, the restaurant received a Michelin star, increasing the demand for its already difficult-to-secure tables. From Arbutus, it was a pleasant walk to the Adelphi Theatre for a performance of Evita. And, make sure your short list includes Amba Bar & Grill at the newly renovated May Fair Hotel, which provided an elegant setting for a Valentine’s Day dinner. The open kitchen adds a sense of theater to the preparation of classic English food (with a modern twist), while huge, glass fridges display the finest wines and champagnes.
EXTRAORDINARY WINE SHOP
Step through the door at 3 St. James’s Street and you step back three centuries. Family operated Berry Bros. & Rudd is worth a visit, whether you want to taste wine, buy wine, ship wine, learn about wine (check the Web site for classes and dinners), or sightsee. (Originally a supplier to London’s fashionable coffeehouses, the shop still boasts its giant coffee scales, now used more often than not to weigh celebrity customers.) The merchant also offers private label selections of wine and single malts, a wine club, a cellar plan, international shipping, and corporate and private entertaining. There’s even an outlet about an hour from London in Hampshire. And, of course, Berry Bros. & Rudd holds two Royal Warrants for H.M. The Queen and H.R.H. The Prince of Wales. In other words, impressive pedigrees for merchants and offerings alike. Still, marketing manager Chris Maybin says that all wine knowledge can be distilled into one simple question, “Is it good to drink?” www.bbr.com
TEA TIME
Motioning around the shop at 216 Strand, Stephen Twining poured our Keemun tea and noted, “This is where it all started.” As the 10th generation of the famed Twinings Tea dynasty, he recounted that, when Thomas Twining started selling tea to London society in 1706, the then-expensive beverage launched a new lifestyle trend — a point of differentiation amid the some 2,000 coffeehouses in London. “Tea became iconic,” Twining said. Fast-forward more than 300 years and 200 blends later, Twining presided over this afternoon tea master workshop with tips about how to get the most out of tea. The two keys are good quality water and good quality tea. If you are using a teapot, warm it with boiling water before making the tea. As a general guideline, if you are using loose tea, use one teaspoon for everyone taking tea and one teaspoon for the pot. “It depends upon your taste,” Twining said, adding that the ratio of tea to water, not brewing time, determines the intensity of the tea. The moment water hits the boiling point, use it for black tea; let water cool for three to four minutes for green tea. Reduce brewing time for tea bags, which Twining called a “convenience food.” He also encouraged us to experiment and to blend our own teas by mixing various loose teas. And if you are an iced tea fan, put tea bags into a jar of water and refrigerate for eight hours. Also, make ice cubes from tea so you don’t dilute the cold beverage. Earl Grey is the best-selling selection in both the United Kingdom and the United States. This day’s purchase: White tea and pomegranate. Finally, setting the record straight: It’s “afternoon tea” that’s the hot society invitation — not “high tea,” which used to be the evening meal for factory workers. www.twinings.com
PALACES GALORE
If you are going to visit a monarchy, you must visit a palace or two. Historic Royal Palaces is an independent charity (memberships available) that looks after the Tower of London, Hampton Court Palace, the Banqueting House, Kensington Palace, and Kew Palace. You can even beat the queues and buy your tickets in advance online. Through 2007, to mark the 10th anniversary of the death of Diana, Princess of Wales, Kensington Palace houses a major exhibition of photos (many never before displayed) taken of the Princess by the renowned photographer Mario Testino. www.hrp.org.uk
SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP
When literary titan Samuel Johnson (second most quoted person in the English language, after Shakespeare) said, “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life,” he surely must have been talking about shopping options — they are as big as London itself. And, that’s Big. Of course, there is Bond Street for designers, Savile Row for tailors, Oxford Street for Marks and Spencer, Regent Street for its “mile of style,” Covent Garden for one-off purchases, Knightsbridge for Harrods … how much time do you have? Just don’t miss Burlington Arcade, Britain’s very first shopping arcade, opened in 1819 and now undergoing a multimillion-pound renovation by new owners who promise a “six-star” shopping experience among its most unique retail mix of 47 shops offering a variety of luxury goods and accessories. Here, you find the Polistas flagship store that opened just before Christmas last year. (Other stores in Buenos Aires and St. Tropez.) If you have to ask about its apparel, you obviously are not an international polo player. Pickett has mirrored locations on both sides of the Arcade’s aisle, one for men, the other for women. Its “Pickett tab” is an increasingly definitive design feature on luggage, stud boxes, leather goods, and handbags. And, gentlemen, do not pass Church’s Shoes. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk
SPA SPELLS RELIEF
A spa treatment is a great solution to jet lag. And the May Fair Spa, located in the heart of the exclusive Mayfair area, offers a full complement of treatments in discreet surroundings. A tip: Arrive an hour prior to your treatment booking and enjoy the herbal sauna, aromatic steam room, four shower sensations, and a candlelit relaxation room. Gift vouchers can be purchased over the Internet. www.mayfairspa.com
CURTAIN CALL
London, of course, is synonymous with theater and entertainment. So is the name Keith Prowse. Remember it because Keith Prowse is an authorized ticket company for theater, sports events, concerts, festivals, theme parks and attractions, and special events worldwide. www.keithprowse.com
A DAY OUT
Beautiful countryside and historic towns lie within easy reach of the capital, and BritRail provides a quick and comfortable journey. Our group visited the World Heritage Site of Bath, a 90-minute rail trip from Paddington Station. Take a walking tour of the unique city to appreciate its rich Roman and Georgian heritage. But Bath is shaped by its water — the Celts worshipped at the hot springs, the Romans bathed in them, the Georgians erected magnificent buildings around them, and the Victorians sought “cures” in them. Last summer, when the stunning Thermae Bath Spa opened, the city, for the first time in more than a quarter of a century, became a full-fledged spa destination once again. The state-of-the-art spa uses the area’s natural, nutrient-rich, mineral water and also offers an assortment of signature treatments and massages. Guests also can bathe outside in the spa’s Cross Bath, which stands apart from the other facilities and which once stood as a worship sanctuary for the Celtic sun goddess Sul. www.visitbath.co.uk, www.thermaebathspa.com
TRAVEL NOTES
• For free maps, brochures, vacation-planning advice, and a wide selection of passes and transportation tickets, contact VisitBritain toll-free at 800.462.2748 or visit www.visitbritain.com/us.
• Watch for news from Eos Airlines, which made its debut in late 2005, about further expansion of premium-class, trans-Atlantic flights. Current service, between John F. Kennedy International Airport and London Stansted Airport, features 48 seats, each of which is a “lie-flat suite” that offers 21 square feet of personal space and guaranteed aisle access. www.eosairlines.com
• BritRail offers a first-class, four-day “FlexiPass” that is valid for unlimited rail travel on four nonconsecutive or consecutive days. A good deal, considering there are more than 18,000 daily train departures to 2,500 destinations in England, Scotland, and Wales. www.visitbritaindirect.com; www.britrail.com
• For business or pleasure in London, consider the 406-room, five-star May Fair Hotel, a West End historic hotel that just completed a $300 million renovation. Among the amenities: 10 new signature suites; 10 al fresco guest rooms featuring outdoor terraces; the largest Baccarat chandelier in Europe; London’s largest private theater; spa; Amba Bar and Grill; and the May Fair Bar (already a favorite with locals). radissonedwardian.co.uk/mayfair.html